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how do you fix headlight clearcoat?

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PlanZero

Proven Member
1,516
263
Aug 13, 2013
Easton, Pennsylvania
I recently got a pair of used OEM headlights. They're in good condition but the clear coat is deteriorating on one. I'm nervous about trying to sand the rest off and using polishing compound, especially since the other one is in mint condition. Any suggestions?
 
Just use something like the 3m headlight restore kit or similar (yes on the tooth paste as well it works) but whichever you do get some duplicolor wheel clear and spray it with that after "sanding" to protect the plastic from turning again. It will eventually do it again even with the clear but mine turned back within a few months when I hadn't coated it. Almost a year right now and still glossy. :)
 
Ive used the toothpaste trick before,but only on yellowing/ cloudy lenses. On this, the actual clear coat finish is peeling off, as it has done on my previous dsms. will the 3m/ duplicolor technique work, and should i use it on both headlights even though one is fine?
 
Start off with a fine grit sand paper, work your way down if it doesn't cut enough, then work your way back up. I've gone as low as 400 grit and you'd never know. Finish with polishing compound on a buffing wheel.
 
Just sand (maybe a light polish) and a few coats of a good plastic clearcoat. Not too difficult...
 
Sand/polish like others have said. For small stuff some cleaning powder (same as used for kitchens and such) works nicely. It's mildly abrasive and the soap part of it helps remove dirt and oils. Do not flame polish. While flame polishing is much quicker than mechanical polishing, it will cause irreparable damage to the clear plastic of headlight if done wrong.
 
Ok. This really isn't that tough. Take a bucket of soapy water (car wash, dawn, whatever). Drop in 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and a 3000 trizact paper and allow to soak for 10 minutes (Buy this at an autoparts store). Keep the light wet! Start with the 600. Sand the headlight alternating directions from left to right to up and down as you switch between grits. Once completed, the light should look almost clear. Take your compound and polish out the rest of the scratches caused by sanding.

Now you have a nice shiny light. How do you keep it that way? That's the trick...You have many expensive options and one really cheap one. Expensive, purchase a headlight sealant such as Opti-Lens.

Cheap way, buy some minwax helmsman spar urethane clear gloss and cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits in a cup (home depot). Take a folded scotts blue paper towel and fold till you get down to about a 2" strip. Dip the towel in the well mixed solution and ring out. Slowly (starting at the top of the light) smooth the solution onto the headlight. You want to be careful not to add bubbles. Smooth application is key. If you screw up, wipe the light with 100% mineral spirits to remove and start over. The solution will dry to the touch in about 10-15 minutes. It will lay flat as its designed to do so. It has UV blockers in it and will keep the light from yellowing for over a year. Total cost is about $15.

Here is an after shot:

http://i.imgur.com/8zbqk.jpg

Detail.
 
Thanks a lot for all the input. I'm gonna try detail's method as soon as possible and I'll post before and after pics when done. Stupid question - is it necessary to remove the headlights for this operation?
 
Im a bit confused as why there is clearcoat on a headlight anyway? is this a standard proceedure? It should be simply highly polished clear plastic.
 
Get you some 2000 grit sand paper. Work it down and smooth. then go back with a buffer and some 3M polishing compound. Wallah. It's magic...
 
Detail was spot on with his answer. And it is not necessary to remove the headlights. (I know it can be a PITA if they havent been taken off before) Just be sure to mask off the area underneath the headlights so you dont get anything on the paint. Even then it would remove the same with mineral spirits, but better not to get the mineral spirits on your car if you can avoid it.
 
Thanks a lot for all the input. I'm gonna try detail's method as soon as possible and I'll post before and after pics when done. Stupid question - is it necessary to remove the headlights for this operation?

No. Obviously open your hood. Take some painters tape, tape around the bumper where the headlight is. Keep in mind while you are polishing you'll tend to overshoot the lens and thus its important to protect your bumper.

But, it is about 100x easier to clean and coat with the headlight in your lap. You can hit all the edges better and apply more even pressure IMO.

Im a bit confused as why there is clearcoat on a headlight anyway? is this a standard proceedure? It should be simply highly polished clear plastic.

The plastic originally had it. Overtime sun, bugs, dirt wore down that outer layer of plastic. Thus the yellow nastiness you see. After you polish all that crap off you are left with a clean lens. But if you don't protect that it will re-yellow quickly. Much like paint. You wouldn't polish your car and then not protect it with a wax or sealant.
 
Start off with a fine grit sand paper, work your way down if it doesn't cut enough, then work your way back up. I've gone as low as 400 grit and you'd never know. Finish with polishing compound on a buffing wheel.

This.

After apply a film like Lamin-X to keep them protected so you don't have to sand and buff again in the near future.
 
rain x headlight restore kit. its the cheapest one, but its worked the best for me. mothers and 3m didn't have the wet sanding pads that make it just about new
 
That is the best advise IMO (Blurred Talon). I've done it several times- with clear coat (peeled off pretty quick and is even more yellow now than before), without (just a sand and buff- came out better than with clear coat but is getting yellowish again) and I do have 2 good lamps laying around so will try the film method now.
 
i would advise against it. its the cheap way out and it doesn't fix the problem. take some time and wet sand them. you'll get them looking just like new like I've done with my set. mothers or 3m start first 4 wet sanding pads, then go to the rain x 3 sanding pads. I've had the best outcome with the rain x kit. its the cheapest and worked the best.
 
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