What do you mean it doesn't work? If the key goes in, but doesn't turn, your cylinders might just be seized. When I bought my car, I couldn't lock/unlock the driver's door or hatch. I doubted that the door/hatch or lock cylinders were swapped so I pulled them out of the car. The key worked fine but the tumblers were seized.

Here is a link to a 3si wiki about fixing them.

I also have pictures and info from when I did it. I've posted them on two other forums. I'll post it below.

I would try that first before assuming it's the key. Start with the hatch. That lock cylinder is much easier to remove. The doors aren't too hard to remove but they're a bi*** to get back in.

Hatch lock before CLR (this one most of the tumblers still moved):

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Driver's lock after CLR and a rinse before disassembly:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hatch lock pieces before cleaning:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Driver's lock after cleaning and ready for grease + assembly:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can see where I ground down tumbler #1 and #3 to make them flush. I believe there was one on the other side too:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Just another view of the ground tumblers:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Reassembled and ready for installation:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Click to expand...

Yeah you can get a brand new key made at the Mitsubishi dealership by just giving them your vin number. And it only costs like 15 dollars or something like that

If you put an NRA sticker on your car you'll never have another problem

Just re-key the lock yourself. Very simple.

Sounds like someone swapped the steering column and didn't change the lock cylinders in the doors or hatch.

It's tedious work, but very do-able to re-key them yourself

OR

Pull one of the door cylinders and take it , and the ignition cylinder, to a locksmith, and have him rekey the ignition switch to match the door key.

Man I never knew that there were so many others that had the same problem. I will start with the NRA sticker!!! But seriously, thanks everyone. I am sure I can do it myself, just needed a little direction. My appreciation to all!!!

I just recently had a key made at the Mitsubishi dealership. I think they charged me $12 for the key.

pindlepiper, did you have to provide proof of ownership? My car is down with a rod issue so its a good time to get the key done. Title? Anything else? Thanks a lot.

when I had a new key made after loosing a key, I had to have my full VIN number, and my registration. that's only good if your cars got the original ignition lock cylinder. mine was.
good luck mate.

If it's a 1g, you can take the passenger side door lock to Ace Unlocks or one of those places that come when you lock your keys in your car. There is a number on it that they can use to make a key. The 2g may have it as well. I just took the whole handle assembly since I temporarily lost my key. I paid $20. Found my key a couple of days later, too. When I first bought the car, they actually drove out to me to make the keys on site. It was a repo, so I didn't get any keys with it. I don't remember him taking the handle out then, but that was a long time ago.

Popping the tumbler assembly out of the rear hatch area is more easier than doing the door.

My driver`s door wouldn`t work. So, I installed a remote keyless entry for about $25. Much more convenient than a key.

Yes I did went to Chrysler got it done right on the spot for $20 bucks.

DSM1G90 said:

Popping the tumbler assembly out of the rear hatch area is more easier than doing the door.

Click to expand...

Was the tag on the hatch lock as well? From what I have seen, only the passenger side has the code on it. I only have my car and what I have read to go on, though. If you have seen it on the other locks, that would be good to know.

Was going to have the car in JNZtuning for a couple things, so I gave them the VIN and when I got there, I was given a brand new working key.

estoyaqui30 said:

Was going to have the car in JNZtuning for a couple things, so I gave them the VIN and when I got there, I was given a brand new working key.

Click to expand...

Man, I wish I were close enough to stop by there. It would be so great to see in person all of the people that I talk to on the phone so much. I'm pretty jealous!

I stocked up on key blanks from JNZ when I bought a bunch of other OE parts from there and cut them myself. I'm really enjoying having a brand new key!

Yeah, Josh and Paul are very helpful. Great guys.

nelliot500, thank for the pictorial. I FINALLY got the door locks to work, with alot of patience and pbblaster but the hatch will need taken apart so your article is going to be a lifesaver. If you have anymore tips for me before I tear into it, please throw them my way so I can get that one working too. I want it to work just in case the hatch release cable ever breaks, as I keep my tools back there now since all of my stuff got stolen at the race track a couple months ago. Would hate to not be able to get to them if I had a problem. I appreciate EVERBODY's replies and suggestions and help, thank you all. Marty

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

nelliot500, thank for the pictorial. I FINALLY got the door locks to work, with alot of patience and pbblaster but the hatch will need taken apart so your article is going to be a lifesaver. If you have anymore tips for me before I tear into it, please throw them my way so I can get that one working too. I want it to work just in case the hatch release cable ever breaks, as I keep my tools back there now since all of my stuff got stolen at the race track a couple months ago. Would hate to not be able to get to them if I had a problem. I appreciate EVERBODY's replies and suggestions and help, thank you all. Marty

Click to expand...

Sorry for the late reply. My wife and I had a baby August 2 so we've been pretty busy. BTW, using PB Blaster in the lock isn't a great idea. It's going to collect dirt/dust that way. You want a bottle of spray graphite (PB Blaster makes one) instead.

The 3si wiki is pretty thorough. I do know that it seems really confusing until you actually take out the lock cylinder, have it in your hands, and watch how it works when you put the key in. When you remove the tumblers, make sure you keep them in order. If you're still having issues once everything is cleaned up and back together, the issue could be one or more of the tumblers still sticking up a little too far into the cylinder body. You'll have to grind them down a bit to be flush with the cylinder. You can see a picture where I did that.

Thanks man and CONGRATS!!!! I will grab some PB Graphite and prolly clean the cylinders out with some brake cleaner now that they function then let them dry and hit them with the graphite. I'll make sure I look at the 3si wiki real good. I have had locks apart before, but I will refresh my old mind again. The pictorial is AWSOME!!! Again, CONGRATS on the new one!!!