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1G N/T best $1000 worth of upgrades? not doing a T swap

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Dirt Eagle

Proven Member
60
0
Mar 27, 2014
San Clemente, California
Typical newbie ? but looking for opinions not advice ... Around $1000 to spend and want to do a stroker but haven't heard of a single n/t doing a stroker build (yes i know it would cost around 2000 with a kit but I'm talking if I have the crank already) ANYWAY... Im looking to spend about $1000 and trying to get some opinions.

TAKE NOTE: ONLY a goal of 165hp and bumping the torque up to around 150 ft/lbs... not building a monster here

DIRT TRACK CAR!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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I have to agree with arrowhead. you need all of the compression that you can get. mill the head as much as physically possible(.100 or more). you will definitely need adj. cam gears after doing this. Check to see how much you can deck the block. you want to get as close to zero deck as possible. While you search for custom domed pistons, keep in mind that they might not help enough to justify the cost. youll be better off milling and then ultimately building a budget stroker. Get the machining done and clay the motor as a precaution. remember to change to cooler fuel with compression. you dont want to be running that hot unleaded with your high compression motor.
 
I have done a lot of research about high comp pistons with just about all the manufacturers, Probe , JE, Wiseco, Arias, etc. no one offers anything like what you and I would need, true milling head, decking block, thinner gasket will bring compression up, but it would also bring a myriad of issues that can be resolved, but it would bring the cost of the project higher, all the above should be done only as part of engine prep and a little more comp will be the extra.
You need to start with a higher base, again look into the 64-63 combo, this would be a lot cheaper than
getting custom pistons made, also keep in mind that since this a race car it will be abused more than a regular car, so therefore when I have had to purchase pistons, it is a better option to buy 2 sets for that unexpected day when one would fail and you have to wait maybe months to get another set made, so there goes your season.
 
Ive ran the Turbo awd trans in my fwd before. It does work. But the ratio on lower hp car causes mph to suffer in the 1/4. The N/A fwd trans has a decent ratio as is. The turbo fwd trans has the best ratio of them all.
 
Not on an eclipse. But the same rules still apply. I've raised comp on a motor by over a full two points by milling the head, adj cam gears, claying the domes on the head and cutting valve reliefs in the pistons, taking a mls gasket and separating it to only the two outside layers with copper gasket spray (the ones with the embossed high spots to seal around everything)

Had 11.5 pistons, ended up at 13.1:1, if there were zero gasket it would have been around 13.5+ comp.

Motor ran strong and I beat the piss out of it.

I know this isn't 4g63nt specific, but it gives you ideas to what you can do outside of a full stroker rebuild.
 
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+1 ^^ exactly what i was getting at. I did this as well on mustang/pinto motors. Just not sure of the physical limits on the 4g63. I try to be careful of what suggest specifically
 
A hybrid? Please do your research before you post nonsense like this. ^^^^^

not too get off topic, but why is this "nonsense"...? using one engines short block and bolting anothers head on it, dont not make it a "stroker", but a hybrid of the two motors...this is covered in many threads on this site.

perhaps you mis-understood me when i stated hybrid, thinking i meant some prius POS...

no need to be rude, and i have done plenty of research.
 
I have done a lot of research about high comp pistons with just about all the manufacturers, Probe , JE, Wiseco, Arias, etc. no one offers anything like what you and I would need, true milling head, decking block, thinner gasket will bring compression up, but it would also bring a myriad of issues that can be resolved, but it would bring the cost of the project higher, all the above should be done only as part of engine prep and a little more comp will be the extra.
You need to start with a higher base, again look into the 64-63 combo, this would be a lot cheaper than
getting custom pistons made, also keep in mind that since this a race car it will be abused more than a regular car, so therefore when I have had to purchase pistons, it is a better option to buy 2 sets for that unexpected day when one would fail and you have to wait maybe months to get another set made, so there goes your season.

Now thinking about doing this! Did a different set up that has been working great but its time to get those torque numbers up! What galant can i pull the 64 out of. Everyone gives the same bull shit answer to google ... well i have but no one gives exact years. OR ANYONE who has tried it and assured that the transmission will bolt up[DOUBLEPOST=1409839818][/DOUBLEPOST]
hmm, ive never run into that problem. at least not on similar generations of motors/trans. a 3rd gen 4gxx motor i could see a problem.

the flywheels/clutchs are different between the two, but i was under the impression that turbo/non turbo trans could be swapped no prob. i may have to try some personal swapping here...



why would that be so out of the question? if you found a good running 4g64, and had a good 4g63 head on it, i dont see why you could easily be into it 1k or less is you were savvy and patient when looking for stuff. (granted, this doesnt make it a "stroker", but a "hybrid")
Same question as above what years of galant can i pull the 64 out of?[DOUBLEPOST=1409839899][/DOUBLEPOST]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine

Is this correct? Does the tranny bolt up direct?
 
6-bolt 64s only came in like two or three years. I think it was 89-91 or 90-91. Then there is the G4CS which is 6-bolt 2.4l out of the sonota 89-90
 
If sourcing a 64 at the moment is a problem, another option would be to go with a set of SOHC pistons for a 63, they are inexpensive and will also bump your compression, you should always keep track of the clearances.
The 64/63 combo, or the 63 sohc piston would be cheapest without going to aftermarket piston.
I have also read the Galant piston has slight higher comp (63)
 
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