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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada, Manitoba_Canada
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Replaced the CPS and the car runs beautifully but I'm getting a slight ticking which I'm guessing is the trigger plate being slightly bent. Would I be okay running it cause I really don't have the tools to remove the timing belt or could I try to bend the trigger plate some?
 
Could be lifter tick. Could also be the trigger plate.. Rotate the engine by hand and inspect the plate to see if it is making contact. Im pretty positive its not but I could be wrong. Crank sensors are easily destroyed.
I know I have the all so common lifter tick, but this tick is for sure the trigger plate, its a very very light tick could I just let it be until my next timing belt job?
 
Hammer, punch, steel bar. Bend it back.

Or, if you dont want to take off the belt, you could get a little torch, heat up the area and bend it back slightly. Or you can just replace it.
Best way: Replace it
Dsm way: Torch it

You decide.
 
Fix it now or the CPS will be destroyed again. Pull the timing covers, bend back into place, turn the car on to test your fix, then put the timing covers back on if all is well. Worst case, you pull the timing belt and timing pulley and replace the plate altogether.
 
I'm about to start the process of bending it back BUT I have another problem.... My idle is a little rough and is idling at around 650-700 rpm and I'm only pulling 14 lb of vacuum, wot is fine and it pulls hard, my wastegate is set at 15 psi but as I approach redline it falls to about 11. Everything was fine before the cps failed, I'm also getting a whining noise from the intake manifold area at idle. Since my B/S belt is now gone should the car sound a little higher pitched as I approach 6-7k rpm?
 
Wait, so you didn't replace the b/s belt?
That means your rear balance shaft is the only one spinning. Notice any weird vibrations? They're designed to run tandem (which is why we get a stubby shaft on the rear and either leave the front in with no belt or take it out completely). Unfortunately, that doesn't explain your noise issue unless it is indirectly related from the higher vertical/horizontal vibrations you should be feeling from spinning just one shaft.

Did you make sure you didn't jump timing? (i.e. align all the timing marks to insure proper mechanical timing)
 
help... my car sucked in water few wks ago, I dried it out. changed the oil, spark plugs, dried the turbo intake, compression test, everything, the engine turns 0 knock, I have spark on all cyls. fuel and compression. shot all electronics and still my car wont fire up. any points and ideas I should be looking for. timing is perfect and I also bypassed the maf sensor to eliminate that issue. help me pls? I'm on a stand still with my 99 eclipse. 99 GST m/t. -4g down :(
 
I've been doing quite a bit of research on this, and can't find too much info on this. Basically, I'm in the market to buying another DSM. I found one local to me, but it's not running. Well, it does run, but you have to replace the coil pack every day.

The person selling it says that they replaced the alternator with a higher amperage one, and that could be the cause. I'm not too sure if that would cause it to burn out the coil packs?

What steps would you all take on this type of problem? Oh, it cranks over too.

I have read that it could possibly be the power transistor, ECU, or maybe a short in the wiring. Just need a little help is all.
 
The PTU should limit the current going to the coils @ 6-7A. A higher voltage output at the alternator might speed that up a little, but not significantly.

When it is running, was it actually running good? If it is killing packs that quickly, I'd expect there to be some other symptoms. Do both coils in the pack go bad, or just one? How are they certain it is the pack? Are they testing the pack?
 
Coil packs can only burnt out if:
1) The alt is putting out too high a voltage, like > 18v [due to a bad regulator or it's voltage sensing wire is not connected at the correct place (should be at battery through a fuse)]. The higher amperage of the alt has nothing to do with anything.
2) The coil is a very cheap one that can't withstand the heat in the engine bay.
3) The power transistor has a short in it which keeps current flowing all the time through the coil (when key is on) - however the engine would not run on at least 2 cylinders then. This would heat up the coil but again, any decent quality coil should be able to handle this (unless you maybe left it on for 5 hours without engine running).
 
Also corroded or cracked wires, and or damaged wire connectors can also cause the car to kill a coil pack [or make it act like it is] remove the transistor wire connector and inspect it for burn marks or any signs of corrosion do the same with the coil pack.

It might be a bad or partially bad ecu or damaged ecu wiring...
 
My opinion would be stay clear i bought my old 1g with a know wiring problem biggest headache in the world everytime i turned around i was frying parts melting wiresjust a total disaster and i tryed converting to 91+ harness (car was 90) and it was never right needless to say the car is now in the scrap yard somewhere a guy bought it to part it as it was a fully built car
 
Some good things to check, and I appreciate it. Apparently it's cylinder 1 and 4 that go out each time on the coil pack. Now, I'm not sure if a cheaper coil pack was used. But, it was while he was driving the vehicle when it actually stopped working. I'm thinking that it's probably the alternator like what luv2rallye said, it might be putting out too many volts and frying it. What say everyone else?
 
Ok so here's my story, my stock motor in my 1999 gsx decided to go on me one random day while driving down the highway but it didn't really come as a surprise because it had been showing crankwalk symptoms for a few months so I was already in money saving mode and was able to get a really good deal on a fully built 6 bolt block with 2g head shortly after. Anyway I scooped that up, read tons and tons of tech articles about the swap and eventually did it and everything went smoothly up until I went to start it and I'm getting no crank at all. I can hear the fuel pump when I crank the car but other than that im getting nothing. I checked all my connections with a voltmeter and they all appear good. We were actually able to get the car to start by manually powering the starter but it won't via the ignition so I don't know what I'm doing wrong. By the way I'm using a black top cas with RRE's harness. I spliced the white wire into the blue wire from the 2g cas connector then plugged one end into the 2g crank connector and one into the back top cas like it says on their website. So any ideas guys??? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 
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