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Autocross Build Project Solo Monster: 97 Talon AWD

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Scott McIntyre

DSM Wiseman
309
43
Mar 15, 2002
Halifax, NS_Canada
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Backstory:

September 2011, I’m running in a 2-day Time Attack competition. During my first timed session, on my second hot lap the turbo lets go.



The exhaust wheel shears off the shaft and flies halfway out my exhaust. Both my radiator fans melted. And the vacuum hose of my exhaust crankcase evacuation system blew apart from a failed exhaust check valve.

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Towed the car home, shoved it into the garage, and there it sat for two years collecting dust while I played on iRacing. ;)


Present Day:

With the National AutoSlalom Championship coming to my region next summer, it’s time to finally fix the Talon and bring it out of hibernation.

Compression & leak-down tests suggests that I have a burnt exhaust valve. It would explain the turbo failure and the overheating issues I was experiencing. So in addition to replacing the blown turbo, I need to rebuild the head.


The Plan:

First the turbo. I want something that will spool fast for autoslalom, yet produce good power for time attack. A Forced Performance 68HTA turbo looks like it’ll fit the bill nicely. It flows up to 51lb/min and should easily produce 400+HP to the wheels. A nice upgrade over my previous FP Big28.

Next the head. I priced all the individual parts to rebuild the head and the cost of getting Armstrongs (local machine shop) to put it all together, but quickly discovered that it’s really not a whole lot cheaper than sending the head to a highly respected builder in the US and have him work his magic on it. So I’m just gonna send it to him.

I’ll also get him to install a Kiggly Racing HLA Pressure Regulator, to help keep oil in the pan and prevent it from getting stacked up in the head.

In addition to the turbo & head rebuild, I also need:
  • J-Pipe for FMIC
  • Tubular O2 Housing
  • Turbo Oil Feed & Retun Lines
  • Prothane Motor Mounts
  • Polyurethane Roll Stops
  • Replace / Repair Radiator Fans
  • Replace Melted Fan Connectors

I have an Mitsubishi EVO3 intake manifold sitting on my shelf, so I’ll take this opportunity to install that plus a 60mm 1GNT Throttle Body.

It has come to my attention that my Cusco Tarmac Center Differential is prone to failure, so I need to pull it out and inspect it for wear; possibly needing to replace it with a 4-spider OEM upgrade.

Also, I recently learned that my EVO8 rear differential is prone to failure with repeated launches, so I will also need to pull it out for inspection, and possibly install a TRE Differential Side Cover upgrade. Maybe toss in a Weir MAXGRIP LSD Kit while I'm in there.

And of course, there is my annual pre-season routine of pulling all the suspension off, inspecting and lubricating all the polyurethane bushings, inspecting all the spherical bearings, etc.

Then there is my Goodyear Eagle RS DOT r-comp tires, which are barely used but will be going on 3-years old next season and likely hard as rocks. They’re weren’t that great in autoslalom to begin with (being the road race compound), and will only be worse with age. So I’ll need to replace them with some fresh r-comps.

There’s lots more, but that is all I’ll list for now. I’ll post lots of photos and such once I get into the build.

To be continued...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I definitely be keeping an eye on this journal. I love autocross and road racing builds!
 
Here's a list of some parts I've collected...

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• FP 68HTA Turbo
• Turbo Oil Return Line
• Tubular O2 Housing (Recirculated)
• J-Pipe for FMIC (aluminum)
• Tubular Rear Upper Control Arms
• Head & Intake Manifold Gaskets
• ARP L19 Head Studs
• O2 Housing & Thermostat Gaskets
• Prothane Motor Mounts
• Porto 90A Polyurethane Engine Roll Stops​
 
Not much of an update. I got an intake manifold from a Mitsubishi RVR. It's a direct bolt on but has shorter runners which yields a bit more top-end power. Luckily it came with the original ignition coil pack, so I don't need to fabricate a bracket for my original coil pack (since they're different).

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Also slightly rolled my rear fenders. Not that my steamroller tires will tuck under the fenders, but there is a sharp lip on the inside that did make slight contact (in addition to the fender edge).

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Gathered up some more parts...

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• Innovate Wide Band Oxygen Sensor (spare)
• SPC Adjustable Balljoint (spare)
• Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
• Delphi 1000cc Fuel Injectors
• Aeromotive 340 Stealth Electric Fuel Pump
• G-FORCE Racing FIA/SFI Camlock Belt
• Curt Brown Racing 4G63 Cylinder Head
Almost have most everything I need to get the car ready.
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Got the last bits I need for the build...

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• Topline Lifters (Hydraulic Lash Adjusters)
• Radiator Fan Connectors (my originals are melted blobs)
• AFPR Outlet Fitting for Stock Fuel Hose
• Fuel Rail Adapter Fitting -6AN
• Pro X One Foldable Shop Crane
• Torin Engine Stand
• Motomaster Engine Leveler​

Time to pull the engine. :)
 
Parts keep coming in... This time it's Adam Porto solid aluminum rear subframe bushings.

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Started working on pulling the engine. This is how slow I am... 4 hours with a helper and I only have the axles out, fluids drained, electrical connectors off (and labeled), and most of the accessory removed.
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Engine crane & stand are unboxed and setup.

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When I was removing the coolant lines, I notice this creamy sludge in the hose...

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The coolant drained from the radiator looked clean. Could that be a sign of a blown head gasket? Guess I'll find out soon enough.

When I drained the oil from the pan, it looked nice & clean. It should have since it only had about 1km on it (previous oil looked fine too). However, when I disconnected the external oil cooler, its lines were full to creamy sludge as well. WTF
 
Finally got the engine out. Told you I was slow. Had a buddy come over to lend a hand.

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Pulled the transmission off, then the clutch & flywheel, only to discover that I did not have the right size bolts to attach the engine stand. Will run out today to pick some up. But in the meantime, my buddy was concerned that the crane might leak down and drop my engine on the floor. So we devised a support system with whatever we could find on-hand. LOL

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Pictures aren't so great due to all the clutter in the background, but you get the gist of it. :)
 
what check valve were you using? assuming the pictures of the catch can was replacing the exhaust check valve? and how many miles did you have on the check valve before it failed? considering going with the exhaust check valve instead of a catch can set up.
 
I used a Moroso crankcase evacuation (exhaust scavenging) system PLUS two Home Depot Racing (HDR) catch cans...

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My valve cover has two -10AN fittings. One went to the Moroso exhaust check valve in the downpipe. The other went to one of my HDR catch cans (which is routed back to the intake pipe). I also retained my stock PCV valve, which went into my second HDR catch can, then to the intake manifold (within an inline check valve).
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My theory was that I'd get the best of both (all?) worlds. Both the exhaust & intake pipes would evacuate crankcase pressure under load, and the PCV would evacuate under cruise / off throttle.

However, what ended up happening is the Moroso exhaust check valve failed (likely due to the same reason my turbo exhaust wheel failed... heat ) and ended up blowing exhaust into my value cover before the hose melted & burst. :ohdamn:

I've since abandoned the exhaust scavenging system. I may revisit it sometime down the road (only need a new $30 valve). If I do try it again, next time I'll hook up a vacuum / boost gauge to see if it actually works. I have my doubts.

I only ran the system a few months.



 
I still own it. It's been sitting in the garage with the engine out since my last post. 😞
Eventually I'll get it back together and on the track. Haven't given up on it!
Wow, since the last post in this thread? Or your last post in the forum? Regardless, I know how that goes all too well. :(
 
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