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2G Auto GS-T worth it?

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805LegendDSM

10+ Year Contributor
84
1
Apr 14, 2011
Oxnard, California
This may been posted before...but I'm here with my own question...

I have a 96' eclipse GS-T completely stock, But has 280k miles ...

I want a good, Street Drag car...as in , a car strictly for the straights, but full interior.

I don't want a race car drag car, because i have a GST ...FWD is laughable everywhere I go ...

I searched and I'm having so much trouble finding a similar setup, numbers, power or even charts.

I decided to go for a 20G setup, the list of parts is exactly what I want.

20G turbo
FP manifold
100-150 shot ZEX
GODSPEED FMIC
HKS ssqv
Hard UICP
HKS 272 Cams
ADjustable Cam gears
Megan down pipe
Magnaflow catback
No cat
255 fuel pump
660cc injectors
GM MAFT
Fuel pressure regulator.

Turbo timer
Blox Boost controller
DSMLink.
Power goals anywhere above 350

(As for transmission upgrades never really gotten there yet, I hear there's a lot of updgrades and mods to expand the life of the auto tranny but didn't want to step in there just yet. Maybe I wanna build this setup and blow my auto tranny to have an excuse to do a 5spd swap)

350whp might be a better achieved with a 16g but I seriously want a 20g to have enough power to spare since I'm an automatic.

I had a black GST stock motor with a Big evo 3 16g setup and I got 233 whp...on automatic. Fun car to drive but shitty tune, months later Rod knock and boom.

Why auto? Well...why not? ...but seriously that's what I ended up gettig, I bought this gst from a kid for 700 dollars, he gave up on it I restored it...and it only took 80 dollars to get her running perfect.

But after my dream of having this build started I had this long sudden change of heart and I'm hoping maybe you guys can talk me back into it. Or help me make my decision . I stopped and now literally considering to sell my auto GST and buy either a 5spd or a stock GSX...but what I'm afraid of doing is ..selling my car and not buying another DSM and quitting the scene.
 
^^WTF I have not seen this yet im ashamed .... Don't let no one change your mind, if you want to do fwd auto drag car that's great! but I would recommend if you want more power later on to get bigger injectors, not a big fan of nos (if that's what you was putting down) maybe methanol but hey this isn't my build its yours. FWD might be laughable (where you live like you said) but you can always put people in their place when you lay it down. You are headed in the right direction on mods and what you want to do so keep it up!
 
Like stated above, if you are already planning link, at LEAST get some 1000 cc injectors. They would be very versatile with the link platform, and you wouldn't have to worry about injector till you hit 500+. Where as the 660's are a mild 300 hp goal.

But! Being a fwd brother myself, sure, on street tires first and second gear are a joke. But hittin third gear and feeling that jerk of power... lets just say, throw some slicks on it at the track and see if you start snappin axles... haha! Fwd over awd is just a mind set. The fwd guys know how to throw it down, and with more skill. Check out the fwd drag thread. Serious guys breaking 9's over there. Its all about how much you want to stick it to the nay sayers
 
I'm blown away, just four replies and I cannot believe the info I just received , and that DSM brought to us by DSport is one amazing machine...and 1000cc will definitely do..and thank you all..


I'll continue this build for sure.
 
Ha! Glad to hear your enthusiasm!

The main point I think all the people (3) of this thread are getting at, is it can be as fast as you want it... within reason of course. The auto trans has been proven to hold more hp and torque. There have been serious advances in lsd's for the fwd platform, or if its a serious straight liner, just weld the damn thing. Slicks, axles, suspension geometry, weight distribution... all of it plays a factor.
Like I was sayin, follow the fwd drag thread, so much going on in there it will INSPIRE you to build a fwd beast.... plus, unless you count off the line 60' times, the gst is faster down the strip stock :thumb:
 
A MT fwd.... yea, its a chore to lay the power down. I have a fwd MT with ~500hp. Its pretty much useless.
That said, an AUTO fwd is nothing to laugh at. All you need is sticky tires up front and you will smoke most cars out there with just 350whp. Power to weight ratio is amazing, remember, its a fwd.

I'd let 'er rip and try to go for a build that flows 60 to 65lbs/min. Thats not crazy high hp but it'd be somewhat reliable and if you have electronic boost setup, a good vac pump to hold the line, and some sticky tires then i see good ETs in your future
 
I would leave the nitrous out, especially that big of a shot. If you like a 50 dry or something, sure, but 100-150 is a lot on the stock bottom end.

With that many miles I would consider refreshing the motor, something like a 1G rod and 2G piston combo, along with a Cometic or Fel-Pro Headgasket and ARP Head Studs, I would also consider rebuilding the head.
 
If you plan on throwing a 20g on that motor you will need a full rebuild but I am hoping you know that. Your goals are not out of reach and plan sounds reasonable so get to it! Part by part and get the engine together. If you start breaking things (I mean WHEN you start breaking things) don't get discouraged. That is the process of go fast. Enjoy it and enjoy being different with the auto FWD monster.
 
1000-1200cc injectors and run E85. Think about an ETS FMIC instead. They make a nice fitting one for us autos. Look for some good solid roll stop motor mounts too. You should be able to send in the TCU for a reflash to one of our vendors. Makes a big difference. And the Magnaflow cat back has a 2.5in connection and isn't a full 3in. I don't think the Megan downpipe is either. I know the Punishment Racing one is a full 3in, I believe. Just buy a good muffler and have an exhaust shop weld one up if you want Magnaflow.
 
Hahah yea ! The whole rehaul of the motor is already going into place. I'm building the head preparing it for the cams, so a full port and polish is under way. And the block. I'm just trying to find a lightweight crankshaft so far trying to retain the pistons. The 150 shot your right is a little too much boom risk for me. And a dry shot is what I was looking for, but how safe is a 50 shot? ...

I'm really leaning towards a 20g ...I don't want a too big of a turbo(HX35/40) something quick to spool but power to spare.
 
T25 housing is tiny not gonna happen... Unless you get a good deal on a fp t28 i wouldn't bother with a t28 either
Well...not talking about our T25 housing on our DSMs, and not really a 20G wheel, I think if got a little carried away thinking more of the whole 16G housing with a 20G wheel...

But what JusMX141 once told me an idea...for a reliable T28? Buy a Garrett GT2860R CHRA and have your T25 housings machined to accept the larger wheels. You'll end up with the same turbo as if you bought a new journal bearing TB2578, except it will be ball bearing. Go even bigger with a 2871 CHRA if you want. ;)...
 
In its own defense, although for some reason you ruled it out... we don't know why... the holset hx 35 with a bep housing will spool between a 16g and a 20g, but have more air flow than both.

Just sayin. You automatically ruled it out as a "big turbo", well, it is, but it can keep up and surpass the 20g you want. And it can be had for $400-$600, and that is including buying the $225 bep housing that bolts on. All depends on the deal you get... just to let you know there are more options than spending the same money on a couple wheels and machining a smaller turbo.
 
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