If your coolant boils, then a failed head gasket is causing that.

Is

SNAKE_15 said:

If your coolant boils, then a failed head gasket is causing that.

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That the only answer?

That would be it, you are pushing exhaust gasses into the coolant passages. Normally doesn't do it at idle, but will under load with the higher pressures.

Also, it its never a good idea to run without a thermostat in any weather. it will prevent hot spots in the block by regulating the coolant flow.

jbeaton9292 said:

Is

That the only answer?

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From what you said it sounds like the head gasket failing. Only way to know for sure is by doing a leak down test. When is the last time you did a coolant change? Bubbling is a major sign of a failed head gasket. How's the oil when you take out the dipstick? Is it milky? Your radiator cap could be shot as well causing the coolant to boil in the reservoir. Do that first and see what happens since that's cheap to replace.

I just put new radiator in car sat with no fluid for about 3-4 days

Did you remove all the air from the system?

Oil loos no different then it normaly does

Do we have a bleeder screw for the coolant system i never noticed one and im at work now so cant look

jd21 said:

Did you remove all the air from the system?

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I ran it for few minutes with cap off whats best way to do it

jbeaton9292 said:

I ran it for few minutes with cap off whats best way to do it

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The proper way is to evacuate all air first (vacuum). The pressure difference will force coolant throughout the coolant passages until the pressure is constant, leaving no trapped air.

Many companies sell vacuum coolant fill tools, including Blue Point.

Well i found orileys has the funnel needed to burp it the no spill funnel costs 40$

Hey jesse do a leak down test man, check out the compression numbers.

i just went through this situation with my car my oil never showed coolent because i was pushing coolent the head gasket gave way and was pushing exhaust gases through the cooling system. spend the money for a leak down tester they can be cheap. mine stilll pushed coolent at idle. possible causes for boiling coolent head gasket, small hole in cooling system allowing cold air in, thermostat not functioning or opening, pluged radiator, air pockets in cooling system, bad water pump, bad cap. its always good to do a leak down test anyways so i say just do it and you will see. hope your luck is better then mine..

Ive put 500 miles max on it since i bought it and compression was 160ish across all 4 and since then ive not reved over 5krpm or over 8psi and has no symptoms of bad headgasket other than the coolant overflow thing i made the thread about

Bad gasket.

OR, the system needs a drastic and total power flushout of all the gunk residing in the block since the radiator has been recently changed.

Ya need the T-stat in to 'throttle' down the coolant flow so the coolant can extract the heat off of the block.

How I burp the system is to drill a .050 hole in the t-stat flange prior to installation and if the T-stat is mounted vertically, have the hole facing straight up. This burps the system quite nicely.

With no T-stat, the coolant passes too quickly by to extract the heat and definite head gasket blowups will occur due to coolant temps hitting well over boiling point. Alum heads begin to warp due to the excessive heat, breaking the smooth and perfectly flat surfaces and gasket can't hold it anymore.

-DSM