Looking to buy a set of Comp Cams #101200, Comp states they are close to HKS 272's. The reason I'm looking at these, is becasue I can get a set brand new for cheap. They will be going in a 1G.

Questions.

1. Hows the everyday driveability w/ these cams.
2. Did they make the car pull alot harder up top?
3. Could you feel the overall difference they made?
4. Are they worth it?
5. How do they sound? Lumpy? Etc....
6. Are adj. cam gears a must w/ a 1G?
7. Any other mods w/ the valve train need to be done?

Thanks guys. I'd really like to get a set of cams, but only if they are worth it.

Heres a link to the cams if anyone is interested.
http://slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=165&

I have the FP2s (which are very similar) and they idle near-stock with no degreeing. With the 50-trim I gained 5mph and .5secs in the 1/4 mile with no other modifications on pump @23psi.

BTW.. I suggest getting your rev limiter increased to 7800-8000 (w/stock springs) as you'll be dancing on the limiter really quick in every gear

OK, Thanks for the info. How's your everyday driveabilty w/ them, like at stop and go traffic, etc, and low rpm putting around?

Are your cams degreed now? And if so, did you degree them using adj. cam gears?

And you say to increase rev limit to 7800 or 8000, using the stock springs and retainers? Is this correct? I didn't think 8k was good for stockers? If you are using stockers at 8k, how often do you touch 8k? Only at the strip or DD?

project_tsi said:

OK, Thanks for the info. How's your everyday driveabilty w/ them, like at stop and go traffic, etc, and low rpm putting around?

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Unchanged from stock other than spoolup is a couple hundred RPMs later.

Are your cams degreed now? And if so, did you degree them using adj. cam gears?

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Straight-up these Cams idled like stock with a deeper exhaust note. I did not need Adj Gears nor will I be getting any. I'm very happy with the performance right now.

And you say to increase rev limit to 7800 or 8000, using the stock springs and retainers? Is this correct? I didn't think 8k was good for stockers? If you are using stockers at 8k, how often do you touch 8k? Only at the strip or DD?

Click to expand...

My limiter is set at 7800RPM and 1-3rd gear goes by so fast now it's difficult not bouncing off the limiter.

These cams and the bigger turbo really open up the higher RPMs for you so use as much as possible. I'm not going to say there is no risk in raising the RPMs, just in researching what others have said and done before with the same cams/stock springs, I'd be comfortable running up to 8K

Ok Looks like I will have the Comp 101200 cams in a few weeks. I know some people have not had to degree, but has anyone had to degree or use adj. cam gears to get them to run right? I'm looking for stricktly Comp 101200 users, as the FP2's are VERY close, yet slighty diff then the Comps. Thanks.

I have the FP2's since they were introduced. Love them to death. I also rev to 8,000 with the stock valvetrain and a light ported 1g head and i have had no problems whatsoever. The only problem i found was that the tranny sometimes doesn't like shifting from 2-3 at 8,000rpm but the no lift to shift took care of that for me with dsmlink now it goes in like butter As far as drivability the cams have almost no lumpyness at all. It pretty much sounds like a stock car and yes make sure to increase your idle to 950 or 1,000 otherwise your going to be stalling the car. I also have the fidanza cam gears but i have not yet taken the car to dyno and have the cams degreed so we'll see what happens.

Edit: Just noticed your 1/4 mile am trapping the same mph with a et of 14.1

Sorry to bump an old thread. But I also have fp2's and I am wondering if I should take the time and degree them or will the results be very minimal?

It really depends on what work has been done engine wise and if you are comfortable with running them without knowing exact cam timing. I use the Comp 101200 cams and did degree them. The head had a few resurfaces and the block was resurfaced. I ended up needing to change both cams by around 2.5-3 degrees to get them to the "straight up" specs on the spec card that comes with the cams because of that.

The block is completely stock, just had the head gasket surface cleaned up. Head is rebuilt and has been resurfaced. I have the degree wheel and dial indicator gauges to do it. I'm just confused about getting zero lash without having to rig up some lifters

You can buy a couple solid lifters. Modular ford adjustable lash adjusters are cheap, and can be used with a little modding. Also, you'll want an old rocker arm. Drill a hole through the end that goes over the lifter, big enough for an Allen wrench to adjust the lifter.

Ah I never thought of that for making it adjustable. I think I will do that.

Now I just have to figure out how to mount the comp degree wheel to the crank.

1. Hows the everyday driveability w/ these cams. : I have these in my 600awhp daily and they are very streetable.

2. Did they make the car pull alot harder up top? : Yes, tons of top end. I did a SMIM and cams at the same time so it could be more one or the other but it pulls REALLY hard.

3. Could you feel the overall difference they made? : Yes, car pulls extra hard at 5000+

4. Are they worth it? : I love em, definatly a good upgrade depending on your current setup.

5. How do they sound? Lumpy? on a 2.3 stroker, they idle with a little more lope, but nothing huge.

6. Are adj. cam gears a must w/ a 1G? : No, but you will make more power with properly adjusted cams.

7. Any other mods w/ the valve train need to be done? I would recommend springs, but stockers MIGHT be ok, not sure

You will need better valve springs, stockers are a bad bet as I learned firsthand.

I kept the stock valvetrain going from fp2s to 3s and it split a rocker arm in two when the spring bound, bending all 16 valves .

It's worth it to put $1k into the head first, rather than after you f up your pistons with valve impact dents. Get Supertech dual springs if you get FP3s, or stay with FP2s and pray the stock valvetrain will hold

+1 on the valvesprings. I had these cams 101200 with a 16g and nearly every time I would run over 16 psi I would float a rocker then have to go picking out the needle bearings with a magnet.