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My Custom 2G Drag Race/Street HD brake setup.

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Doesn't seem like enough surface area to withstand the constant abuse from daily use. 'If people can heat up, thick heavy duty stockers to the point of warpage on a single hard stop, just think what these little brake "waffers
" would be subjected to.
 
Doesn't seem like enough surface area to withstand the constant abuse from daily use. 'If people can heat up, thick heavy duty stockers to the point of warpage on a single hard stop, just think what these little brake "waffers" would be subjected to.
I would think that slowing down from 150 mph at a dragstrip would create more heat and stress on the rotors than basic everyday street braking.
 
Well thats one braking session, then you drive back and wait a while for your next run...

Constantly stopping at stop lights and highway offramps is where the heat comes in.
 
Well thats one braking session, then you drive back and wait a while for your next run... Constantly stopping at stop lights and highway offramps is where the heat comes in.
One hard, long, strenuous braking session. I'm no braking expert, but I would think that the amount of heat generated from slowing 3000 lbs down from 150 mph, would far exceed the heat generated during normal light braking of street driving. Maybe I'm wrong though.

I've got to imagine that rotor warpage is just of much as a concern in racing as street driving. And if a rotor can't handle abuse, it's going to warp on the road or off the road just the same.
 
With any racing application, it will be under substantially higher temperatures than normally seen on the street unless you are a complete idiot driving with a foot on the brake the whole time.

I normally heat crack my 12.2" x 0.81" directionally vaned rotors in ~2-3 seasons. I have never ever warped a brake rotor from my driving. I would expect that due to the reduced material volume and lower surface area, the brake rotor would be more prone to cracking or warpage under extended high-temperature braking. In my circumstance, I do some street driving with the car and am very tame on the brakes, as well as drag racing. I am also using a very aggressive brake pad that really works hard on the rotors.

This kit was made so that I reduced as much weight off the car as possible while still retaining an excellent street use brake setup. If you want a brake rotor that has a higher capacity or higher resistance to warpage/cracking, you should look at something thicker than 0.81" thick. With that said, these brakes are not made for road race applications whatsoever where you are seeing extended high-temperature braking periods.

If you are looking for a good amount of weight removed in unsprung rotating mass, unsprung mass and sprung mass while increasing your braking performance over stock-size rotors with much better quality products, this is the way to go.

Hell, if you guys really want to bi*** about the streetability of scalloped rotors, go look at drilled rotors; they have just as much tendency for cracking as a scalloped and weigh more while having more surface area. It is all in the application that you use them on.

If you think that they are gonig to crack or warp extremely fast in a drag racing application, you are wrong. Go ask Brakeman how their kit does -- while costing substantially more to purchase, and their rotors are only ~0.350" thick solid rotors that are scalloped and drilled. The rotors I am using are vented, scalloped and drilled and ~1/2" thicker than Brakeman's while being nearly the same overall weight (within 1 pound for kit.)
 
Sean, I will be having the parachute as well. I just wanted weight taken off the car, and the amount taken off for a brake UPGRADE was substantial.

These brakes have had no issues yet with absolutely no problems stopping me from 140mph at the track with 1/2 brake pressure in neutral on a very short return track.

So far, very happy with them.
 
You get what you pay for with Brakeman, his stuff is NICE! I really want a set for the car. His rotors are a little different then most other scalloped rotors, they use them on circle track cars that get the rotor glowing red and they dont crack!!

I have not heard of anyone in our drag racing world cracking any scalloped rotors.
 
You get what you pay for with Brakeman, his stuff is NICE! I really want a set for the car. His rotors are a little different then most other scalloped rotors, they use them on circle track cars that get the rotor glowing red and they dont crack!!

I have not heard of anyone in our drag racing world cracking any scalloped rotors.

Ben, I agree, Brakeman parts (especially their calipers) are really top-notch brake products and are worth the high dollar price they command. They have been around in circle-track racing for a while with a great product.

As for my brakes, the rotors, hats, calipers and pads are used in circle track applications as well.

Scalloped rotors are used for qualifying racing in many types of motorsports, then swap out for their larger/heavier rotors for continuous use braking during the actual race. Anything to reduce as much weight from the car as possible for a few extra tenths helps for getting a better position. Crews also use brake blocks (fake calipers/pads) or "simulators" to drop weight further. No way I would safely condone doing this in a street or drag setup, but these things are done on a regular basis in the motorsport world.
 
Tim, I figured that Wilwood disclaimer was probably more for liability reasons than anything else. Looks like they have it for their drilled rotors too.

I plan to mostly track my car and occasional short-distance street cruises. I need to get rid of my 12.19" rotors for an 11.75" diameter to clear my new 15" wheels, and I figured I'd go to a scallopped rotor for reduced sprung weight.

I planned to go with this rotor (it's in stock and dirt cheap) unless you know of a reason why I shouldn't:

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Paul, are you going to use these on your fronts only? If so, you will need to do some custom work to fit, but it is possible.

First off, you will need to see if your existing 12.2" brake kit is a 8x7.62" bolt pattern or an 8x7.00" bolt pattern. If it is the latter (8x7"), you can simply bolt on the rotor, and make a new caliper bracket for proper spacing of the caliper for the reduction in brake rotor size.

If you are going from an 8x7.62" pattern to an 8x7" pattern, it is a bit more complicated as you will then require the spindle grinding like I did to mine, in conjunction with new rotor hats (and machinework), brake rotor hardware kit, new caliper brackets and potentially a different caliper bracket mounting hardware orientation.

If your current bracket mounting hardware consists of a bolt with washers on each end and a nut on the inside (holding the bracket to the spindle), you will need to tap the spindle bolt holes with a M14x1.5mm tap and then get 25mm length M14x1.5mm bolts that attach the caliper bracket from the backside with one M14 washer being used as a spacer between the spindle and caliper bracket, and one washer between the bolt head and caliper bracket. This is required if you are running an 8x7" pattern rotor as the new fasteners that attach the rotor from the inside to the hat have a substantially smaller ID than an 8x7.62" pattern rotor that has fasteners attaching the rotor from the outside.

So...with all that said, before you order the rotors, measure your brake rotor mounting pattern and spacing (8x7" or 8x7.62"). The fasteners used are also different for each of these applications.
 
Yup, fronts only. My existing hats are 8x7.00, so I know that the scallopped rotor will bolt right up. I disassembled a corner on Friday and took a bunch of measurements. It's going to be as simple as a shorter spacer for the caliper bracket to make up for the .220" smaller radius of the rotor. The caliper body will be pretty damn close to the bracket with the shorter spacers, but there should be enough clearance to avoid contact. If I need to machine .100" from the bracket for clearance, that won't be a problem either.

I wish Wilwood had the weights of their rotors listed on their website. I don't know what my current rotors weigh, but I've got to imagine that the difference of a smaller diameter scallopped rotor is pretty significant.
 
Yup, fronts only. My existing hats are 8x7.00, so I know that the scallopped rotor will bolt right up. I disassembled a corner on Friday and took a bunch of measurements. It's going to be as simple as a shorter spacer for the caliper bracket to make up for the .220" smaller radius of the rotor. The caliper body will be pretty damn close to the bracket with the shorter spacers, but there should be enough clearance to avoid contact. If I need to machine .100" from the bracket for clearance, that won't be a problem either.

I wish Wilwood had the weights of their rotors listed on their website. I don't know what my current rotors weigh, but I've got to imagine that the difference of a smaller diameter scallopped rotor is pretty significant.

Expect around 3-4 pounds reduction per corner going from the 12.2"x0.81" 8x7" pattern rotor to a 11.75"x0.81" 8x7" pattern rotor. It might be slightly more than that.

I have the wilwood scalloped rotors on a shelf right now, I will go get a weight off of them. As well, are your rotors directionally vaned or straight vaned that are currently on the car?
 
My current rotors are straight vaned, but directionally drilled and slotted.

You wouldn't happen to have a Wilwood part number for the 11.75"x0.81" 8x7" drilled scallopped rotors, would you? I didn't see them in my Wilwood catalog or their webiste. I only found their non-drilled version.
 
Tim interested to hear more experience with these rotors as you get more track time in.

I am leaning this way with my car.

Todd you will prob get a call from me this winter to set something up for 15" wheels and be light as possible.
 
So, as a little update...4 years later!

The brakes are still on the car and still kicking ass!!

I changed a brake pad compound and a rotor style on the front; went from BP-30 pads with scalloped/drilled/vented rotors, TO H-polymatrix pads and scalloped/vented rotors. It's about 0.5" heavier per corner in the front but the overall wear patterns are absolutely perfect.

The front is running the H-polymatrix pads, the rear is still on E-polymatrix pads. Excellent brake bias, great control, zero fade for street or drag track usage at 150+mph traps in a 3300# vehicle.

I only sold 1 rear set of the 5 I made, and that was to Devin Schultz of Boostin Performance who has had them on his car for 3 years now. His brakes still look brand-new with the cross-hatches still to this day! And that is the quickest/fastest AWD 2G in the world currently at 8.1x's in the 1/4mi. I wanted to sit on the product for a while to get some solid real-world track data back from a major racer and I have it! I have around 18,000-20,000 miles on mine, and around 100 track passes all in the upper/mid 9's in the 1/4 in a heavy car.

Overall, I would say I am pretty happy with how the product turned out!
 
Tim I love your rear kit and still plan on getting a set for my 2g just haven't gotten around to ordering it yet. I'm not sure what I'm going to do for the front yet tho. Thinking I might piece together a kit to match your rear kit, same rotor just diff hat ofcourse, and same series caliper. Was also thinking about taking your rear caliper bracket and doubling it so I can run two calipers on the rear. One for foot brake and one for hand brake.
 
I have like 2 kits worth of parts to build them left.

I am running 12.2" fronts with 6 piston calipers. You can see if Todd @ TCE Performance still makes a 2G front kit too.

As for the rear bracketry, you would have to custom machine a bracket to fit something unique like that with dual calipers, and i am not sure you would be able to fit another 4 piston caliper on the rear as the toe arm gets pretty tight to rear caliper mounting fitment.
 
Ya I was thinking about that too. I would love to do the same series caliper as the one you use in the rear kit just the 6 piston version up front and the biggest .81 thick scalloped rotor I can fit under a 15" wheel. And realistically I could just do a 2 piston second caliper on the rear for the hand brake because I'll just be using it for stagging and maybe parking. Not like I'm building a drift car haha. I want to run 15" wheels tho cuz the Hoosiers I have picked out are 26/11.50r15. if I could find a similar size tire for a 16" wheel I would do a 16 but I can't find anything good.
 
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