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4G64 Fuse box with 4G63 Wire Harness

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agarcia

10+ Year Contributor
69
24
Jun 27, 2011
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
OK, I got a couple of questions with this swap, by the way i already started the swap and there is no going back, the 4G63 engine is mounted with the 4G64 M/T, i'm using the GST engine wire harness, the problem is that the fuse box has a female connector and the GST harness has a female connector and i cannot connect the two. Should i switch to the 4G64 wire harness? If so, what modifications do i have to do to it? I know that the 4G64 does not have a knock sensor. I have done a lot of research but cannot find any information on this matter. I also want to know if it is necessary to rewire the fuel pump now that i have the turbo engine, can i just use the fuel pump from the GST?

Pictures 1&2 are the Spyder GS fuse box and connector


Pictures 3&4 are the connector fom the GST wire harness


Pictures 4&5 are the connector from the 4G63 Fuse box and Fuse box



Please help,

Thanks!!
 
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Are you going to be running a turbo 97-99 ECU? If so, I would manually bring a wire to the ECU from the knock sensor and pin it into pin 78 on the ECU and ground the second wire. You should be able to use all the other connectors. You will have to wire in a resistor pack for the turbo injectors. This will keep it clean under the hood and save hours of work.

As for the fuel pump, if you swap to a turbo ECU, you will have to bypass the "fuel pump module" under the driver's side right kick-panel. It is a solid state relay that is triggered by 5V from the ECU Pin 8 and all turbo ECU's send 12 volts from that pin (oddly the only difference on the outputs I've seen between a Spyder and Turbo 97-99 ECU). A turbo ECU will most certainly kill that module or do funny things with it. I have not tested it yet with 12 volts.

If you do not have a turbo ECU, you can wire up the knock sensor, but the NT Spyder ECU has no knock sense programmed in and it will not function. But, you can just drop in the GST fuel pump and it will run (poorly).

Here's what you should do:
1) Keep the full Spyder Harness and wire in a knock-sensor wire to pin 78. Keep the GST harness if you need to swap an underhood plug for some odd reason during the build/or extend wires.
2) Wire in a resistor pack for the injectors
3) Bypass the Fuel pump Module (there is a FAQ somewhere)
4) Get a 98-99 Flashable ECU and put a turbo rom on it.

****optional 4)**** Get a 98-99 Spyder NT ECU and put a Turbo rom on it and leave the fuel pump module alone (because Spyder NT Black boxes have a 5V pin 78 trigger), but still wire in the knock sensor.

Good luck man!
 
Thanks!!!! I have been doing research for a while, I thought that if i used the gst wire harness that I would not have to tinker with wiring, guess I was wrong, if I use the gst fuel pump and rewire it, would it still run poorly? Is the resistor pack really necessary? I though that was needed when adding turbo to the 4g64, sorry for the newbie questions, and much thanks in advance.
 
No problem. The resistor pack is absolutely required for running the OEM DSM Turbo 450CC injectors or any other low impedance injector. Your OEM NT injectors are high impedance and thus they did not come with a resistor pack. I say start wiring it up now and looking for a set of injectors if you don't have them already.

If you get a 97-99 Turbo ECU, put the resistor pack in, put OEM DSM turbo 450CC injectors, wire in the knock sensor, re-wire the GST fuel pump to bypass your Spyder NT fuel pump module, and get a Turbo MAF and all turbo intercooler/plumbing, the car should run close to a stock turbo DSM after adjusting the idle as per the service manual.

On a side note about my comment earlier using a Spyder NT black box ECU and putting a turbo ROM on it, I just tested the box to make sure it reads knock voltage by adding a pin and it reads knock voltage correctly. The Spyder NT Black Box is a good solution for any DSM actually, granted one has flash capability.
 
I am really appreciative of your responses, they have been very helpful, however i want to make sure that we are on the same page, i already have a complete 4G63 Motor with all the turbo components (SMIC, BOV etc.) I bought a donor car that had a salvage title and have been using it for parts, the donor car is a 1997 GST with 94K miles, i took the automatic trnsmision out of it and installed the 4G64 M/T that i had to it. See picture below of how project is coming along. Thanks!! :thumb:



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OK, today I put the 4g64 spyder wire harness on the 4g63 motor, now I have a few questions, 1) the picture belowi believe is the resistor pack from the 4g63, since the spyder harness does not have a plug for it I should use the pigtail from the 4g63 harness and connect to the injectors like the link from post 2 shows, correct?
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I'll the other questions when I hey to the computer, I'm paying from my phone,

thanks in advance
 
Correct. That link in (post #3 actually) has a very good "how to" on the resistor pack install. I'd hack the whole injector section with resistor pack connectors and injector connectors from the donor GST you have. Just take time and make it clean and it will actually turn out better than the "how-to" link.
 
Possibly boost control/wastegate solenoid. On the GST, you got the solenoid by the front passenger side near the intake, correct? If so, that's it and it does have to be pinned to the ECU (pin 11) while the other lead goes to any 12V POSITIVE WIRE off of any of the other solenoids or a wire that supplies 12V with the key in the ON position (not ACC).
 
Thanks man you are awesome, the spyder harness does not have plug for the canister either, I can't upload those pictures because they're too large, also have a few extra plugs on the spyder harness, is this normal? Thanks for all the help, tomorrow I will be working on the car and putting the full exhaust from the gst and wiring as much as I can get done, I'll keep posting the progress and any questions that might come up, can't wait to have it fired up :D
 
I found a DSM ECU Pin Out that i found very helpful, since so far i found out that the spyder N/A wire harness does not have connectors for the Evap Purge Solenoid, Turbo Wastegate Solenoid and Knock Sensor i will be wiring directly to the ECU.
 

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I found a DSM ECU Pin Out that i found very helpful, since so far i found out that the spyder N/A wire harness does not have connectors for the Evap Purge Solenoid, Turbo Wastegate Solenoid and Knock Sensor i will be wiring directly to the ECU.

Good stuff man! That sounds about right, but I also think you need add a Fuel pressure solenoid (if not, just route the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line directly to the intake manifold and that will get you going just fine) and verify your IACV (Idle solenoid) wiring is OK to plug in. That should be it! The wiring on the solenoids are dead simple as all the positives are tied and only one signal wire each goes to the ECU. I think it's good to have them in a different loom in case one day you decide to delete them (I did/but I have spare connectors in the engine bay).

Good luck and you should be running shortly.

Attached for reference is a quick run-down of the solenoid wiring. The connector (and all connectors in the manual) is oriented as if you are looking into the connector from the back on the wiring side, not the connection side.
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Thanks, I'm not very good at reading those, however i found a plug on the spyder harness that plugs into the knock sensor plug from the 4g63??????
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Also there are some wires that are left over, nowhere to plug,
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Lol on the top plug. I'd bet it's the reverse switch--located on the transmission.

The bottom connectors: The right one could be the coil pack connector (likely). The left could be the front O2 sensor.

From the picture it looks like you have a 95-96 Turbo motor. The cam and crank sensor are mounted on a bracket (on the engine) by the timing cover right near the brake fluid reservoir (driver's side). Make sure, since you have a 1998, that your CAM sensor wire is converted (take connector off of your 95-96 GST harness) to plug into the older style can-sensor. Disregard if you already did this.

Post the wire colors if you don't figure it out.
 
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Oh nice. I missed the cam sensor back there on the passenger side of the head then. That makes things easier. Your Spyder cam sensor plug plugs right in! Those two must be the coil pack and O2, but I could be wrong on that so double check everything and post wire colors if you can.

On a side note, I'm working on some in-depth ISCV testing for the EVO 8 ECUs and DSM ECUs respectively with regards to idle control issues [for ECU swaps vs. throttle body and in general] so I have most all of the diagrams present which would explain some of this.
 
I'm stuck, the connector that plugs to the resistor pack has 6 wires (see below) but the resistor pack has only 5 wires,
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I bought a shielded wire for the knock sensor and i have researched about it some, the wire that i bought has a white and a red wire inside, how do i connect to the two black and white wires from the knock sensor plug? (See below), the wire that sticking out of the shielded wire should be grounded, correct? Should i just solder another wire to it? Please help.
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Would it not have been easier to just splice in the gst harness to the spyder power?

I have a 95 gst complete swap going in a 97 spyder, am planning on using the gst harness and ecu. I assume I'm going to have the same issue as you.
I want to use the gst harness though.

Yes the braided shield wire is ground.
 
I'm stuck, the connector that plugs to the resistor pack has 6 wires (see below) but the resistor pack has only 5 wires,

I think you have the connector for the IAC (which has 6 wires). But in any event, pin 2, looking at the connector from the back/top center pin is not connected.

Would it not have been easier to just splice in the gst harness to the spyder power?

I have a 95 gst complete swap going in a 97 spyder, am planning on using the gst harness and ecu. I assume I'm going to have the same issue as you.
I want to use the gst harness though.

Yes the braided shield wire is ground.

I guess there's many different ways to tackle this. I guess for me, it's easier to pin some wires and splice in power to the solenoids and resistor pack than to remove the engine/ECU/Power harness.

OP, you still have the GST harness, so whatever makes it easier for you! I think the resistor pack is probably the toughest part for someone who doesn't like wiring diagrams. But great progress and basically the home stretch thus far anyways. The skills learned by patiently doing a job like this (whichever way it's done) are priceless in the real world--and you have a turbo DSM at the end.

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probably lil late for this but still might help if you dont have it bookmarked.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

So does anyone know of a reason the gst harness cant be spliced into the spyder gs power harness? It looked like a lot of similar colored wires. I mainly dont want the spyder harness because it was auto so a bunch more connectors, already have the gst harness clean and ready plus all the other wiring.
 
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