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Auto Trans Inspection

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Zufelt

Proven Member
533
9
Oct 15, 2012
Lemoore, California
Hey what's up guys!! New to the Auto Trans and had a few questions! I purchased the trans used, and of course want to be sure it is in fair condition.

1. What amount of play in and out is acceptable in the outputshaft. Here is a video of my current.
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2. I noticed this crack on the housing, I don't think it should cause any issue but what's your opinion.
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3. It was sent to me with an axle cup still attached.. I can't for the life of me remove this, any ideas? Sprayed it and letting it sit over night.

4. I was curious if it's possible to manually shift an Auto just like a manual to be sure it goes into all gears.
 
You will need that. Just swap it out with your current Auto tranny. Stuck axle cup may mean issue with the C-clip try looking at it from the other, open side and see if you can see the issue. How far does the crack co on the case? Looks like that tranny was dropped during shipping.
 
I'd take it to someone who can patch that crack up. No need letting it get bigger and bigger until it does become an issue. Some welding and grinding will do just fine
That looks like the gear selector "thingamajig", not sure the exact name. Just use one off a different AT and you're good to go.
 
You need to pull or pry on the axle cup and tap it with a hammer at the same time..
 
Thanks for the reply guys, UPS is coming to assess the damage. The crack isn't to bad from the other side, here is a picture.

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I also messaged the man himself, Tim and he said long as I wasn't using my TCU that I don't need that piece. I'll be getting the crack welded up, and fixed when UPS credits me insurance. My main concern at this point is the output shaft, and the gear selector.. it seems I can't move it (not sure if you can like a manual) but it looks like it got dropped on it as the little piece is being blocked by the bell housing. Here is a picture. Good to see you in this thread Boost.

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Here is a video, it seems perhaps it was dropped on the gear selector? Does this orientation look right?..
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That gear shift selector is very much bent. It should shift smoothly between R, P, D, 1, 2, 3.

Both arms are bent.
That's what I thought.. well I have my UPS insurance cash coming SOMETIME this month. I'll end up getting another as I'll assume its only good for internals now?
 
That's what I thought.. well I have my UPS insurance cash coming SOMETIME this month. I'll end up getting another as I'll assume its only good for internals now?

Bend the arms back into place. It doesn't take a ton of force to bend those arms, especially if it hit near the very end.

Shift into 1st and rotate the input shaft, you should be able to rotate it by hand (not easily but it should rotate) .
 
Bend the arms back into place. It doesn't take a ton of force to bend those arms, especially if it hit near the very end.

Shift into 1st and rotate the input shaft, you should be able to rotate it by hand (not easily but it should rotate) .
Good call man.. I bent it back and can shift through 5 gears. Think the arm bending that way hurt anything? I could also rotate the first set of splines on the input shaft, but not the bigger second set. I put the cable on and can shift through all the gears aside from the very last one down. Which I'm assuming is 1st.. if this is the case I don't think it will bug me much not having that as I'm using the shiftkit anyways. Here is a video to explain a bit more.

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Good call man.. I bent it back and can shift through 5 gears. Think the arm bending that way hurt anything? I could also rotate the first set of splines on the input shaft, but not the bigger second set. I put the cable on and can shift through all the gears aside from the very last one down. Which I'm assuming is 1st.. if this is the case I don't think it will bug me much not having that as I'm using the shiftkit anyways. Here is a video to explain a bit more.

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Make sure rotation is not being obstructed at any point through the selector sweep. The shaft has a bearing that would have absorbed all of the lateral load from being dropped. As long as the shaft does not have any lateral play and you can achieve each selection point without effort, I'd run it.
 
The rotation is not being obstructed in any gear, BUT there is a very SMALL amount of play in the shaft lateral wise. Its pretty small.. I'll have a video up soon of the gear sweep and the play when my phone charges.
 
Seems I have 5 out of 6 gears.. getting the crack welded back up, but will probably stay away from welding the mating surface. I'll post pics when I'm done.
 
Buddy said he would weld it up, and UPS said they were going to issue the insurance money. Any ideas as to why I only have 5/6 gears like in the video? I was also curious as to why there is this metal tab on my converter.. I tried to search "metal tab" "Square" "Metel peice" but nothing comes up as I'm probably using the wrong term.

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Buddy said he would weld it up, and UPS said they were going to issue the insurance money. Any ideas as to why I only have 5/6 gears like in the video? I was also curious as to why there is this metal tab on my converter.. I tried to search "metal tab" "Square" "Metel peice" but nothing comes up as I'm probably using the wrong term.

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There are 6 positions but 5 movement points.

Starting from Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 2nd, 1st.

Neutral is where the hole in the shift selector arm matches up with the hole in the shaft body.

The input shaft looks like it has a normal amount of axial movement, especially being dry of any oil.

You won't be able to rotate the larger splined shaft by hand, this rotates the oil pump.

Square is weight added for balancing.
 
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There are 6 positions but 5 movement points.

Starting from Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 2nd, 1st.

Neutral is where the hole in the shift selector arm matches up with the hole in the shaft body.

The input shaft looks like it has a normal amount of axial movement, especially being dry of any oil.

You won't be able to rotate the larger splined shaft by hand, this rotates the oil pump.

Square is weight added for balancing.


Upon second look, the input shaft may have some excessive play. Factory spec. is no greater 0.039" of axial play.

Also, the correct terms are manual control lever and inhibitor switch when locating neutral.
 
Upon second look, the input shaft may have some excessive play. Factory spec. is no greater 0.039" of axial play.

Also, the correct terms are manual control lever and inhibitor switch when locating neutral.
Solid. I appreciate it man, I'll end up getting the play checked as I don't own the tool. The 5 movement points but 6 position points are a bit confusing. Obvously I have the 5 movement points. Does park and reverse share a movement point? Regardless everything seems to be good aside from the play. Was the video clean enough? I can upload it in 1080p on YouTube. If it's clear, but just not able to tell how excessive I'll be sure to have a machine shop tell me. Thanks again Craig, you've been the knowledge book In this thread.
 
What's up guys, few updates I got the trans in the car, then noticed the starter, as well as axles are different.. I went to fill the trans, while I was waiting for the axles to ship and the fluid of course drained right out of the axle holes. I figure this would go away when I put in the new axles, but it didn't. I installed the passanger side axle fine, as well as the driver side.. I got the driver side all buttoned up and went to raise the car for the passenger side and it starts to leak out of that damn driver side axle again.. the only thing I could think of is that it's not seated all the way. So I removed all the parts, only to find out that the driver side doesn't have the little clip.. so now I'm at a complete loss of why it's doing this. I saw something awhile back that you needed washers for the driver side axle when swapping, but I am unsure where, or if I actually need them.. any input would greatly be appreciated.

The only thing I can think of off the top of my head, is that went I purchased the AUTO 2g awd axles, I was sent a half. So I had to take the bracket, and the peice that goes into the trans off my manual gsx and put it on the other auto driver side axle half.
 
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What year trans is it?

I believe this information is accurate, but I'm not a 2g expert.

If you have a 2GA you need:

Driver 2GA Auto CV Axle
Driver 1G/2G auto/5 speed Intermediate shaft
Passenger 2GA Auto CV Axle

If you have a 2GB you need:

Driver 2GB Auto CV Axle
Driver 2GB Auto/5 speed intermediate shaft
Passenger 2GB Auto CV Axle

Probably your best source for many auto related answers is: www.atdsm.com
 
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