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Intermittemt knock, help with opinions on what it is

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,432
8,068
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
So I have an intermittent knock and am not sure if it is piston slap, ring land or rod knock or something else. Any and all opinions are welcome...I am all ears. Please see this video link if possible and thank you to all.

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Hopefully you can view and hear it. It doesn't sound like top end, it doesn't sound like bottom end but could be. Just had a clutch install although I don't think it has anything to do with it but I'm still open to opinions. Thanks!
 
Rod bearing ... you can hear the one rod bearing when power is added with the one piston being pushed down per power stroke. It's a light knock, but still a knock just the same. Drop the oil pan and see if you can push up on any rods or feel any free play.
Thing sounds terribly loose-like nothing is anything but tight.
One cylinder is lagging behind the others.
Lifters are tired-have issues in holding good pressure.
Motor's been beaten to death.
You're definitely due for an overhaul.

Good luck - DSM
 
Thanks. Was afraid of it. Car was in terrible hands before we got it and hoped to save it. Now I don't know if its saveable. Appreciate it DSM1G90! :cry:
 
Since I'm a newb, hard to pull motor??? Any tips?? Thanks you guys!
 
Sure appreciate all of you fella's (and gals if there were any) tips and hints. Keep them coming, I can't have enough help. :thumb:
 
Thank you Victor, I need the help! Much appreciated!!!
 
Thanks Victor, I'll gladly take you up on that!!!
 
So what does a veteran DSMer do about the crank when your rod knocks? Do you turn them or get a new one or a reman one ( I hate reman Small Block Chevy cranks IMO).Then resize rods? Of course NEW oil pump, bearings and rings with a new MLS head gasket and already have headstuds in motor - what else....chime on in yall. Ballpark cost? Specific bearings, rings etc? Its a stick car, bse even tho Jacks recomends leaving them. On a budget but still all ears. Have it balanced? Chime in! I'm not scared. And thanks everyone!
 
Balancing with aftermarket rods/pistons isnt THAT critical. Remember, its an inline 4 and aftermarket stuff is very very close in weight. As far as Jacks recommending against BSE's.....well, i dont agree. Due to the fact that its not directly connected to the rotating assembly but rather by a belt.
Cost can vary widely but with a new crank(eagle, manley) you're looking north of 1500. Thats not counting all the gaskets and the new front case you're putting on and all the random little stuff. Whether you assemble the rotating assy. or not will also come in to play. It really depends on the machinist's hourly rate and what all has to be done.

Example: I just had my rotating assembly disassembled, block cleaned, everything mic'd, and hone the walls. Then reassembled. Cost: $300
 
If your crank is able to be turned a bit to be used, reuse it. If not buy a used good oem crank and have it polished. You can pick up cranks on here for 1-200 don't mess with reman.

If you are doing a stock type rebuild then you probably don't need your rotating assy balanced.
 
You can get the crank recut and it will run fine. You can also buy a used one that just needs a polish. In the past, when this has came up for myself, I have always found another crank. I prefer not to cut them. Its all preference.
 
You can get the crank recut and it will run fine. You can also buy a used one that just needs a polish. In the past, when this has came up for myself, I have always found another crank. I prefer not to cut them. Its all preference. A cut crank will cost over 100 bucks while a used crank can be found for cheaper. Polishing is really cheap too.
 
Keep the tips coming, I'm trying to save up some money so any and all hints, tips and tricks are welcome. I believe I will stick with the stock rotating assembly since if I can get 300 or 350 hp max I am a VERY happy camper. If this is not a good move, by all means check in and chime away, no harm no foul. The very MAX this motor would EVER EVER see would be 8000 and I am quite happy with 7000. I need all opinions out there and thanks again to you guys!!!! :)
 
How about the best advice for a complete rebuild KIT or do they make them. One of our Vendors??? What all should I put on my list so I can kind of get a dollar figure on parts. Thanks fellow DSMers!!!
 
SIM, STM, Extremepsi... Probably more vendors as well all carry complete gasket kits, top to bottom.
You will need the machinist's specs to order bearings, pistons.
Full gasket kit gonna run you about 250 give or take 25 bucks.
 
WONDERFUL replies, thank you everyone. The more the merrier!! Thanks Josh for hangin in there with me like my other buddies (Hey Vic :) and livedsm4g63 and boost97gst) !!! :thumb: I'm trying to keep her on the streets and alive, she sure was abused before I got her, god bless her little heart.
 
K xd
Rod bearing ... you can hear the one rod bearing when power is added with the one piston being pushed down per power stroke. It's a light knock, but still a knock just the same. Drop the oil pan and see if you can push up on any rods or feel any free play.
Thing sounds terribly loose-like nothing is anything but tight.
One cylinder is lagging behind the others.
Lifters are tired-have issues in holding good pressure.
Motor's been beaten to death.
You're definitely due for an overhaul.

Good luck - DSM
 
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