whats the exact fitting i have to get if the gauge came with a 1/4 fitting and 1/8 fitting to fit it on and the tap hole dosent fit any of this sorry very confused with all this??

Pipe thread sizing refers to the ID of the fittings. Not the OD of the threads. It's kind of confusing this way I think.

The tap holes in the OFH are 3/8" and 1/8". Your supplied hardware only goes up to 1/4"

Remember it goes 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2 etc.

The easiest way would be to get an adapter that goes from the big 3/8 hole and reduces it down to 1/4. Now you will be able to thread it that 1/4 adapter.

I looked for a BSPT adapter and couldn't find one. But just so you get the idea, use one of these:
Pro Series 3 8 NPT Male 1 4 NPT Female Reducer Black 3 8" to 1 4" New | eBay

That will thread into the OFH. Now you have a 1/4 hole available. Thread in the supplied 1/4 adapter that came with the gauge and walla. Just make sure the line don't kink, you could probably get a 90* fitting in there to fix that issue if it ever happens.

OR cut out the middle man, buy this adapter and screw it into one of the 1/8 holes. This will go straight from the 1/8 hole to 1/8" tubing.
16434NOS Compression Fitting Brass Natural 1 8" NPT x 1 8" Tube 90 Deg Each | eBay

NHerron said:

Interesting about the remote mounting.

Another point brought up by the member steve was to prevent electric sender failer by remote mounting. Not 100% why it kept failure rate down but my guess would be the pressure spikes and by using the line, it acts as a buffer.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/437842-electric-oil-pressure-gauges.html

Discussion starts around post #19

Click to expand...

Wondered where that went..

Let us know how it goes

everthing whent great just the gauges have no light couldent figer out how to wire it the boost gauge is wired on to the curse control but have no idea where to wire or if i can just wire bothe of them to the same place i have two water and oil and boost already on the car

everthing when great but i dident know were to hook up the light the old boost gauge is on the cruze control should i hook it ther or i dont know im lost on that part

You know how to use a multimeter/voltmeter? If not, you'll want to figure that out eventually otherwise you'll pay bucks for other people to troubleshoot simple stuff and that would suck.

Anyway take your multimeter/voltmeter/test light and you want to find a key on power. That is, when the key is off a wire will have no positive 12v (+12V), but it will become +12V when the key is turned on. When you find this wire, splice one of the gauge wires into that wire. The other wire off the gauge will go to ground (any bare metal pretty much). A good source would be the cigarette lighter circuit. Remove the driver side right hand side panel (2 screws and a little wrestling will get the panel off) and you will see the back of the cigarette lighter. Two wire connectors on the back. Pull those off and splice into there and whala. If you want to get fancy, put in a switch and you can then turn on and off the gauge light.

i have two swiches instaled on to the car it came with it just left them there beause they were empty and if i took them off there would be two hold yes i understand how to wire them know i have a voltmeter my dad bought one today for his truck ground i got that part and 12v power i have the place to wire it well look i have three gauges all work but no ight and one has light what set up whould i use to put the two swiches that i have for i can turn them on and of when i want

Please fix your sentences and punctuation, I can't help if you're not making even near coherent sentences.

My bad well i have two swiches by the fuse box. How would i wire it to turn them on and off i have found the 12v power cable to wire the gauges for light.

Oh okay I see now.

Alright so take either your power or ground wire and cut it in half. Now look at the back of the switch and figure out what you got. If on the back side its just two flat blade terminals, buy two female blade terminals, crimp each terminal to the wire ends you just cut and slide the terminals on the back of the switch. I don't know how familiar you are with wiring but a switch does the same effect as manually twisting two wires together. All it does is conect two pieces of wire together to complete a circuit.

Matthew Visyak's How Metal DDR Pads Work Page

Hope that helps

Yes it has all the two flat blade terminals you think get me a photo of the whole set up please would be clear with it. on all three gauges of light set up? Thanks for the help

You want a diagram picture, picture of the back of the switches, or what exactly. I'm not too sure what you want to see.

i wouldnt be shocked if the obx gauge doesnt even read right

Like diagram of what wires go were like the gauge 12v power goes to??? And the switches I have what wire gose on gauges and switches of them to turn on and off

I'm on a tablet, my laptop took a crap on me. You said you found a key powered +12v wire right? Take the wire and crimp oneof these bad boys to the end of it. (Long enough to reach the switch)
Push-on Female Blade Terminal 4 8mm x 0 8mm Blue Crimp Pack of 100

Plug that onto one of the switches' terminals, it does not matter which. Now cut a piece of wire long enough to go from the switch to the gauge itself. Connect another one of those blade terminals to the end of the wire. Plug the connector onto the other blade terminal of the switch, just like the last one. Run that wire up to your gauge and connect it to one of the gauge wires (does not matter which one) using one of these.
Butt Splice Electrical Wire Connector | QC Supply

At this point you have one unconnected wire. That wire will need to be grounded, it is the other wire for the gauge bulb. It might be the easiest to just ground it to surrounding metal brackets. Now when the key is on it wilk send power to the switch and the switch will send power to the gauge light (assume the key is on and the switch is flipped on.

I was recently in a hit and run and on the oil housing was hit and snapped out the oil fitting and turbo fitting i turned the car off after i realized no oil pressure about 45second after i was hit and flew of the road is my turbo okay??? And how do i remove the fitting

Use this type of extractor. Its square. You just pick one that fits best, tap it in with a hammer and turn it out. Try tapping lightly first though since its a soft pipe fitting.
I wouldn't try the common type extractor (see: spiral extractor) because if for some reason you bust it off in there flush, you'll be in a world of hurt.

Thanks man your help is very appriciated my turbo ran with out oil for around 45 second is it fine? I will look for the extractor

No prob. I can't be certain but as long as you weren't boosting you should be fine. Best way to tell is take the intake boot off turbo and pull the compressor wheel shaft in/out. There should be no movement in/out and a tad bit side/side. Look for rubbing of blades obvious stuff etc

I was driving to work and the car hadent been started in 3hrs. warmed it up for 5 minits drove 2minits at 55 and no boost, slow drivind cuz it was cold and bang got hit? i have never check for shaft play

Well you should check it.

There is always the possibility of the wheel contacting the comp. cover and exploding sending shit into the engine. But shh I know know about that .

I checked and i can move i up and down like crazy. I can fit 8 pices of binder paper if not more

Can you take a pic just like this


To show the wheel and compressor cover