2G Do I Have a cooling issue?

Rock2610d · Jul 12, 2014

I have a new OEM style (aftermarket) radiator. A new Gates water pump. A new OEM (Mit) 180 degree thermostat. OEM fans work perfectly, coolant fan comes on at 210 degrees and shuts off at 200 or so. AC fan comes on with AC. All factory deflectors are in place and functional. I have also put tin over the factory holes next to the radiator. I still have factory SMIC....no front mount.

Engine runs at 200 to 206 degrees on highway, and will go to 213 at idle and slow speed driving. Is this normal?

Pipnorcali · Jul 12, 2014

Is that with the ac on? Seems high to me with a fluidyne and fmic i rub 196-200 with a max of 209 sitting in traffic on a 100degree plus day

Lou98GSX · Jul 12, 2014

it sounds normal . your temp gauge should be half way and at 212 your radiator fan comes on . so at 213 your fan should be running and your temp should be slowly going down .

stolenracer · Jul 12, 2014

thats normal around here. i have logged up to 220 on a 110 day. know i just keep fans on all the time when driving in summer

Rock2610d · Jul 12, 2014

Does not matter if ac is on or off. Temps are same. Link shows 200 to 206 on highway and gets up to 213 in stop and go traffic. Does not matter if its 50 degrees outside or 85 degrees.

stolenracer · Jul 12, 2014

if you dont want it that high just enable both fans in link it will cool off i was averaging 180-190 temps all day today with both fans on

Rock2610d · Jul 12, 2014

I checked the original thermostat....the one that came with the car in 1995. Cracks at 192 degrees and full open at 206. A stock replacement Stant 180 degree cracks at 190 and full open at 203. I will test my new OEM mit tomorrow. I may have to go to a 170 to get a 180 crack and 203 full open.

I ordered an AC Delco 180 Tstat. Maybe it will crack close to its stated temp. If not my last resort is the 170 stat. Maybe it will crack close to the OEM spec. This is pretty frustrating.

Rock2610d · Jul 12, 2014

stolenracer said:
if you dont want it that high just enable both fans in link it will cool off i was averaging 180-190 temps all day today with both fans on

Thanks but I should not have to do this. Car was designed to run without fans until 210 degrees or so. I think a stat that actually opens when it should is the best solution.

Rock2610d · Jul 14, 2014

New OEM (MIT) thermostat starts to let little bubbles thru the thermostat at about 192. Can't really tell when its full open at 206 I am at a full boil, ELEVATION! Its supposed to be a OEM 2G stat. Guess I will get a 170 and test it. This looks nothing like my original thermostat when I bought the car new. I will post photos soon but new OEM one is MUCH stiffer than the original OEM unit.

livedsm4g63 · Jul 14, 2014

There is no problem. If everything is stock, aim for under 215. 220 is starting to get rather hot.

I had a cooling issue once, car got over 230. 232-234ish. Once I noticed it I pulled over and let her cool down. I had to do this multiply times in order to get it home. Needless to say, the brief 230ish temps didn't hurt a thing.

Personally I run a 180 tstat, jump the fan relay, and I never see over 206 on a 100 deg day. On a normal day I see 195 consistently.

Rock2610d · Jul 15, 2014

I bought 2 more stats. Napa Stant brand 170 and 180 degrees. The 170 popped at 174 degrees and the 180 popped at 186. I have to drill a small hole in one for the bleeding of air. Will return the other. Which should I use?

NHerron · Jul 15, 2014

You seem pretty meticulous, which is cool pun intended. I don't see a problem either, but I would still go further on the maintenance and do a few more things.

-Flush the system:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/radiator-coolant-flush.445273/#post-153073205
-Test for electrolysis:
http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/VoltageDrop/testing_for_electrolysis.htm
-Pressure test the system.
-Check make sure recovery system has no leaks (basically just overflow hose)
-New rad cap.
-Get a bottle of water wetter.
-Make sure manifold/turbo has their heatshields.
-Check A/C system, replace air drier recharge to spec etc.

Rock2610d · Jul 15, 2014

Cap was replaced with radiator. A/C system was vacuum tested , new condensor and dryer, and filled last summer, works great. System was flushed when new radiator and water pump was put on a couple weeks ago. Overflow system working good, had to add a half quart or so after water pump and radiator R&R. No shields on turbo but do have one on manifold. Do the shields do that much while driving 70 mph?

NHerron · Jul 15, 2014

Damn well you're pretty well covered! No definitively not at 70. Just when idling. That's when the ding dongs with huge IC's, no ducting and no heatshield (mainly manifold) go 'why am I overheating around town'? No IC to condenser ducting causes engine bay to recir the hot manifold air instead of pull fresh from bumper opening. It's the small things in life I tell ya.

Rock2610d · Jul 16, 2014

Gates is the clear winner. Cracked spot on 180 degrees. Very well made comes with seal and has a bleed hole with a poppet in it just like OEM unit. Opens up a lot wider than all the others. The AC delco popped at 185. Made like the Stants. The Gates is not like a stant and very well made. Part number gates 33988. Great unit, can't wait to put it in.

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2G Do I Have a cooling issue?

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