Your picture looks suspicious but not confirmed. Are you saying the crank is at tdc and that's where the cam marks end up at?

NHerron said:

Your picture looks suspicious but not confirmed. Are you saying the crank is at tdc and that's where the cam marks end up at?

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The pic was before I had it tdc. When I actually set it at tdc it was off by a tooth and half.

What is off by a tooth? Crank at tdc and intake line up but exhaust off by tooth and a half? Or each cam is off a bit with crank at tdc...etc. You know what to look for with a leaking tensioner?

Is there receipts for the belt change? If there isn't, we can assume the seller lied and your belt is overdue. Redo everything with OEM tensioner and pulleys. Your choice of belt but OEM or better. I've gotten some of the name brand kevlar belts cheaper than OEM before.

crimsondragon said:

Is there receipts for the belt change? If there isn't, we can assume the seller lied and your belt is overdue. Redo everything with OEM tensioner and pulleys. Your choice of belt but OEM or better. I've gotten some of the name brand kevlar belts cheaper than OEM before.

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We pulled everything apart and discovered the balance shaft belt ripped which caused the jump.

Sounds like they changed the timing belt but didn't do the balancer belt. More often than not occurence. I found the same thing when I first tore my motor apart and the belt was supposed to have been done at the 60k mark but I had better luck than you.

crimsondragon said:

Sounds like they changed the timing belt but didn't do the balancer belt. More often than not occurence. I found the same thing when I first tore my motor apart and the belt was supposed to have been done at the 60k mark but I had better luck than you.

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Gonna buy one from my local parts store just to go to mod and back and then buy everything oem timing wise. So you think my motor will be ok? It jumped a tooth and 1/2 when we aligned the marks tdc. It only had 84k original miles

If it ran with the timing that much off I don't see why it won't with the timing correct.

I can't tell if its just the picture or not but it looks a little wet in the timing area. Personally, I'd park it until you can repair it correctly, which may possibly include replacing some seals either on the balance shaft, oil pump or the crank shaft. Oil on the new belt will cause it to fail right away.

crimsondragon said:

If it ran with the timing that much off I don't see why it won't with the timing correct.

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It's weird when it happened. I drove home from work fine, parked the car, and washed it. As soon as I started the car, it started idling low and bogging when I tried to drive it. Luckily when my brother tested the car it didn't get worse because he did a lil pull and nothing jumped nor any knocking was present. After that, we parked it and never turned it on since.

edged1g said:

I can't tell if its just the picture or not but it looks a little wet in the timing area. Personally, I'd park it until you can repair it correctly, which may possibly include replacing some seals either on the balance shaft, oil pump or the crank shaft. Oil on the new belt will cause it to fail right away.

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It's not wet, the flash on my phone made it look like that. We checked everything else and it's fine. However, I'm replacing the the whole timing with brand new and oem components when I come back from MOD

Fixed timing and it srtarted right up with no knocking. Close call :]

U can re-assemble your timing belt long enough to perform a compression test. If u have good compression on all cylinders your motor survived.

Too late. Looks like you're in good shape.

cheapracer said:

U can re-assemble your timing belt long enough to perform a compression test. If u have good compression on all cylinders your motor survived.

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And if you just have a couple of bent valves, you'll take the chance of punching holes in your pistons, scaring the cylinders, and causing even more damage.

He mentioned he already ran the motor with the jumped belt. Not sure how a compression test would punch holes in pistons... Unless valves were already mangled

Besides he already fired it up.

cheapracer said:

He mentioned he already ran the motor with the jumped belt. Not sure how a compression test would punch holes in pistons... Unless valves were already mangled

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I was referring to your suggestion in general.

If a motor jumps time just enough to bend a couple of valves, the engine will probably die almost immediately with a just a kiss or two on the piston tops. Putting it back together (new t-belt, resetting timing, etc) to do a compression test without knowing the full extent of the damage is asking for more trouble. Cranking on it and banging bent valves against a piston until they break off and possibly do more damage to the bottom end isn't something I would want to do.

A static leak-down test at that point is safer for the motor, and will tell a lot more about what is going on. If the leak-down test checks out, then do a compression test.

A leak down test would be safer. Wish i'd thought of it.