I'd check all the heat shields on the exhaust.

It's customary to provide additional information to an existing thread rather than repost the exact same in a new thread if you're not getting responses. There are two different types of "Limp Mode" with these cars. The first is an ECU/PCM fault mode when it detects an issue with one more more...

Yep, that's the critical area that far too often kills the TCU. The green transistor there is part of the voltage regulator and white hybrid IC on the other side of the cap has the logic to drive it.The yellow sleeved capacitors don't usually leak and the two bright orange caps are tantalum...

You'll be fine regardless. The most important change is the new ones don't leak like the originals. Sadly yours has and the solder around it has become porous. Hopefully the traces haven't failed and the voltage regulator with them. TCUs have this nasty habit of dumping 12v on the 5v rail when...

This is why I didn't mention it earlier. The LCA's are front end suspension parts. Have you checked/replaced them?

When I did the bushings on the front I found that the rear pin was rotted out like the ones in this thread. (Mine weren't quite this bad but they were loose and rusty) https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-lower-control-arm-rusted.410071/I actually changed the bushing first and had issues...

That's a good question for another Tech Article. I'm not sure if the comparison makes more sense between the USDM NA models or how they are different between the USDM Turbo models and the European NA cars?

I got that, but what wasn't clear is if the ECU turns on (CEL Light, Boost Gauge moves) when you first turn the key to the ON/RUN position or until you turn it to START (all the way).What happens if you get DSMLink to connect but don't actually start the car by stopping it from cranking...

I'm not sure what you're describing with the ignition switch? When does the ECU start up?

Doesn't look to me like either end is very clean and smooth. The pick up pipe looks corroded and the o-ring looks dry and dirty.

From here I couldn't guess. I suggest you continue with your multimeter since it looks like you have many splices in your wiring in that area.There are three things I was hoping to do with my post. One was to clarify which pin was pin 1 on the PTU connector since it's often confused. Second...

Factory 2G 4G63 and 4G64 ignition wiring1 1.25L/B (Coil 2-3) 2 BR/R (ECU 2-3) 3 1.25B Ground 4 W (Tach) 5 NC 6 2B/W (+12v) 7 B/L (ECU 1-4) 8 1.25B/W (Coil 1-4)Yours looks like it's done 1 B - L/B 2 W - BR 3 L - B/W (B?) 4 Y - W 5 NC 6 GR - B/W 7 BR - B/L 8 R - B/WPin 1 Would be the Black...

I guess you'll have to learn by dirty hands and busted knuckles.

Two different MAP sensors? Did it work this way before? I don't see KeyStart turned on why you're cranking and the battery voltage falls to 9.6V. Does it need a good charge? Not getting KeyStart usually implies a wiring issue. Is this a 2.1L engine? Why have you changed your Direct Access Load...

Rather than jump around with multiple threads it can be helpful to stick to one so everyone has history and can move forward instead of asking the same questions over and over.What vacuum lines you'll need will come into play as you get farther along. Typically, you need lines for your BOV...