Hey guys, I have a broken manifold stud. It's about half an inch inside the head. I tried to remove it using a Black&Decker #3 extraction screw and the tip broke off. lol. Any good ideas? Thanks.
I don't remember what happened but but I may have lost interest and stop reading the thread after your initial response, my bad. :coy:For future reference, this boost leak test tech article is a good reference."5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing...
If you have answered all of my questions in detail, your problem would have been resolved long ago. :pStuck open EGR = air out of the tail pipe. Question #5 in post #35.
You can either tap the starter until they line up OR you can stick a 1/2" drive/extentension through the hole on the driverside wheel well splash guard and rotate the engine (CW ONLY) until they line up.
:shhh: Defiant might hear you. :shhh:I don't multi task well and sometimes attention needs to be focused my business and personal life but I will slowly worked my way back in, I always do. :)
That only tells half of how it's hooked up, which fitting on the MBC is hooked to the J-pipe? Also, how sure are you that it's a ball and spring? All MBC's are suppose to go between wastegate and J-pipe, it's the fittings on the MBC that are suppose to be opposite between ball/spring and...
Different type of MBC's, ball and spring vs. bleeder, are hooked up and adjusted differently. Let's start with which type of MBC you have and how it's hooked up?
Have you forgotten what we discussed via pm, I will give you some time to edit some of your posts in this thread, I will not ask you again.1. If your crank mark is lined up in the picture you posted, your timing belt was not installed properly, the exhaust cam needs to be rotated CW one...
It would be pretty hard pressed to blame the CHRA for inconsistent fuel trims. :)7/05......I can't even remember who....I mean what I did last night. :D