I use a odyssey 925 battery on the subframe. You’re right the billet im is huge, tight fit. One other thing on my 1g, I had to fab a bracket for the throttle cable to fix properly. Do know if that’s the case for 2g.
I use the one from extreme psi 5” straight 2.5”-3” reducer. Fit fine, but It’s a struggle to get the 3” t-bolt clamp on, because of the thick O.D. 3.25” t-bolt clamp may be better fit.
Pretty much the same mods I’m running now with the exception of turbo, ex-mani and bigger injectors. It was an Internal gated hta68 v2, 10:1 engine, gsc s2,Fp exhaust manifold,JMF drag smim,fic 1100 high z pump gas walbro 400 pump, 840 low z secondary methanol a1000 pump, stock ignition coils...
I had the same issue, running dual slim fan, melted the factory connector. Upgraded to heavier gauge wires, same thing happened at the connection, added a relay, again the spades terminal melted on the relay. End up installing 2 relay (1 for each fan) no melting since.
I got a set as my secondary methanol injection. works great for this purpose. spray pattern looks good between injectors, lot of fuel at WOT. Can't tell you how they would idle or drive as primary injectors though.
With stock master cylinder and booster, on the CTS-V setup,it felt like I had no brake at time,cause the pedal travel was long .I also didn't like the "sudden stop" effort, I really had to stomp on the pedal and in that effort locked up the brakes. After the 3G master cylinder upgrade, it was...
FYI I got the Mitsubishi evo x pads for the my cts-v (4 pistons) calipers.
It will help to get the 3G master cylinder for either upgrade, not sure why you'll need 3G booster for one and not the other. I upgraded to 3G master and not booster and it works great for me.
I had this problem once when I mixed up and installed a 2g slave in a 1g. The bore size are different. Make sure the part store give you the right one.