I have a Sparco Sprint with the Sparco adjustable seat slider (00493) in my 1g by modifying a Sparco 600 seat base (Cutting the mounting tabs and welded as L shape to make it mounted as low as possible). As mentioned above that the position would be too high if you would install it as is...
It would depend for what kind of racing and what oil temp you have now. If the car is mainly for streets or sometimes drag racing, just go the B&M 70273 cooler or equivalent as already mentioned above. That would usually keep the oil temp somewhere between 100~120 degree C unless you do some...
From my experience as I had been using the ACT2900 for long. With the 2900, whatever I did with the clutch adjustment it would move the car around 7000 rpm by the clutch drag test. I couldn't make it higher. But if it was somewhere between 6500-7000 rpm, to be honest I had no issue with shifting...
OEM replacement would be good, like the one in the link below.Edit: I don't know why but it seems Amazon link is not working well for some reason.
Please search with "WESTAR EM9206" in Amazon or in google.
When a EVO 3 16g comes with its O2 housing, it would make the difference more significant. The EVO 3 O2 housing has the largest outlet ID. (Keep in mind that the EVO O2 housing outlet flange has a slight different angle than DSM.)1st-2nd pic : 14B O2 housing.
3rd-4th pic : EVO 1/2 16G O2...
Personally I wouldn't put the timing cover. I always visually make sure first that absolutely no leak from the front case/water pump, and the belt tension while and after the initial startup, and then put it back.
Many people start to think to put more air flow first by replacing the fans or turn on the fan earlier to prevent the coolant temp gets higher. But you should think about the coolant flow too. Even if you would put better cooling at the radiator, it wouldn't work well if the thermostat is still...
Spring pressure has nothing to do with the valve timing. What you need to pay attention first is lifter's height/valve clearance (lash). This is the reason why you must use solid lifters to degree cams. Without solid lifters, a degree wheel and a dial indicator, you can not know what position...
Maybe I am not understanding what exactly you are trying to do, but if I understood correctly, no this way won't work. Technically what you are doing is copying the stock cam ramp starting point. There is no point to do that since they have different ramp design. And even the starting position...
No, that's not.
I have a little write-up here, please refer this link below.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/shop-that-can-machine-1g-rods.541468/#post-153864189
Judging only by the valve cover, it's an EVO 4~6 or airtrek turbo.
If it's originally from an EVO 5+, it should have the revised split thrust block against the famous crank walk, but EVO 4.
The EVO 4 came with the non revised block with one-piece main bearing from factory unless the previous...