The "combination meter" is the gauge/instrument cluster. It sounds like you might have some more damaged wires or bad relays and/or fuses to track down.

I've always run Permatex "Right Stuff". Never leaked a drop, and I swear you could probably run the pan without bolts it holds it so well.

Still kicking around here and there. Been doing more with SRT4's as of late.

Sounds like a massive boost leak. If the car is on the stock MAF and there is unmetered air coming in somewhere it could do what you’re describing.EDIT: Is this the same car as your profile picture? If so, then it looks to be a 420a turbo car.

I might be able to help, but I need more pictures.

I second this! This is where I buy all of my couplers and clamps as well - the value can't be beat.

On every DSM I ever had, I always purchased the -10 AN bung for whatever turbo I was running and then welded a -10 AN bung into the pan. For line, I would use normal -10 AN fittings (like a 45 degree and a straight) that were not the push-lock type. I never had any leaks going that route. Ever.

You would be looking at purchasing a $7500-$8000 transmission once you're done. You could find one used, but they only pop up once in a while. My suggestion is just run a stock/refreshed transmission. Make sure you're running a good clutch (I preferred the Quartermaster Twins), and MAKE SURE...

Bump - Make some offers!

Radiator sold. Make some offers on the rest.

What are you looking to do with the car? That should dictate whether or not it is worth it (to you). I've always drag raced my cars, so an LSD rear is desirable to me. It's not that bad of a job, as long as you don't mind dropping the entire rear sub-frame. Doing it this way lets you get to...

That thing will TUR'BONE your goals. I'd pass on it like everyone else is saying. What kind of power are you looking at making? There are many more cost-effective options out there.

The only thing you need off of the OEM pump connector is the fuel pump trigger wire to drive the switching terminals (either 85 or 86). From there, red wire from the fuel sender gets power from the battery (or alternator post if you choose to feed from there - recommended). The grounds run to...

Can you draw a diagram of exactly how you have everything wired?

It could be one of a few things: 1. Improper return line size (too small). 2. Defective regulator. How does the diaphragm look? 3. If this is a 2G AWD, have you drilled out the siphon orifice? https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-awd-fuel-siphon-mod.350851/If you're using a stock AWD sending...