The shifting is still in the H pattern like all 5-speeds in the USA lol. You can push the clutch pedal in and shift around through the gears as well without oil in the engine as the crank is still not rotating your completely ok doing that.

.030 wire my bad lol. I used MAP gas and a non-contact digital thermomiter to make sure I didnt heat it to much before welding then I used the powdercoating oven to controll the slow cool down :hellyeah:.I think I went a tad overkill on the transmission welding but I ended up with all 4...

Was the t-case input splines ok as well as the output shaft of the transmission? They could of stripped and what your feeling is the slipping of the splines.

3rd front diff trans failure so I MIG welded the pin in after preheating the cast housing.Jon at TRE was giving me some ideas and tips to help the center diffs and this is what I did for a test. MIG welded after preheating the cast housing.All welds done with a Millermatic 90, solid...

Did you rebuild or take apart the driveshaft durring the swap? is it viberating under light throttle or only during a fast take off or WOT pull?

A picture would be helpful but as for it to pull harder than a 16g could be factored by to many other things as well like timing, other supporting mods, tuning, ect. But if your just seeing if you indeed have a 20g wheel then a picture would be helpful.

Poly is great on control arms. Make sure you use the provided lube though or it will start to squeak. I daily my talon with a driveline full of nothing but poly and it feels allot better than old stock rubber bushings by far.The rear peg on the back of the control arms tend to rust away...

I would not re-use any of them IMO. The composite gaskets for the turbos are JUNK. Get a felpro from the local auto parts store and then port out the stainless gaskets to match your specific needs. The gaskets are cheap in price and wont burn out if torqued properly. I bought mine for a 95...

Have you pulled the ECU for inspection? You could have a bad controller or something wrong on the board.If you know how to do delicate electronics like that I have spare controllers if yours in need. Pay the post mail postage and they are yours. If your not good with electronics then I...

I'm about to part my way out of the community BUT still help on fabing parts for the people who stay and new commers to the community. I will also get parts and cars and sell them for cheap or part out to help the DSM's stay arround for another few years.1994 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD...

I have a new turbo waiting along with other parts. I figured I would share that my full weight talon running NA on turbo pistons and bigger injectors ran good. I just have not had the time to install any of these yet because I'm busy watching my daughter all day and when Kayla don't work it's...

I had to plumb the MAF to the TB on my 94 AWD to limp it home NT AWD style lol. Ran great to be honest.The reason I did it was because the turbine shaft on my freshly built turbo is bent and I needed to get my car home. HDR PVC piping and a few rubber pipe couplers and a rag stuffed in the...

Once a wally goes bad or debris gets into the pump and locks the rotors, ITS FINISHED. Some have gotten lucky and dislodged the junk that was jamming the rotors BUT it's a throw away deal once its done.Make sure you don't have a leak inside the tank for the pump, did you set the base fuel...

My 94 talon is rolling up on the 101,000 mile mark here shortly.

Mine went deep past 20psi and bounced as it was bucking. I would get black smoke puff from the exhaust. Take the vac line from the wastegate and put it directly to a boos/vac source. You should be limited to around 10psi that way. Test a WOT pull and see if it goes over 15psi. If so then...