Was wondering if some of you guys could help me with my dsmlink settings. I feel like I have most of the settings dialed in ok but not sure where else to make adjustments. My main issue is running really high air fuel ratio at idle it will normally run around 16:1 to 17:1 after warmed up...

Yes after swapping out the o2 sensor it finally went into closed loop. Still oscillate up and down slowly so going to buy a new one and swap in.

Yes I did notice that today and felt like an idiot. That still did not help but I changed the o2 with one I had laying around and did solve the issue now into my next issue why one fan isn't coming on. Thanks for everyone's help. After I find out more on that wire I wss posting about I will...

So finally got back out to the car today. So if all settings for the car to be in closed loop are met and dsmlink still shows it isn't in closed loop is this caused by a bad o2? My o2 still doesn't cycle on idle but does move while driving.

Here is a log with a lot of idle time and a small drive. Looks to me like it isn't going into closed loop.

I will get a lot today. Still figuring out dsmlink so might take me a few. It basically stays at .06 or lower for a long time after I went for a drive it would move around only when the throttle was hit but would never cycle up and down. Thinking the o2 is bad because how much fuel the previous...

So I didn't cut the tape back past to see how they were connected. I have no reason to believe what they did was wrong if they did splice it or if it was factory. It just seemed out of the norm from what I would expect to see. As far as the white with the heat shrink that was my patch job from...

So removing the safc2 that was in my car and switching to dsm link I notice 2 wires that have possibly been modified but not positive may be factory just want to get input before I go further with it. It is pin 9 (detonation sensor) and pin 2 (diagnosis data transfer select terminal) both white...

That is great information that will help a lot.

Yeah I'll try that again I did it once because the FTRL was locked at 139 it dropped down to 117 next time I drove but climbed up to 130 but will try bumping it up to +30 and drive it again. Thanks again for your help.

So after taking your advice I adjusted SAFC2 to +20 and ran a lot better. Playing with fuel trims now to get it adjusted correct. Currently FTRL is around 125% so I'm I understanding this right I should go to maybe +30 or is that the wrong direction?

Lasershark sorry if it came off like I didn't believe you just trying to understand. I swear everything I read says negative and that's what is confusing me. You response makes a lot of sense and I'm going to try your suggestion as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for the help.

Is this correct? Everything I've read says -20 percent because the 2g MAF flows 20 percent more air not less right? That's why larger injectors balance it out. I could be miss understanding it and if I am someone let me know.All I have accomplished so far is getting valve cover off and...

Reset the ignition timing after switching the CAS it's set to 5 degree BTDC. My next steps are going to be pull valve cover off and compare the cams to stock, compression test, leak down test. Any other suggestions?

Can someone please confirm I'm not losing my mind. So finally got back to work on the car today first thing I wanted to check was CAS. So put the car to top dead center for cylinder 1 on compression stroke. Pull off the CAS and the marks were not lined up they were opposite. This 180 degrees out...