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1G Alternator

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AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
So my alternator stopped charging and I’ve read the write up on the Saturn alternators. In searching for a replacement I found the link below. Two things though.
1. It states that it’s 90 amp. Could this be false advertisement?
2. It states Canada. Will this fit all 1g dsm’s?

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http://www.lowmileageparts.com/1992...VmY7ICh0wbgwBEAkYBSABEgLVe_D_BwE#.WrBC0yIpCEc
 
I am with @mitsubishikid. Mine is a 96 Galant 90 amp alternator, plug and play but the parts store offers a "high amp" option when they look up alternators now and it is a 90 amp model. Use a 100 amp fuse like mitsukid. No grinding the block for clearance and all that stuff. Also...use LED bulbs where ever you can to take the load off the charging circuit and let it work for the ignition etc.
 
Just picked up the 100 amp fuse and ordered alternator from the link in OP. I did change all my interior bulbs to led. LED headlight bulbs are on my wish list since they're not too expensive now. I plan on changing all the exterior bulbs in the future. Will LED blinkers work with stock relays?
 
There’s no difference as far as fitment from auto to manual. Is that correct?

I ordered from low mileage parts.com yesterday and it hasn’t shipped yet. Did a little research and they have some complaints on BBB. Now I’m worried it’s not 90 amps or it won’t fit.

Good to hear I have options if this one doesn’t work out.

Thanks Bud!!

Seems like many members have had issues w alternators from retail stores not lasting. Figured this one is most likely made by mitsu but I could be wrong. That’s why I didn’t order from parts store. Should have it by early next week. Plan on bringing it to advanced to have them check first before installing. I’ll post results.
 
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Just picked up the 100 amp fuse and ordered alternator from the link in OP. I did change all my interior bulbs to led. LED headlight bulbs are on my wish list since they're not too expensive now. I plan on changing all the exterior bulbs in the future. Will LED blinkers work with stock relays?
LEDs arent without problems. Cruise control circuits on some cars see it as a burnt out bulb and cruise control won't work. Ask me how I know.
 
There’s no difference as far as fitment from auto to manual. Is that correct?

I ordered from low mileage parts.com yesterday and it hasn’t shipped yet. Did a little research and they have some complaints on BBB. Now I’m worried it’s not 90 amps or it won’t fit.

Good to hear I have options if this one doesn’t work out.

Thanks Bud!!

Seems like many members have had issues w alternators from retail stores not lasting. Figured this one is most likely made by mitsu but I could be wrong. That’s why I didn’t order from parts store. Should have it by early next week. Plan on bringing it to advanced to have them check first before installing. I’ll post results.

No there is no mounting difference. I killed my auto alt, and had to use the one from my parts car talon 5speed. Added a crap ton of leds and havnt seen any charging issues. :thumb:
 
Front, yes. Parking lights and corners. Stock relay, but the bulbs were from a vendor, not a dollar a dozen typical eBay leds. Had to get yellow for the corners, I have crystal headlights, not that it matters.
 
Hmmm. I never swapped out the fuse for the alternator after I did my Saturn alternator swap. It's been running well tho. :aha:

Honestly if I were you I'd put in a larger alternator fuse anyway, just because nothing has happened yet does not mean it's not on the way.

If you are using a 110 amp Saturn alternator, a 120 amp fuse should be good for your needs, you have little-nothing to loose by buying a $1-$5 fuse [or many wrecking yards would likely just give you one free] that matches your amps, honestly I feel it's worth it to do the job right.

A smaller fuse for the job could blow out prematurely, too big a fuse for the job could cause a damage to the device it's supposed to protect, or in the worst case it could potentially start a fire, last time I checked shooting yourself in the foot isn't really an Olympic sport just yet, but I'm sure a lot of us would be medalists by now LOL I'm just kidding, seriously be safe and get the right amp rated fuse for the job, if you can get the exact amp fuse for the job that would be ideal, but if you can't find one in that size and style get the closest fuse that is rated higher then the output rating of the alternator.

It's also worth noting that, using a thicker 4 gauge charge wire can be beneficial, especially if the old charge wires are damaged or corroded, new wire can have a really great effect on idle volts, and provides a more stable charging system to work with.
 
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You should never increase the size of the fuse. That is dangerous to do without determining the size of the wire and what amperage it is rated for. Without creating a 120 amp load you can not say you have tested a 120 amp fuse in the circuit.
 
Because the stock wires are 2 -8 gauge wires, 8 gauge is rated safely at 50 amps x 2 =100 amp max... there are Saturn alternators that only deliver 90-96 amps so these units might be good to go with the 100 amp alternator fuse, which is what I'm running with my 90 amp gvr4 unit.
 
Just picked up the 100 amp fuse and ordered alternator from the link in OP. I did change all my interior bulbs to led. LED headlight bulbs are on my wish list since they're not too expensive now. I plan on changing all the exterior bulbs in the future. Will LED blinkers work with stock relays?
I had to change my flasher in the console, under the radio, in my 1ga when I went with LED's. It is a digital flasher and flashes at a constant rate under any load, get them at the auto parts store.
Also I haven't had any problems with my auto parts store 90 amp unit, but I think excess heat does kill them.
@pauleyman , could that be why I can't get my cruise to work???
I can't even get the light on the dash to come on anymore and it worked for the first 2 weeks I had the car but has quit and I would LOVE for it to work again.
Marty
 
Front, yes. Parking lights and corners. Stock relay, but the bulbs were from a vendor, not a dollar a dozen typical eBay leds. Had to get yellow for the corners, I have crystal headlights, not that it matters.

Which vendor? I’d like to change all the exterior lights to LEDs but I am scared of the final cost

Canada 1Gs had 90A alternators, probably due to running daylights?

I see. It was shipped from CT so we’ll see. Can advanced auto parts test the amperage?
 
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I have a Saturn 200a alternator that I use a 100a fuse with. I believe it's fine to use a lower amp fuse but you take the risk of blowing the fuse out. I just haven't gotten around to installing my 225a fuse as the car has been getting other work done.
 
Honestly if I were you I'd put in a larger alternator fuse anyway, just because nothing has happened yet does not mean it's not on the way.

If you are using a 110 amp Saturn alternator, a 120 amp fuse should be good for your needs, you have little-nothing to loose by buying a $1-$5 fuse [or many wrecking yards would likely just give you one free] that matches your amps, honestly I feel it's worth it to do the job right.

A smaller fuse for the job could blow out prematurely, too big a fuse for the job could cause a damage to the device it's supposed to protect, or in the worst case it could potentially start a fire, last time I checked shooting yourself in the foot isn't really an Olympic sport just yet, but I'm sure a lot of us would be medalists by now LOL I'm just kidding, seriously be safe and get the right amp rated fuse for the job, if you can get the exact amp fuse for the job that would be ideal, but if you can't find one in that size and style get the closest fuse that is rated higher then the output rating of the alternator.

I agree. Was only $3 and I’m sure that’s the write way

It's also worth noting that, using a thicker 4 gauge charge wire can be beneficial, especially if the old charge wires are damaged or corroded, new wire can have a really great effect on idle volts, and provides a more stable charging system to work with.

I was looking at upgrading big 3 to 4g wires.

I had to change my flasher in the console, under the radio, in my 1ga when I went with LED's. It is a digital flasher and flashes at a constant rate under any load, get them at the auto parts store.
Also I haven't had any problems with my auto parts store 90 amp unit, but I think excess heat does kill them.
@pauleyman , could that be why I can't get my cruise to work???
I can't even get the light on the dash to come on anymore and it worked for the first 2 weeks I had the car but has quit and I would LOVE for it to work again.
Marty

Thanks Marty!! So I need is a digital flasher?

She’s been on jackstands for a week now. Feels like watching paint dry every time I’m in the garage. Can’t wait til Monday.
 
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Thanks Marty!! So I need is a digital flasher?
Yes. I picked mine up at O'rielly's but I am sure most parts stores stock them, just tell a knowledgeable parts guy what you are doing and ask if they have a replacement flasher that is for LED's, which will be a digital flasher. Mine plugged right in under the radio in the stock flasher location. They are very quiet, so you probably won't hear the "tick, tock" anymore but the turn signals will blink at a constant rate without the hyperblink problems.
 
Yes. I picked mine up at O'rielly's but I am sure most parts stores stock them, just tell a knowledgeable parts guy what you are doing and ask if they have a replacement flasher that is for LED's, which will be a digital flasher. Mine plugged right in under the radio in the stock flasher location. They are very quiet, so you probably won't hear the "tick, tock" anymore but the turn signals will blink at a constant rate without the hyperblink problems.

Awesome!! I’m lucky I have two knowledgeable guys at advanced that know their stuff. It gets frustrating when you get the new guy/gal. I try to be patient until they flat out lie because they’re not sure.
 
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