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98 GS-T questions

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devintaylor1998

Probationary Member
24
0
Jun 16, 2017
Berlin, Wisconsin
hey guys, just became a part of the DSM community (finally). The one I am in the process of buying is a 1998 GS-T with some mods (Greddy axle back I do believe, 16g turbo, Greddy type S BOV, greddy boost controller, 650cc injectors, other stuff I can't think of right now but I will post later) but it has boost leaks and runs super super rich. The coupler from the intercooler piping to turbo inlet is dryrotted (the guy just wrapped some duck tape around it to help reduce leaks, also if anyone knows of where I can just get a coupler that would be really helpful) and the air intake (coupler?) is ghetto but it's an Injen and I'd like to save it if possible. I couldn't complain at all, car was less than 2 grand with a little over 150xxx miles. Guy also claims it has a 6 bolt but I won't know until I pull off the flywheel (if there's an easier way, please let me know). I know I need an AFR, and some ECU parts to get it tuned. I make about 400 weekly working where I do and would rather go a cheap but reliable way for upgrades, so if anyone knows of reliable cheap parts such as ECU parts so I can get it tuned and a cheap yet reliable AFR gauge that would be helpful in many ways. Also would like your guys opinions on Glowshift, I hear they aren't the best but if it makes due for now I'd go with that. Sorry for the long post but I need all the help I can get haha. Thanks for all the help
 
I think you can look at the oil pan to check for 6/7 bolt differences. Do a search for that. What ecu parts are you referring to? Go to the silicone intakes website and look for the size coupler you need. Lots of places sell couplers including Amazon.
 
Vegas Smith I'm looking for kind of a similar part to an ECMLink, and need a cheap air/fuel Ratio guage so whatever is best for the cheapest amount haha. And spideydsm99 I'll run to the parts store tomorrow and see if they got any in stock, if not I'm sure they can order some in
 
There has to be something on there to tune for that fuel, or the guys an idiot. Get a compression test done too btw. Most any online retailer will have the couplers. Even Amazon can probably 2-say ship them for you ;P

As for tuning, whats the build date on the car? If you look at your ecu and its encased in black plastic, you can use evoscan and ecuflash to log and tune your car for pretty cheap. I do that with my '99.

Edit: Glowshift is fine for a mechanical boost gage or a simple volt gage.. but I'd go AEM or innovate for wideband AFR.
 

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Yeah everyone else that I asked (local) said to go with either AEM or Innovate. I know AEM is decent, but I'll take your guys' word on Innovate, and I'll check them out. I forgot to mention it has an upgraded fuel pump also, think the guy said it's a 225 Walbro? Idk I asked the guy lastnight how it ran before the couplers went and he said it ran great, no issues or anything. So hoping I can just replace those without any issues or anything
 
Pauleyman and turbotesh sorry for not responding until now and I'm not sure. The guy said some dumb s*** and I knew more about the car than he did LOL. I checked the plugs and stuff and like I said, smelt of gas extremely bad but I won't be able to check the ECU until I actually pick up the car on July 8th, I mean the guy and I have a contract written out on the car. As soon as I get it, getting a compression test and probably buying turbo coupler's for it too, I have a 3 hour drive back with it and the last thing I want happening is it breaking down on the highway. I suppose it's hard to explain what I mean I without pictures haha. I'll try to get some today
 
Hell, I'd buy a coupler for it right now off Amazon so that when you get there you can throw it on immediately. I mean, they're like $10. If you don't buy the car then just clean up the coupler and send it back.
 
Spideydsm99 the compression seemed alright though, I mean It turned over after 4 clicks haha. When I hit boost in it (always gotta see what the car can do on a test drive) it picked up right away but like I had said before the boost leaks made it lag. Didn't feel like fuel cut at all either, she still scooted haha. The only thing I wasn't to sure on though was the rust because being from Wisconsin, they put salt on the roads to get rid of ice (I know, morons... ) but the underbody wasn't bad at all and the only spot of rust was on the passenger strut tower (typical of 2G's to get rust here) but it was mostly surface. The guy did one thing right and parked it during the winter.
 
Vegas Smith that's what I was planning on doing haha. I already got some miscellaneous parts ordered (shift knob because it doesn't come with that, besides the MOMO one on there is garbage) but I won't have the extra money to order one until this Friday when I get paid. Lol
 
Oh, since I don't have the car and can't just necessarily walk outside to measure it, does anyone know the inlet size for a 16g turbo? I just want to make sure I buy the right size. It's the stock side mount yet (still debating if I want to get a front mount, also read on another thread that a Supra side mount is a good upgrade?) and stock piping (plan on hard piping after I get the car home, just don't have the funds or place to do it hence it's still 3 hours away haha)

Edit: found the dimensions, outer inlet size is 2.25 inches (found in another thread) but don't know the size of the stock intercooler piping. My guess is that it's 2.5-3 inches or something along those lines

Edit #2: thinking so hard about this it's giving me a headache, I can't remember if it's a 90 off of the turbo or if it's straight. Someone help me out on that LOL
 
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Grab a tactrix 2.0 cable download ecuflash n tune those injectors and fix those boost leaks. No need to spring for ecmlink.

Alright, will do. If I just type it in a google search or something will it pop up?

Edit: found one by Cobb, hopefully I can just do some type of "plug n play" deal with it IF I can get it to fit.
 
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You're planning on fixing a broken, unknown shape car and driving it 3 hrs after purchase? Bad plan.

It runs and drives. Just a boost leak, that's all. I mean for 1600 I can't complain. And with just a little over 150xxx miles it isn't bad either
 
Just go to the website tactrix.com or search the evolutionm site might get lucky and find one cheaper in classifieds. Make sure it's the 2.0 not 1.3 and double check behind the radio to be sure it's a black plastic ecu not metal. Under your steering wheel if you look you will see the obd2 port and a white plastic connector that's the reflash port for ecuflash. Before 98 they don't have that white connector, granted it's not hard to add.
 
If you are sure that's all that's wrong.

Yes the coupler is dryrotted, now the only thing I can't remember was if it was a 90 degree pipe or straight, LOL. And it doesn't have a radio to come with so that'll be easy to check, thanks 802gst
 
Okay, so I found a tactrix 2.0 with the ECUFlash OBD2 port plug in on Wish (not sure if I trust it) and just want your guys opinions. I'll have a link to it below, also. Which kind of laptop do you guys recommend? I want one that i can start building on for not only 4G63's but my buddies cars too (this way they don't have to pay a bunch for a shop to do it) so I can run a bunch of different tuning programs. Like I said before I don't make much money, only a little over 400 a week.

Here's a link to that Tactrix 2.0 w/ECUFlash:

https://www.wish.com/m/c/58a5a411c2...ntry_code=US&gclid=CM_80a_dzNQCFQgLaQodG6INlw
 
I think I bought a random Dell laptop on Craigslist for $100. You don't need anything special for tuning software.

Alright, Well that's good to hear, that defiantly won't break the bank then. As for the Tractrix, any info on that? That'll work with the car wouldn't it?

Edit: intake to turbo coupler, and intake manifold coupler. The intake manifold coupler is the one I defiantly need. Also the intake coupler, I'm just going to purchase two straight couplers on Friday and make due with them
 
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