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Street Build '97 Eclipse AWD GS-T (2006 to Present)

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11MAY2016 - Final Sparco Evo II Seat & CNC Staging Brake Mounting
I came to the conclusion that if I wanted the Sparco seat in my car and not in my living room I had to take the leap and forget the idea of having bolt in brackets. Doing so would mean eliminating the OE seat brackets which means I could never use my black leather driver seat again. :cry:

My go to fabricator doesn't just weld bungs and exhausts, he typically builds NASA race cages so I spoke with him about his thoughts on installing the seat and he said bring it by his place and he'd knock it out no problem. I told him my concerns with the headliner clearance with my helmet as well as door panel clearance with the seat back, I also asked him to mount the CNC stage brake and a place to bolt the stock seat belt receiver.

BING BANG BOOM, some magic happened, and then he called me to come get the car...

To fix the head clearance issue he removed the factory seat brackets that are spot welded to the floorboard. After dropping the seat to the floor the issue to push the seat further towards the center of the car was the problem (because of the door panel clearance). He removed the floorboard around the driveshaft tunnel and pushed it as far towards the center as possible, then welded int a piece of 3/8" steel. In the image below you can see the piece he welded in to create a new tunnel and where the old tunnel was, doing this pushed the seat inboard approximately 2".

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I told him I wanted to retain the factory 3pt seat belt, as using a 4 or 5pt harness is bad news without a roll cage. In the event of a crash, the OE 3pt seatbelt allows you to fall towards the center of the car if the roof collapses. In a 4 or 5 point harness, you don't have that option of falling forward because it holds you up upright and in place, and the crushed roof meets your head and will compress your spine which means your dead if the roof crushes. I don't PLAN on rolling the car but I'd like to have a shot at surviving if I ever do. He welded another chunk of steel to the side of the new driveshaft tunnel for support and welded up a nut for the OE 17mm seatbelt bolt to thread into. I used a rear seat cloth seatbelt because it was shorter and a lot more flexible than the fronts, that way I could use it with the Sparco seat.

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The mount for the stage brake he placed on the hump on the floorboard, up against the kick panel which was a perfect location to launch with the brake and put my hand right on the shifter.

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After he was done fabricating everything up this is what the finished result looked like. I still needed to drill a hole in the floor to run the wideband back down to the exhaust and then coat the floor and underside of the car to prevent corrosion but I was amazed at all the work he did and how well it fit.

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For the finished look I quickly installed the carpet and rerouted the seatbelt harness to see what it looked like and how it drove, I don't think I took a corner going slower than 40mph even at the stop lights. LOL

So I took a ton of pictures and couldn't have been happier with my decision, time to make a gaming chair out of the stock leather seat now I guess.

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As far as the weight savings benefits of this, they aren't too bad either and I ended up needing the heaviest of the Sparco seats to fit me.
Stock power leather seat - 47.6lbs
Stock seat bracing/hardware - 2.8lbs
---------------------------------------------------
Sparco Evo II seat - 20.5lbs
Sparco aluminum side mount brackets - 3.3lbs
Floor mount and seat bracing - 4lbs
Total weight loss - 22.6lbs
 
Is the seat centered to the steering wheel? I modeled some seat brackets in SW to fit the stock floor and put the seat as low as possible, but since I don't have a seat in my hands I don't know if they'll work.
 
It's close but no, it's not centered on the steering wheel perfectly. This particular seat is as far inboard as possible and it's still offset by about an inch from center on the steering wheel.

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At the risk of sounding pious, I'll go ahead and say I rarely read that many concurrent posts here on the forums and actually enjoy it.

ALL of your posts delivered, Corey. ALL of them.

So much win here, I'm not sure where to start. I suppose I'll lead with my biggest question: Did the new valve springs fix your float issue?
 
Hey corey this thing is getting better and better one of my favorite builds of all. I'd like to see it on person we've met but not the car. If I'm in Phoenix again I'll hit you up. I'm glad you got a chance to rest and happier to see more updates. I'm looking to upgrade my seats any reason you got that particular brand of seat.
 
So much win here, I'm not sure where to start. I suppose I'll lead with my biggest question: Did the new valve springs fix your float issue?
I appreciate it, Brett. As you know from your own build thread it takes a few hours to find the photos, resize them, and then post each update in detail so I'm glad you were able to get something out of it too.

I wish I knew the answer to that question, currently I have no idea if replacing the valve springs did anything. You'll see in the next few updates about a issue I found a few month ago and never got the chance to test the car out. Buzz kill. LOL

Hey corey this thing is getting better and better one of my favorite builds of all. I'd like to see it on person we've met but not the car. If I'm in Phoenix again I'll hit you up. I'm glad you got a chance to rest and happier to see more updates. I'm looking to upgrade my seats any reason you got that particular brand of seat.
I wanted a fixed back seat that had good reviews about comfort. A lot of info out on other platforms forums about race seats and Sparco kept coming up. I also wanted something that would help with weightloss and fit me (waist and height) properly.
I landed on the Evo II after I took a few measurements.

I probably could have found something cheaper, I think I paid $700 for the seat, but I knew what I was getting and that it would fit me like I wanted.
 
At the risk of sounding pious, I'll go ahead and say I rarely read that many concurrent posts here on the forums and actually enjoy it.

ALL of your posts delivered, Corey. ALL of them.

So much win here, I'm not sure where to start.


This^. Been out of the scene for about five years now (marriage, buying house, buying a actual reliable vehicle :p) and this thread gives me motivation to hop back on the wagon. Keep it up.
 
I appreciate it and I completely I agree with you. It's tough to find the time, motivation, and extra cash to spend on the DSM when you're busy getting married, paying off a new car loan, paying off a mortgage, working on stuff around the house that breaks, and trying to get a degree. The one thing I don't have (yet) are kids and if/when I throw that on top of my pile of responsibilities my next purchase for the DSM would be a nice car cover because that's where it would be going for a LONG time.

The responsibilities that come with adulting make it hard to find time for hobbies for sure, hopefully when you're ready you get back into it and can enjoy it.
 
06OCT2015 - Deleting Unused Waterpipe Connections


I pulled the t-stat housing, water pipe, radiator inlet/outlet connections, and radiator to get the new 16AN fittings welded up and the fittings cut/welded closed to eliminate the need for the rubber caps.

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Here's what everything looked like bolted up and installed.
I came across a post saying that deleting your lines you create additional pressure. Are you concerned at all with this? http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-bypass-the-thermostat-when-eliminating-heater-core.441066/
 
I came across a post saying that deleting your lines you create additional pressure. Are you concerned at all with this? http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-bypass-the-thermostat-when-eliminating-heater-core.441066/
Creating additional pressure in the coolant system effectively increases the coolants boiling point, which also pulls heat from motor more efficiently too. Nothing to be concerned about there!

I run a 19psi radiator cap (stock is 13psi) and for every 1psi of pressure the static boiling point is increased 3*. A 50/50 coolant mixture has a boiling point of 226* under no pressure, flowing through a 19psi coolant system you increase its boiling point to 270*+. I also run a 20/80 (20% antifreeze) mix with a bottle of WaterWetter since I live in the desert and my DSM never sees ambient temps below freezing, I put the coolant in the system strictly for its anti-corrosion and lubricating properties. This mixture under no pressure at all has a boiling point of roughly 250*F, which is ~ 25*F higher than a 50/50 mix so under 19psi the boiling point of the coolant in my DSM is well over 280*.

All that being said, if you look at the images in the link you posted you'll notice that the 1g coolant system is a bit different than a 2g. What 3kgt2nv did was clever but because of the design of the 2g coolant system that isn't necessary when eliminating the heater core/FIAV lines.
 
So corey being in the desert the radiator cap is more efficient your using. I forgot you still on the stock bottom .
 
Creating additional pressure in the coolant system effectively increases the coolants boiling point, which also pulls heat from motor more efficiently too. Nothing to be concerned about there!

I run a 19psi radiator cap (stock is 13psi) and for every 1psi of pressure the static boiling point is increased 3*. A 50/50 coolant mixture has a boiling point of 226* under no pressure, flowing through a 19psi coolant system you increase its boiling point to 270*+. I also run a 20/80 (20% antifreeze) mix with a bottle of WaterWetter since I live in the desert and my DSM never sees ambient temps below freezing, I put the coolant in the system strictly for its anti-corrosion and lubricating properties. This mixture under no pressure at all has a boiling point of roughly 250*F, which is ~ 25*F higher than a 50/50 mix so under 19psi the boiling point of the coolant in my DSM is well over 280*.

All that being said, if you look at the images in the link you posted you'll notice that the 1g coolant system is a bit different than a 2g. What 3kgt2nv did was clever but because of the design of the 2g coolant system that isn't necessary when eliminating the heater core/FIAV lines.
Thank you so much for the explanation! I have a 6-bolt swap and going to go with a 2g head using the 2g t-stat housing and would like to clean up as much as I can from the water pipe since I have deleted the heater core and FIAV. Was concerned when I ran across that post. Love your build I will definitely be copying you for some things!
 
So corey being in the desert the radiator cap is more efficient your using. I forgot you still on the stock bottom .
No. The radiator cap I'm using would benefit no matter where you live, increasing pressure in the coolant system increasing its boiling point. I was just pointing out that I can get away with running less antifreeze out in the desert because it doesn't freeze here.
Thank you so much for the explanation! I have a 6-bolt swap and going to go with a 2g head using the 2g t-stat housing and would like to clean up as much as I can from the water pipe since I have deleted the heater core and FIAV. Was concerned when I ran across that post. Love your build I will definitely be copying you for some things!
Yea, no problem. Glad I could help! Thanks for the compliments.
 
Waiting for the next updates on this.

Been around for a few years, never had a properly working car yet, and I'm on 3. Got hosed on #2, but whatever.

#3 is on the road, and needs work, this build thread is giving me the power of grayskull to carry on.

Thumbs way up Corey, keep it up!
 
Thanks for all the likes and the comment, Shampoo. I'm not sure if these cars ever properly worked from the factory so you're crazy to have had 3 of them. Either way, I'm glad you were able to pull some inspiration from the few photos I've taken along the way and hopefully you can enjoy your 3rd DSM.
 
24MAY2016 - Manifold Blanket from TPP

My coolant temps were right where I wanted them while I was driving at around 165-170* but when I'd let the car idle in the driveway for a few minutes or sitting at a stop light they'd creep to 190-200* even with the fan at full tilt in just a few minutes. I'm really limited on what push fans I could use with my AFCO radiator inside the radiator support because of the clearance to my FMIC core. So instead of throwing more fan at the car I thought the next best option would be to try and keep more heat inside the exhaust first and off the coolant water pipe that runs between the block and the exhaust manifold.

My first take, it works! The tough 5 minute install had me hungry for some Taco Bell so I drove down to The Border and sat in the lunch rush drive-thru to see how the car reacted. Phoenix was a cool 100*F ambient around noon that day and when I pulled into the drive-thru my CT's were steady at 170*, when I pulled out of Taco Bell 10m later they had only creeped to 185*.


I know the results aren't timed with any controls but trust me, sitting at a stop light CT's would climb 15-20*F in just a minute or two. Next time I pull the exhaust manifold I'll be ready to go a step further and wrap the water pipe in reflective heat tape but for now the manifold blanket functions as intended.

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31MAY2016 - Garage Upgrades for the DSM
If you hadn't noticed the pile of shit on the perimeter of the garage walls was getting taller and taller ever since we had the house built in 2012. The only solution was installing some cabinets but being a home owner anytime I spend money on the house I'd like to think I'm increasing its value too so the Lowe's/Home Depot cabinets weren't going to cut it. I wanted something that was built in, durable, matched the interior of the house and was going to be functional for crap that I'd be throwing in it (DSM parts). I finally found a local company that had the materials that I needed and was within my budget.

I never had so much fun clearing out the garage knowing I'd have storage to throw everything in once the cabinets were installed.

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After the install was complete I filled the shelves and put the car back into its new home.

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Next on the long list of garage "to-do's" is getting a proper roll around tool box to put towards the front of the garage instead of the B.S. portable one I still use from apartment living.

If any of you reading this live in the Phoenix area and need some solid garage cabinets. Triton Cabinets & Storage
 
06JUN2016 - Relocating Coolant Overflow Revision
If you can remember, when I installed the AFCO radiator I also installed a universal coolant overflow I bought at the local auto parts store from this post back in June 2013. --> AFCO Install Part IV

Well, after 3yrs of spirited driving around the corners through town and a dozen or more launches at the drag strip that plastic POS wasn't cutting it. I needed something that could take a corner faster than 15mph or 60' less than 2 seconds without the fear of the plastic mount breaking and dumping coolant all over my front passenger tire.

The price of a polished overflow wasn't something I was interested in paying, especially since I would have needed something custom since I couldn't find anything that's designed to mount in the SMIC location. I still had my OE coolant overflow tank and bracket, I just needed to figure out a solution to mount it in the stock SMIC location. While I was under the car with my thinking cap on I noticed I still had the factory horn mounted to the frame and remembered I "deleted" the horn when I installed my Evo steering wheel. I pulled the horn and the steel bracket that held it to the frame, then moved it to the passenger wheel well where the SMIC was mounted. I hammered a bit on the OE coolant overflow bracket to get it to a 90* bend and viola!

The steel bracket from the horn and reusing the existing bracket from the stock overflow gave me a solid place to mount the OE overflow tank without worrying about it falling off. It isn't going to win awards for show but since it's tucked under the frame rail and behind the wheel well guard it doesn't need to.

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I remember being pretty skeptical when I first bought my TPP manifold blanket. I also thought $100 bucks was expensive for what essentially looks like a big diaper. Now, I'd never go back to a heat shield on 1837.

I think mine is a few years old at this point, and it still works and looks great. I've had it on and off the car at least a half dozen times, and it wasn't until the last time I actually saw any wear.

The TPP blanket made me a believer. I picked up a PTP turbine housing blanket for additional insulation.

Some pics of my TPP blanket after plenty use and abuse: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsis-galant-vr4-1837-2000.482807/page-13#post-153651119
 
Youre suppose to race the old whiskey dent this fall now that it's not 100 degrees at night anymore.

Or is it a garage ornament this year ;p
It's currently a garage ornament, shooting to get it drivable by the New Years but that might be stretching it with the amount of work that needs to happen and my current level of busy. Here's to hoping though!
 
Quick question, did you remove the divider in the EDM tailights? It seems from your video the whole light lights up. With the divider there should be a dark spot between bulbs.

Just caught my attention.

Notice the gap of darkness in mine.

 
Quick question, did you remove the divider in the EDM tailights?
Sure did and you're the first person to notice. My only hangup on the EDM tails was the light distribution but when I realized it was only a divider and it could be removed I bought the EDM tails. I never cared for the look with the divider there because (to me) it looks like there's a burnt out bulb.

Nice attention to detail man. :thumb:
 
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