EC17PSE
Freelancer
- 5,893
- 3,485
- Nov 1, 2008
-
London, UK,
Europe
So its been a while and I thought I would make a proper thread on this.
My plan has been to make adjustable upper wishbones for the front and rear for some time now, my later plan is to also make all the arms including the front lower compression arm!!! Thats a big task but for now the uppers, I have had plans and drawings for about a year but didnt like the design i thought out so they was scrapped, NOW i had now decided on a design i think is better and the best option in terms of ease of adjusting and strength. So much so that I have now comitted and have all the parts i need to actually mock up a jig soon and build these.
Starting with the fronts then i will sort the rears out as the rear is a bit easier as i dont have to add another spherical for the knuckle/top joint so is a bit easier to design.
I wish i knew how to put all this onto a system to show in 3D modeling but im not very good with that stuff so drawings might have to make do.
The tube i am going to be using is CDS (no seams) 25mm x 2mm wall! I had considered 1.5mm wall but just thought it might be on the risky side of things so 2mm will be stong enough.
All the rod ends and sphericals are teflon injected race series bearings from a motorsport company here in the UK! No crap cheap bearings here. I opted for a spherical outer bearing as I feel for now this to be the better option but I have considered the coleman racings balljoint and that is still a possibility but not just yet. Yes it may look cleaner but and I might make a set up and check them out after ive used these for a while but for now I will stick with my design and see how it pans out.
All bolt hardware is going to be 12.9 grade zinc socket cap bolts for high strength.
All locking hardware, jam nuts and lower metal locking nuts (no nylocs) are all stainless steel for long life, the metal locking nut for the lower is self locking and can be reused several times from what I have read online so worth the extra cost.
If you all have any questions please ask or any feedback and thoughts i will gladly try and explain as best as I can. I plan to have the jig made and my sets made up by the end of july or sooner.
Pictures are just of the parts i got in today. I will add my drawings and pictures sometime soon
My plan has been to make adjustable upper wishbones for the front and rear for some time now, my later plan is to also make all the arms including the front lower compression arm!!! Thats a big task but for now the uppers, I have had plans and drawings for about a year but didnt like the design i thought out so they was scrapped, NOW i had now decided on a design i think is better and the best option in terms of ease of adjusting and strength. So much so that I have now comitted and have all the parts i need to actually mock up a jig soon and build these.
Starting with the fronts then i will sort the rears out as the rear is a bit easier as i dont have to add another spherical for the knuckle/top joint so is a bit easier to design.
I wish i knew how to put all this onto a system to show in 3D modeling but im not very good with that stuff so drawings might have to make do.
The tube i am going to be using is CDS (no seams) 25mm x 2mm wall! I had considered 1.5mm wall but just thought it might be on the risky side of things so 2mm will be stong enough.
All the rod ends and sphericals are teflon injected race series bearings from a motorsport company here in the UK! No crap cheap bearings here. I opted for a spherical outer bearing as I feel for now this to be the better option but I have considered the coleman racings balljoint and that is still a possibility but not just yet. Yes it may look cleaner but and I might make a set up and check them out after ive used these for a while but for now I will stick with my design and see how it pans out.
All bolt hardware is going to be 12.9 grade zinc socket cap bolts for high strength.
All locking hardware, jam nuts and lower metal locking nuts (no nylocs) are all stainless steel for long life, the metal locking nut for the lower is self locking and can be reused several times from what I have read online so worth the extra cost.
If you all have any questions please ask or any feedback and thoughts i will gladly try and explain as best as I can. I plan to have the jig made and my sets made up by the end of july or sooner.
Pictures are just of the parts i got in today. I will add my drawings and pictures sometime soon
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