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Most of the guys are using the AMS 1000 for that, since it's dual channel. LPR racing has the mechanism IIRC. Mostly used for the guys that have the front end come up ~300-600' down track, they start with it facing backwards to let the car hook up, then redirect the exhaust flow for downforce, then rotate it back down at the top end for less drag.
 
What they said! LOL

Was thinking you could use it to help fight some weight transfer and keep better contact up front perhaps? Then flip it back down around the middle of 2nd
 
Well as soon as my car develops a wheelie issue, not created from bouncing, I'll put the aux channel on my ams-1000 to good use :) LOL. That is pretty cool just not something I think would be worth the time/effort/money on my car.
 
Making a little bit of progress on the K member. Once its all finished I plan on making a jig off of it to make a few more.
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Got the rest of the k member drawn up, unfortunately I don't think it ll be done this weekend. A couple parts didn't show up in time. Hopefully next weekend though.
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Whats your plan for the lower control arms?
They will be tubular as well. A factory lower ball joint will be used, which is whats slowing the process down right now. Had to have lower ball joint bearing sleeves machined to get everything to work properly.
 
Making progress on the k member. Only weighs 12.8 lbs right now :) I'm expecting it to be under 25 when finished with the lca's bolted up.
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Looking good, I'm interested to see the LCA design. Good job!
 
What tubing bender did you use on the pipes for your front end?

Thanks!
 
Awesome. Thanks man. I was looking at the Pro Tools 105 for a bender but after adding up the price of a couple dies and accessories it seems a little steep. The JD2 looks to be equally as capable and a little easier on the wallet. Have you used any other bender to compare the JD2 32 to? Also was there any specific reasoning behind using 1 5/8 tubing for your lower rad. support/ front engine mount?
 
Awesome. Thanks man. I was looking at the Pro Tools 105 for a bender but after adding up the price of a couple dies and accessories it seems a little steep. The JD2 looks to be equally as capable and a little easier on the wallet. Have you used any other bender to compare the JD2 32 to? Also was there any specific reasoning behind using 1 5/8 tubing for your lower rad. support/ front engine mount?
The dies are pretty expensive, regardless of brand. I've used a pro tools 105 and I honestly prefer the jd2. I used 1 5/8 mainly just because I had a bunch laying around. I've used 1.5" .065 on others cars as well. I also planned on towing the car from the bar as well, using a quick release setup which ended up working out well. But I still feel 1.5" would be fine for that as well. Probably wouldn't go any smaller though.
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The lower ball joint sleeves showed up as well. So as soon as the weather warms up I'll be getting back on the k member. I believe I'll add a driveshaft loop to the k member also, to simplify things.
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Also, ended up selling the super99, as well as the current setup off the car. After more thought I didn't really think the super99 was going to be able to make any more power then what I already had. Ended up ordering a billet 76mm with a slightly larger turbine wheel then the gt42. Should supply enough airflow to pickup 150-200 more hp then the setup I was running. Will also be switching to a twin scroll setup using dual mvs38's.
 
The dies are expensive! Haha. At first I thought that you may have used the 1 5/8 tubing to comply with safety regulations at the track. What wall thickness did you use for the 1 5/8 tubes? Thanks again for the info. Many props on the work!
 
Small update on the car. The new turbo arrived Friday, after I get the K member out of the way I'll start on a new divided manifold using dual mvs 38's. Got the collector cut also while I was working on some other stuff.
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Also made another rwd 4g63 oil pan this weekend, were going out of town next week with the 4g mustang for a race and wanted to have a complete back up motor ready to drop in, just in case. Pan is made from 3/16" aluminum and is internally baffled. Had a local waterjet company cut the flange out.
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After that was out of the way got a little bit done on the control arms for the K member. Got the left side mounting tabs located and welded on and the control arm about 50 percent finished. Looks like it going to end up weighing 22 lbs all said and done with the tubular control arms. Ran out of propane for the garage, hopefully finish it up next weekend. The picture on the scale shows what all the stock stuff weighs, I forgot to include the rear motor mount so it all probably weighs closer to 65 lbs total.

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Small update on the car. The new turbo arrived Friday, after I get the K member out of the way I'll start on a new divided manifold using dual mvs 38's. Got the collector cut also while I was working on some other stuff.
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Oh my.... OMG That is gonna be wicked Aaron! :hellyeah: Very nice and really nice work on the oil pan. :thumb: Good luck with the Stang! :D
 
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