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$50 Rustoleum paint job bad idea?

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As long as you do the proper prep have at it
 
If you do it step by step and take alot of emphasis on detail of your prep work and actually do the full process the 50$ paint job will work for you
 
I was debating between a macco paintjob or a duplicolor spray can job cause I am cheap. I suppose a duplicolor can will work the same way.
 
I was debating between a macco paintjob or a duplicolor spray can job cause I am cheap. I suppose a duplicolor can will work the same way.

IT will cost a ton more to use rattle cans, and the paint won't hold up as well as the rustoleum. Normal duplicolor is not very good quality paint unless you get the acrylic enamel which is like 6 bucks a can. It will probably take 15 cans of paint to paint the car. I would just go the rustoleum route with a roller, or a cheap harbor freight spray gun.
 
it will cost a ton more to use rattle cans, and the paint won't hold up as well as the rustoleum. Normal duplicolor is not very good quality paint unless you get the acrylic enamel which is like 6 bucks a can. It will probably take 15 cans of paint to paint the car. I would just go the rustoleum route with a roller, or a cheap harbor freight spray gun.

yes.
 
the light yellow 1G Eclipse Base in my Avatar has been rolled with Rustoleum. original color was a dark green that has all gone to fade and clear coat peeling. Roof had chips were I had to bondo in along with a rust hole in the rear fender where I did a fibreglass patch.

I did a lot of prep work prior before painting. Used two coats of white rustoleum primer to cover up the green since yellow doesn't cover anything no matter how many coats you use.

Only thing I rattle-canned was the wheel covers.

Just get the paint water thin using mineral spirits. If rolling, use high density foam rollers and keep the roller loaded.

It's not the best paint job, but have got a lot of compliments on how I did the painting. I used bumper black spray from our local auto paint stores for the bumper and door panel trim, and window trim.

Big thing on using Rustoleum is that the thing will fade in two years if you keep it out in the sun.

You can do clear coat, but use oil based clear coats, not cyanoacrylic based clear coats.

I might repaint it this year unless it gets sold.

Interesting on the video: they just did a fender. Now what about the rest of the car to match?

DSM
 
Another DSM is going down the tube. Spraying a car other than factory (unless every bit I.E. engine bay/interior/underside) is stupid and looks ricey. practice on another POS before destroying the car. or save up the 1200 or so dollars and get it professionally resprayed and MAACO is not who you want to use.
 
Everyone will have opinions like all the members that have spoken, but truth be told unless the prep work is done to the letter. The outcome will not seem to have a full look as mentioned in all videos. I have painted a few of my older cars & trucks with rattle can, DIY spray gun, and have had a professional paint shop do one as well. They all came out in great condition and my rattle can job after two years of everything I have thrown at it, still looks good, not great, but good!

Good luck on the project! :thumb:
 
I've been repainting my car and doing a 2gb conversion to it, and i've been using the rustoleum sandable primer. IMO it's been going great. anytime you mess up jus sand it back down. And as far as durability my brother has his hood and 2 fenders on his jeep cherokee painted with the same thing for 2 years now and it still looks good. I'm almost done with my car jus doors and fenders left. But If you do this it wont cost as much when you go to have it professionally painted. Since you have already sanded it down and got your base coat. another upside to running primer is if you ever do get a scratch it's easy to fix. jus my 2 cents
 
If the body is properly prepped and painted, it will look good.

I know I don't do modding to any of my vehicles to satisfy everyone else, I do it to satisfy me.
My time and money for the ride I like.

The Satin part of the paint was done with a JD Blitz Black synthetic enamel ($33/gal), the bottom was done with gloss black paint. I did do all my jambs also and taped off the engine bay area (left it red, but only noticeable if you open the hood up).
I have about $200 in all materials and butt load of man hours since this is the first car I ever painted. The horizontal panels (roof since I hung the hood) was a pain to get right.

IMO, after doing a lot of research, a base clear paint is actually easier to paint then a 1 stage paint, its easier to fix mistakes.

The only thing I will say, is if you ever plan on repainting your car after using these cheap paints, plan on finding either a compatible sealer to paint the whole car or sanding it all off.

IMO it looks better then the factory red paint on the top and grey bottom that was original on the van. I even like the new paint scheme better then my avatar picture, the F5 tornado up here last year didn't like the red/blk paint scheme much.

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It's all about prep. If you do the proper prep the rest is cake.

My paint job cost me $16. That was for two cans of Valspar Satin Black water-based paint. I think it looks fantastic for the price. I'm curious to see how well it holds up to the elements once I get the car out of the garage.

I'm usually one that doesn't cheap out on things, especially paint, but as this car is a budget project vehcile I decided to go the most cost-efficient route. I'm a guy of high standards and even this cheap paint job exceeded my expected standards.
 
I had the typical black 2g sun spots and I touched them up with spray paint.. It was fine for my old car, being that it was N/A and auto, and worth $1500 but it clay barred right off. I wouldn't do it to anything too nice :(
 
Since I have nothing nice to say I'll say nothing at all... And we wonder why DSM's and Honda's get the ghetto rice name that we do.... <----crap, I tried not to say anything.

Race inspired car enhancements
 
It's all about prep. If you do the proper prep the rest is cake.

My paint job cost me $16. That was for two cans of Valspar Satin Black water-based paint. I think it looks fantastic for the price. I'm curious to see how well it holds up to the elements once I get the car out of the garage.

I'm usually one that doesn't cheap out on things, especially paint, but as this car is a budget project vehcile I decided to go the most cost-efficient route. I'm a guy of high standards and even this cheap paint job exceeded my expected standards.

You painted your car with latex paint?
 
That was for two cans of Valspar Satin Black water-based paint
Hope you used a sealer over that latex to make it waterproof.

Prob with lacquers is that the stuff dries hard and doesn't flex like acrylics.

Lacquers are good for climates that stay pretty constant, but do a job in Minnesota where it gets nasty cold and you'll have spider web cracks all over the paint since it can't flex.
 
Why are people calling me a ricer now? I am keeping the exact same color (Factory) just fixing the sun damage. I am NOT going all out and adding tribal and stripes or anything of that matter. Stock color, Just redoing it. Calm down Bro
 
Why are people calling me a ricer now? I am keeping the exact same color (Factory) just fixing the sun damage. I am NOT going all out and adding tribal and stripes or anything of that matter. Stock color, Just redoing it. Calm down Bro

Anything not in tune with normal dsmtuner behavior makes you apart of that group.

Race inspired car enhancements is better than confusing it with the racial category the acronym stands for.
 
If you do it correctly, it can come out pretty damned good. The main thing to be concerned with is prep work. If you don't prep it thoroughly enough and pay attention to detail, it could be a pretty piss poor paint job.
If you are committed to doing it though, I think it would be pretty cool to turn out a respectable paint job for cheap.
 
My buddy did it with velspar paint and a harbor freight gun. Spent $50 and it looks and feels lien plastidip. Even peels like it.
I'm using acrylic enamel with the same harbor freight hvlp gun and it's just under $250.

You could get urethane single stage for that price.
 
You need to get your head out of your ass. Not everyone cares about show cars or spending more on paint than the car is worth.



Another DSM is going down the tube. Spraying a car other than factory (unless every bit I.E. engine bay/interior/underside) is stupid and looks ricey. practice on another POS before destroying the car. or save up the 1200 or so dollars and get it professionally resprayed and MAACO is not who you want to use.
 
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