twicks69
Supporting Vendor
- 4,203
- 1,662
- Mar 12, 2004
-
Milwaukee,
Wisconsin
Thought I would share! This is the same setup since 2009.
Quick rundown of major parts:
*2.3L 7-bolt Groden aluminum rod 8:1 custom CP pistons with 2002 Kia Optima Crank.
*1G unported head w/ valvetrain mods, 1mm oversize valves and bowlwork only, custom cams, Supertech dual valve springs.
*Borg Warner S400SX3 74mm turbo with Bullseye race cover and 1.1 A/R divided T4 flange.
*2.5" IC piping on PTE large core.
*1G stock throttle body.
*1350cc primary injectors on twin pumps (in-line/in-tank Walbro 255's)
*1600cc secondary injectors on twin pumps (in-line/in-tank Walbro 255's) -- not used due to dead injector.
*Q16 race fuel
*AEM EMS
*Beyond Redline SMIM
*QM Gear-Drive twin-disk with race frictions
*Davies Craig EP115 electric water pump with pump controller.
*Saturn 200A alternator hard-wired.
The car put down 835AWHP/597TQ at 46psi on 8-degrees of timing with 11.7AFR's on a dying turbo. Spoolup was around 700-900 rpm slower than normal and there is around 1/8" of shaft play and some thrust play. The secondary rail/fuel system was not used because of a dead #4 injector, so we just ran the primary fuel system to its safe limits at 88% duty cycle on a 43psi base pressure. Full boost was really slow at 6700-6800 rpm starting at 4500rpm for the pull and letting off at 8600rpm on a 9000rpm redline. Power was flat and strong from 7000-8600rpm. Torque and power were both down overall though due to the dying turbo and was around 40AWHP/40-60TQ lower on the low boost tests we did prior to this pull due to the slower spoolup and missing the peak torque curve.
Water temperatures were fantastic with the Davies Craig EWP115 pump and pump controller on a 0.9 Bar radiator cap and no thermostat. I was running the system reverse-flow drawing the coolant through the head, then the radiator to the pump and back in to the motor. No problems, saw 170-180 degrees the whole time with the pump controller set either at 175 or 185 degrees. Super quiet and held up so far so good!
The STP numbers were 835AWHP/597TQ and the SAE numbers were 822AWHP/590TQ.
Here is the video:
youtube:
YouTube - ‪835AWHP/597TQ @ 46psi - twicks69 Tim Zimmer 7-bolt 4G63 1999 Eclipse TMZ Performance‬‏
photobucket:
Here are the pictures:
All in all, there were several hiccups during the day like any normal dyno time. The #4 secondary injector was not firing so the first 20 pulls of dialing in the secondary injectors was a waste. I had the secondary pumps originally running continuously because in the past I had all 4 pumps feeding one fuel rail, so I wired the secondary pump relay signal into the AEM to activate them based upon boost/duty cycle to ramp in. The alternator (brand new and tested) was not charging so I ended up hard-wiring the "F" field wire directly to the battery as a temporary solution to keep the alternator charging. The drawback to doing this without an ignition signal is that when the car is turned off, the alternator will drain your battery. The electric water pump was having a bit of leakage out of one of the fittings so I will need to pull it off again and chase the threads and make sure it was 1" NPT and not 1" BSP. I have -16AN to 1" NPT fittings on it currently, and ordered up some 1" BSP fittings but they are 1" JIC male-to-male adaptor fittings so I hope they fit (I couldn't remember if the nose taper is the same degree angle for the fitting to seal properly). The brand new Stant Racing radiator cap I picked up was designed to not have an o-ring seal, little did I know this until I hit any sort of boost.... First real pull, tons of coolant (water wetter and water) everywhere as it just gushed out of the radiator cap. I pulled a radiator cap off a 1932 cadillac that they had at the shop and tossed it on. Fit perfect, fixed the problem. The turbo had ALOT of shaft play resulting in substantially slower spoolup and lower numbers. It maybe has less than 1000-2000 miles on it, maybe 50 dyno pulls and 25 or so track passes. It had noticable shaft play since new; I know it is a loose turbo when compared to a ball bearing GT CHRA on a Garrett, but damn, it is loose! Also, on the last two pulls we did, I had some noticable harmonics going on after each pull. I think I either stretched flywheel bolts or hurt the transmission, so I will have to do a teardown and check. The motor held up no problems.
All in all, like every dyno visit, it was a long stressful day and a learning experience.
Hope you guys enjoy the vids and the numbers!
Quick rundown of major parts:
*2.3L 7-bolt Groden aluminum rod 8:1 custom CP pistons with 2002 Kia Optima Crank.
*1G unported head w/ valvetrain mods, 1mm oversize valves and bowlwork only, custom cams, Supertech dual valve springs.
*Borg Warner S400SX3 74mm turbo with Bullseye race cover and 1.1 A/R divided T4 flange.
*2.5" IC piping on PTE large core.
*1G stock throttle body.
*1350cc primary injectors on twin pumps (in-line/in-tank Walbro 255's)
*1600cc secondary injectors on twin pumps (in-line/in-tank Walbro 255's) -- not used due to dead injector.
*Q16 race fuel
*AEM EMS
*Beyond Redline SMIM
*QM Gear-Drive twin-disk with race frictions
*Davies Craig EP115 electric water pump with pump controller.
*Saturn 200A alternator hard-wired.
The car put down 835AWHP/597TQ at 46psi on 8-degrees of timing with 11.7AFR's on a dying turbo. Spoolup was around 700-900 rpm slower than normal and there is around 1/8" of shaft play and some thrust play. The secondary rail/fuel system was not used because of a dead #4 injector, so we just ran the primary fuel system to its safe limits at 88% duty cycle on a 43psi base pressure. Full boost was really slow at 6700-6800 rpm starting at 4500rpm for the pull and letting off at 8600rpm on a 9000rpm redline. Power was flat and strong from 7000-8600rpm. Torque and power were both down overall though due to the dying turbo and was around 40AWHP/40-60TQ lower on the low boost tests we did prior to this pull due to the slower spoolup and missing the peak torque curve.
Water temperatures were fantastic with the Davies Craig EWP115 pump and pump controller on a 0.9 Bar radiator cap and no thermostat. I was running the system reverse-flow drawing the coolant through the head, then the radiator to the pump and back in to the motor. No problems, saw 170-180 degrees the whole time with the pump controller set either at 175 or 185 degrees. Super quiet and held up so far so good!
The STP numbers were 835AWHP/597TQ and the SAE numbers were 822AWHP/590TQ.
Here is the video:
youtube:
YouTube - ‪835AWHP/597TQ @ 46psi - twicks69 Tim Zimmer 7-bolt 4G63 1999 Eclipse TMZ Performance‬‏
photobucket:
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Here are the pictures:
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All in all, there were several hiccups during the day like any normal dyno time. The #4 secondary injector was not firing so the first 20 pulls of dialing in the secondary injectors was a waste. I had the secondary pumps originally running continuously because in the past I had all 4 pumps feeding one fuel rail, so I wired the secondary pump relay signal into the AEM to activate them based upon boost/duty cycle to ramp in. The alternator (brand new and tested) was not charging so I ended up hard-wiring the "F" field wire directly to the battery as a temporary solution to keep the alternator charging. The drawback to doing this without an ignition signal is that when the car is turned off, the alternator will drain your battery. The electric water pump was having a bit of leakage out of one of the fittings so I will need to pull it off again and chase the threads and make sure it was 1" NPT and not 1" BSP. I have -16AN to 1" NPT fittings on it currently, and ordered up some 1" BSP fittings but they are 1" JIC male-to-male adaptor fittings so I hope they fit (I couldn't remember if the nose taper is the same degree angle for the fitting to seal properly). The brand new Stant Racing radiator cap I picked up was designed to not have an o-ring seal, little did I know this until I hit any sort of boost.... First real pull, tons of coolant (water wetter and water) everywhere as it just gushed out of the radiator cap. I pulled a radiator cap off a 1932 cadillac that they had at the shop and tossed it on. Fit perfect, fixed the problem. The turbo had ALOT of shaft play resulting in substantially slower spoolup and lower numbers. It maybe has less than 1000-2000 miles on it, maybe 50 dyno pulls and 25 or so track passes. It had noticable shaft play since new; I know it is a loose turbo when compared to a ball bearing GT CHRA on a Garrett, but damn, it is loose! Also, on the last two pulls we did, I had some noticable harmonics going on after each pull. I think I either stretched flywheel bolts or hurt the transmission, so I will have to do a teardown and check. The motor held up no problems.
All in all, like every dyno visit, it was a long stressful day and a learning experience.
Hope you guys enjoy the vids and the numbers!