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Bad wheel Vibration at 40-55 MPH Inner tie rod? or Wheel bearing?

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BJ350hp

Probationary Member
22
0
Apr 27, 2008
Gainesville, Florida
So I searched and have read about the many things that could be causing my bad wheel vibration. I think iv got it nailed down to inner tie rod or wheel bearing.

My car is a 97 GST Spyder.

So far I have replaced: Tie rod ends, New CV axles, Upper Ball joints, and had my alignment done with new tires mounted and balanced.

Today I did like most post say and checked the front wheels for play. I got no play up/down and left/right from the front passenger wheel. But on the drive side I get play left and right but not up/down. So I think it's got to be my inner tie rod or the wheel bearing.

Any ideas would really help me out.

Also made a video to help.



YouTube - Vibration

(Edit: when I first tested the wheels it was with all 5 lugs bolted down!. I bolted the wheel back on with two just to make the quick video)




UPDATE: Post # 12
:hmm:
 
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I think that sounds like a wheel bearing my wife's mazda had the same problem but it got so bad that you could hear the grinding all the time. You might be able to look behind the wheel where the axle/spindle enters the hub to see if there is any play in there. Or you can take off the wheel and grab the rotor the way you did the tire to get a better visual of where the play is coming from.
 
while your shaking the wheel left to right put your hand on the tie rod and hold it firmly. you should be able to feel the play in a more thumping manner.

also try shaking the wheel slowly also, not just fast.

im going on the assumption that you don't run 2 lug nuts per wheel.
 
Maybe an over sight on your part or maybe you just removed the lugs for some other reason but are you only using 2 lug nuts on that side?? that would cause movement in the wheel for sure!
 
You can't test for movement in the suspension without ALL the lug nuts tight. :banghead:

hahaha I had the wheel on and off. But when I first checked the wheel it was with all the lugs on LOL (and bolted down!)

I just put the two on to hold the wheel when I made the Video.

while your shaking the wheel left to right put your hand on the tie rod and hold it firmly. you should be able to feel the play in a more thumping manner.

also try shaking the wheel slowly also, not just fast.

im going on the assumption that you don't run 2 lug nuts per wheel.

I feel movement but not anything other then slight movement. More like I feel feed back from me pushing the wheel left and right.

Edit: comparing it to the other side holding the tie-rod and moving the wheel I think It might be the inner-tie rod. With it being compared to the passage side I don't feel any movement at all.
 
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Every bad wheel bearing I've seen has had play in all directions. Sounds like the inner tie rod. Let us know if you get it fixed, I have a vibration in the steering wheel as well and have always suspected inner tie rods. I've got no play at all though.

Edit:
So I decided to go jack up my car and see if I could locate the cause of my vibration. Well I guess the problem had gotten worse because there was some definite side to side play in the passenger wheel now. Thinking it was the inner tie rod I had an assistant wiggle the tire while I went underneath for a better look. Well low an behold the whole lower control arm was moving back and forth. The front bushing must be worn out because the arm is able to move a pretty good bit inside it's mount. Anyways, I can't wait to fix this thing and not have the steering wheel shaking back and forth in my hand. Mine had about the same amount of play as yours seemed to have in the video, so def. get underneath and check out the control arm bushings.
 
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Thanks, hopefully the OP can find his as well. And sorry for hijacking your thread BJ350hp. ...Now should I go with stock or urethane bushings?

i was talking to the OP about finding his problem LOL.

well urethane bushings are gonna give you better feel and control in most situations so if its broken then its a perfect time to upgrade..
 
Update:

Well I replaced the inner tie rod. Now the wheel has no movement from left/right or up/down.

But I still have the vibration.:cry:

The only other thing I can think of is that it's my polyurethane motor mounts.:aha::aha:
 
Check your brake calipers. I had one with a locked up piston that was grabbing the rotor and shaking in the bracket causing knocking and vibration.
 
Check your brake calipers. I had one with a locked up piston that was grabbing the rotor and shaking in the bracket causeing knocking and vibration.

It's funny you say that I had a dragging caliper on the passenger side but I fixed that recently and checked to see if the wheels spin with little resistant. And there fine....
 
Okay, just to clarify, where are you feeling the vibration? Through seats, feet, or steering wheel? I know this sounds silly but have you considered it to be the tires themselves? Some tires have more road noise and vibration than others, do a search on your specific tires and see if anyone else is complaining of excessive tire noise/vibration. It may not be the case but it's something to consider.
 
Okay, just to clarify, where are you feeling the vibration? Through seats, feet, or steering wheel? I know this sounds silly but have you considered it to be the tires themselves? Some tires have more road noise and vibration than others, do a search on your specific tires and see if anyone else is complaining of excessive tire noise/vibration. It may not be the case but it's something to consider.

I feel the vibration thought the seats and feet the whole car has the vibration.
And its almost always right at 45-50 mph.

The tires are a decent tire (continental extreme contact tires) very soft tread compound. It also had the same vibration with the old set of tires.

I'm really starting to think its my motor mounts. All this started right around the time I did my five speed swap and put in polyurethane mounts.

Out of balance wheel.... :hmm:

the tires are brand new with like 100 miles on them.
 
Have you tried coasting in neutral, engine off, etc?

BTW - You need to fill out your vehicle profile.

I second that. Drop it in neutral and see if the vibration goes away. That would point you in a totally different direction.
 
Have you tried coasting in neutral, engine off, etc?

BTW - You need to fill out your vehicle profile.

Yes +1, you haven't per chance eliminated the balance shafts have you?:ohdamn:
I completely fogged out on that even after you repeated thinking it may be your engine mounts. Mounts and BSE would cause a felt vibration inside the car. I mean, that IS what the balance shafts are supposed to cancel out after all! Hope this solved the mystery but let us all know.


edit: BTW, that's the only downside to removing the balance shafts (vibration), it's not hurting your engine to have them out or anything. It's just something you'll have to live with. You could lower the tire pressure (but not under 25psi or anything for street driving) or buy softer suspension if it really bothers you...
 
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Update: Well I have not had much time to work on the car. But today I did pull the front and rear motor mounts. And well there both done:notgood:........ So I got new mounts now I'm waiting on some new Inserts for them.

Will post back when they are installed on the car.:hmm:
 
pretty sure its not your motor mounts. Anyways, a good way to tell if the calipers is slightly sticking is to drive down the highway then when you stop SPIT on your rotor. Usually if bad one side will be smoking hott while the other is not. Don't touch it cause you could burn the hell outta your finger.

Also have you done the lower balljoints? Mine had a similiar problem as it would only do it at a certain speed, and it was the lower balljoints.
 
Update: Well I have not had much time to work on the car. But today I did pull the front and rear motor mounts. And well there both done:notgood:........ So I got new mounts now I'm waiting on some new Inserts for them.

Will post back when they are installed on the car.:hmm:

Any updates?
 
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