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Old 05-16-2008, 11:50 PM   #61 (permalink)
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i had the other stand on. i always work with both stands on the car

i lowerd the one side and was like F*&% i didn't take a pic. so i just jacked it back up real quick to snap one
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:15 AM   #62 (permalink)
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lol nice! how long did it take you to install? just got mine in and will be installing it tomorrow if it's not raining!
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:25 AM   #63 (permalink)
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took literally about 20 min.

took the longest time to jack it up. my car has very little rust on it for an 11 year old car
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Old 05-17-2008, 12:56 AM   #64 (permalink)
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BTW, the rear bar fit my Spyder very well. I didn't have any kind of rear bar before. The car doesn't waddle like a fat toad now.
Thanks MachV
That's it, I'm sold. This will be a nice addition to the the Tokico Illumias and Eibach Pro-Kit springs I have coming.


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Old 05-17-2008, 02:15 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Well I must be retarded or something cause I can't get the stock bar off. The bolts to the links won't come off no matter how many times I turned it. I destroyed two of the four bushing clamp bolts. One of the others is the same situation as the other link bolts. It turns and turns but won't come out. I haven't tried the fourth yet. I just can't wait to see what it'll do. This is ####ing ridiculous.


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Old 05-17-2008, 02:37 PM   #66 (permalink)
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um....ya just tried mine and definately stripped the back of the end link nut....ya you've got to put a 14mm open end on the back of it to hold it and then try and turn the nut....unfortunately i failed and stripped the back of that so now i think I have to order new sway bar end links...

can someone confirm that part if that's the correct name for it?????

i'm sooooo pissed because I got the bolt like half off and now it's stuck and I can't even tighten it back up......will this hurt the driveability of my car? meaning can i drive it without anything else breaking!?
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Old 05-17-2008, 10:40 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Use PB Blast and soak those bolts before working on it. I also suggest removing both rear wheels, it will be much easier removing the endlink bolts instead of laying on your back.

BTW the bar does wonders on a stock suspension.

Last edited by EnticivEclipse : 05-17-2008 at 10:41 PM. Reason: details
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Old 05-17-2008, 10:43 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I stripped one of the endlinks already so I'm going to torch them off next week at my friend's house. I already ordered a set of new endlinks. Any idea where I can get the bracket bolts? JNZTuning has the brackets but Idk if the bolts come with it so I asked.


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Old 05-17-2008, 11:15 PM   #69 (permalink)
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the bushings are designed for the stock bracket. so you still use the stock bolts and bracket. i'm using mine with no problem


and yeah soak the bolts in pb blaster and then heat them a little. having a friend help is a bonus. i had a friend help by holding the 14mm wrench on the inner part of the endlink while i delt with the nut.
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:05 AM   #70 (permalink)
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I broke two of my bolts, and a third has stripped threads so it's turning in place.


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Old 05-19-2008, 10:47 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Yeah, I'm having fun with this little project too. I rounded the nut on the back of one of the sway bar end links. I noticed some of you guys who had the same problem already ordered a replacement. Do you remember what the part number was (for a new sway bar end link)?


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Old 05-19-2008, 11:16 AM   #72 (permalink)
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is it just me or it squeeks.. ive had it on for a week and squeeks or its because of the bushings?
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Old 05-19-2008, 11:22 AM   #73 (permalink)
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is it just me or it squeeks.. ive had it on for a week and squeeks or its because of the bushings?
Did you use the lube it came with? You're supposed to put it inside the new polyurethane bushing to reduce noise.

Again, if anybody has that part number I'd greatly appreciate it.


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Old 05-19-2008, 12:30 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Did you use the lube it came with? You're supposed to put it inside the new polyurethane bushing to reduce noise.

Again, if anybody has that part number I'd greatly appreciate it.
Yea, i used the lube.

MB584467, double check it tho
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Old 05-19-2008, 12:55 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Ah, you were close.. MB584467 is for the 1g. That part number helped me get on the right track though so thanks. I found out that MB892982 is the part number for the rear links for the 2g AWD but I'm not sure about FWD. Does anybody know if the rear sway bar end links on the 2g FWD and the 2g AWD are the same?


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Old 05-19-2008, 01:04 PM   #76 (permalink)
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They're different I believe. FWD has both studs facing the same way and AWD faces opposite directions. I THINK. Don't quote me on it. I ordered both of mine for $30 shipped and I made sure the picture look like the ones on the DSM.


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Old 05-19-2008, 01:08 PM   #77 (permalink)
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^^^ Wow, that actually seems fairly cheap. Who did you order from? local dealership?


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Old 05-19-2008, 01:11 PM   #78 (permalink)
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I found out that MB892982 is the part number for the rear links for the 2g AWD but I'm not sure about FWD. Does anybody know if the rear sway bar end links on the 2g FWD and the 2g AWD are the same?
I checked CAPS and it shows MB892982 is the part number for a 2G GST Spyder rear stabilizer bar link assembly. Same part number.


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Old 05-19-2008, 01:21 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I checked CAPS and it shows MB892982 is the part number for a 2G GST Spyder rear stabilizer bar link assembly. Same part number.
Thank you, sir.


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Old 05-19-2008, 01:43 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Be sure to do several cycles of soaking the nuts in PB blaster before attempting to remove the nuts off the endlinks. My first attempt at taking the bar off resulted in several bent allen wrenches, but after more research I found that you need to put a open ended wrench on the back to keep the whole bolt from spinning.

This is where you want to use the open ended wrench and this picture helped me visualize what needed to be done.


Seeing as I did this by myself, I figured I could get a mechanical advantage by using a jack to push up (counterclockwise) on a box end wrench on the nut. At the same time I positioned the open ended wrench on the bolt such that it ran into the rear cross member. Next I repositioned the box end wrench and jacked up on it slowly breaking the nut free all while the open ended wrench kept the bolt from spinning.

After figuring this out, the install was pretty straightforward (minus me putting it in backwards at first )

Hope this helps someone.


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Old 05-19-2008, 02:39 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Quote: