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Old 09-24-2008, 06:14 PM   #91 (permalink)
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If you don't yet have the answers to this....I'll try now.

Wheels will need to be 17s or larger.

Wheel fit is based on both the caliper of choice and the rotor width. Wider rotors move the caliper closer to the wheel.

The more common FSL or BSL6 on the 1.10 rotor read like this:

Road Race FSL 0.65" 16.51mm
BSL6 0.85 21.59

Doing a 1.25 rotor I can customize this spec so that we use the same hats and add some width to the back as well as the front. By counter sinking the hat into the rotor face. This keeps the centerline the same as the 1.10" the added space needed is minimal- the step depth of .065". Kinda cool way to do that. Or I can do it all on another low depth hat and move it far outward if you have tons of room....

Pads for the street are BP10 or 20. Good starting track pads are Poly B.


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Old 09-24-2008, 09:42 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Please PM me price shipped to 20814. Thank you.


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Old 09-24-2008, 09:51 PM   #93 (permalink)
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dust

Last and final question. Does the fsl kit have dust boots? Only one of the kits says it contains dust boots. If not what is the reason for them not having any and would it be an issue if this kit is being used daily...... if it does not have any dust boots?
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:24 PM   #94 (permalink)
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There are no secrets here my friend. The base price of the FSL 1.25 kit is $1450 plus any options. Other than red calipers I'd avoid the drilled rotors however. UPS to your neck of the woods will run about $50 in today's brown costs. And I'd take 10% off any other pads ordered with it.

As for boots; no the FSL as race caliper does not come booted. Nor do many of the Wilwood line. However short of 'no care' year round abuse few customers over 15yrs have seen any real problem with this design. Add boots via other calipers and you simply vaporize them on the track anyhow.

This kit would be a couple weeks out pending the order as I don't stock the rotors for it.


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Old 09-25-2008, 12:13 AM   #95 (permalink)
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When I had my brembos that came with boots rebuilt I removed the boots. For a race car its just a part to catch fire.


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Old 09-25-2008, 09:21 PM   #96 (permalink)
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street

Do you drive this car as a daily driver? how does it act with out the boots. I drive everyday more then I drive on the track.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:36 PM   #97 (permalink)
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My car was my daily D its not now but it was for some years with the TCE kit. I still street drive it frequently.

Let me put it like this though, I race in the most dusty environment you can imagine. Everything is covered in dust/silt. Every little nook and cranny. I went through I think 4 sets of pads on my TCE kit racing in the most harsh environments on planet earth 120 degree ambient 180mph braking on a reduced traction surface (can you say over 1/2 mile on the brakes?) and then stopping from 180-200mph on the street driving 400 miles in the desert to and from the races, with axles exploding grease all over the calipers once a race. I had zero problems in that span and sold the brakes still in awesome condition zero need for a rebuild. I never had to rebuild the calipers and even if you do the rebuild kits for those calipers are readily available and priced well, more than I can say for my brembos. I'd kill rotors on the regular but the calipers were still rocking.

There isnt any effect on the feel of the car, some say the detriment is in the long term, OEM's design calipers to last forever, like 200k miles. I'm sure theres an advantage and thats why they come with them, but you have to consider if that advantage applies to your goals. Like I said though if you really go racing your going to burn/melt/crack/vaporize dust boots so whats the point?

This is how they looked at the end of all that when the guy picked them up



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Old 09-26-2008, 12:36 AM   #98 (permalink)
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After reading all 4 pages I'm a little confused about the 1g setup here, laymen's terms please...

(looking for slotted rotors and black booted calipers as far as options, I have the factory dual piston setup now and experience some brake fad on "longer" street driving situations).


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Old 09-26-2008, 08:15 AM   #99 (permalink)
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I daily drive my car and I use Todd's TCE 13x1.1 kit with NON-botted calipers. Have not had a problem. They work great. Use bp10s for daily and then I had E compound races when I went out, but holy crap do they go through rotors so I may be going to the B compound. Todd is great to work with on the phone and I get my crap quick which is good when your like oh shit the weekend before a track weekend. The only thing im thinking is maybe upgrading to a 1.25 kit, Todd would I have to get new calipers (running the FSL caliper and a 1.1 rotor). What do I need to do? Could you pm me the price difference between the 1.1 and 1.25 rotor?

For those that are considering this kit, GET IT! They are gorgeous and really expand the capabilities of your setup! Also if you go through pads quick youll be happy at pad prices through Todd. A lot cheaper than equivalent pads made for stock calipers! So over the long run you might save a few dollars!
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Old 09-26-2008, 08:56 AM   #100 (permalink)
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cool

Cool, sounds like these brakes can go threw hell and back with out a crack . Thanks thats all the info I needed just wanted to make sure the dust boots were not going to make me suffer on the streets. Other then that wilwood has everything I need for my set up. Now for a nice pair of gold or bronze rims.
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:54 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90laserRSfwd View Post
After reading all 4 pages I'm a little confused about the 1g setup here, laymen's terms please...

(looking for slotted rotors and black booted calipers as far as options, I have the factory dual piston setup now and experience some brake fad on "longer" street driving situations).
The only real choice you have for such a kit is my (now modified) version of the Wilwood factory kit. That's the booted DynaPro caliper on 12.2 x .810 rotors and make the upgrade to the GT rotor from the conventional non-slotted, non directional part. Talked about way back when. The mods now shown to be required are to change the hat offset for proper rotor to LCA clearance. The cost change is to reflect both the labor for this as well as the inbound shipping for this work. Like you I'd have to go scrolling back some pages to get to the final numbers.


And I'd have to agree with the comments on the booted vs non. Not because it's my main line but rather because most folks have never found it to be an issue.


PRICING: in the above configuration you are looking right about $1000 to your door for this.


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Last edited by Todd TCE : 09-26-2008 at 03:01 PM. Reason: added price
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