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Old 03-09-2009, 08:13 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talonDSMerr View Post
I believe most people just slap the BEP housing on without porting, as I'd imagine porting a stainless steel housing to be a huge pain.
Porting SS is a HUGE PITA. It's a lot of work and time. I must have spent about 3-4 hours working on my 3" O2 housing to match the outlet of the BEP to the O2 housing. It still wasn't perfect but I was so exhausted and I already was seeing the actually 3" pipe through the work done on the flange. I have no clue why BEP make their outlet so large on the mitsu housings. Come to think about it I still have my O2 housing laying around somewhere in the garage. I think I might decide to play with it some more and snap some pics just to show how much material I had to remove. I'm just getting ready to do some head work tomorrow on the talon so I would already have my stuff handy.


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Old 03-09-2009, 08:31 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Black_Bullet View Post
Also are any of you porting your BEP tubine housings for more flow, or just slapping them on with your hx35s and 40s?
As others have alluded, there's no where to port it for more flow. The housing inlet is already matched to the 7cm^2 manifold outlet and the housing outlet is already larger than the evo3 o2 housing inlet. Porting at the turbine inlet only helps flow if you don't have the seal ring. The bep housing comes with no step for the seal ring in the first place. So there would be no gain in opening it up there and then just having it neck down where airflow gets to the actual volute.


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:19 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #63 (permalink)
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Hey guys im in the process of trying to install my H1C it came with the 21cm housing so i new that was gonna be way to laggy for my setup so i decided to go with a 12cm housing. I was thinking the 12cm housing would be fine and bolt up to my manny but i was WRONG im haveing some major fitment issue's!!! Heres some pics of what im talking about.

WHAT WOULD BE MY EASIEST AND CHEAPEST SOLUTION TO THIS.




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Old 03-09-2009, 09:26 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #64 (permalink)
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Get a manifold that's made to handle 42r's.


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #65 (permalink)
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Damn hopefully my hx35 fits better than that..


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
Hey guys im in the process of trying to install my H1C it came with the 21cm housing so i new that was gonna be way to laggy for my setup so i decided to go with a 12cm housing. I was thinking the 12cm housing would be fine and bolt up to my manny but i was WRONG im haveing some major fitment issue's!!! Heres some pics of what im talking about.

WHAT WOULD BE MY EASIEST AND CHEAPEST SOLUTION TO THIS.


looks like youre gonna need a spacer.


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #67 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm-onster View Post
As others have alluded, there's no where to port it for more flow. The housing inlet is already matched to the 7cm^2 manifold outlet and the housing outlet is already larger than the evo3 o2 housing inlet. Porting at the turbine inlet only helps flow if you don't have the seal ring. The bep housing comes with no step for the seal ring in the first place. So there would be no gain in opening it up there and then just having it neck down where airflow gets to the actual volute.
Is the oem evo3 o2 housing gasket too small for the BEP housing?


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #68 (permalink)
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I have a 1/2 spacer already from the manifold to turbo and made no difference at all...


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Old 03-09-2009, 09:48 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #69 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
I have a 1/2 spacer already from the manifold to turbo and made no difference at all...
Spacer from head to manifold.


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Old 03-10-2009, 06:36 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #70 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nfernotalon View Post
Damn hopefully my hx35 fits better than that..
If you notice, that manifold outlet is much more perpendicular to the head flange. An fp, stock, or evo3 manifold angles the turbine housing away from the block more. I've worked with the DNP-style manifolds and they have alot more angle at the outlet.


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Old 03-10-2009, 06:48 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
Hey guys im in the process of trying to install my H1C it came with the 21cm housing so i new that was gonna be way to laggy for my setup so i decided to go with a 12cm housing. I was thinking the 12cm housing would be fine and bolt up to my manny but i was WRONG im haveing some major fitment issue's!!! Heres some pics of what im talking about.

WHAT WOULD BE MY EASIEST AND CHEAPEST SOLUTION TO THIS.
Hey whats up Matt. I would get this Flange, some longer bolts/studs and 2 Gaskets.
eBay Motors: Exhaust Manifold Flange 4G63 1G, 2G, EVO, Galant Vr4 (item 120359579534 end time Apr-05-09 18:22:33 PDT)


You will need 1 gasket to go between the engine and the flange. And another gasket to go between the Flange and the Exhaust Manifold.
That will hopefully be enough to get you lined up. If NOT then you can sell me your manifold and buy a different one that fits better.
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Old 03-10-2009, 09:43 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #72 (permalink)
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Just bought an hx35. Going to give it a try. if anyone has the bep bolt on mitsu housing for sale lmk.


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Old 03-10-2009, 10:28 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #73 (permalink)
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Ok this is really bothering me. I have a spare hx35 laying around from my uncles 96 Ram. But there doesn't appear to be any "inlet" opening in the larger part of the compressor housing (the webbed part where the stock silencer ring covers). Can someone snap a picture showing me those "inlets"? I'm thinking this isn't an hx35.
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Old 03-10-2009, 12:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
I have a 1/2 spacer already from the manifold to turbo and made no difference at all...
Did you shave the spacer to make it a wedge? Here we go found the pichttp://http://www.dsmtuners.com/foru...mannifold.html


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Old 03-10-2009, 01:11 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
I was thinking the 12cm housing would be fine and bolt up to my manny but i was WRONG im haveing some major fitment issue's!!! Heres some pics of what im talking about.

WHAT WOULD BE MY EASIEST AND CHEAPEST SOLUTION TO THIS.

If your manifold positions the turbine housing that close to the block, the giant compressor cover of the Holset will never fit.

We ran into a similar issue when installing a GT35R (.82 a/r T3 turbine housing) on a 1G using a Turbonetics cast manifold. The angle of the turbo mounting flange wasn't at a steep enough angle to prevent the turbine housing from hitting the block at the front balance shaft tube.

There were a couple possible solutions:

- Plug the threaded holes on the Turbonetics manifold, mill the flange at a steeper angle, then redrill and retap the holes to mount the turbo.

- Use a spacer at the head to set the manifold out slightly. This would require two exhaust manifold gaskets and longer studs.

- Find a manifold similar to yours, cut the turbo flange off and reweld it at a steeper angle.


We ended up finding a good deal on a used South Florida Performance manifold that already had the turbo flange welded at a steep enough angle for the .82 a/r turbine housing to clear the block.




The second photo illustrates how much steeper the angle of the turbo flange is on the SFP than your manifold.

The SFP manifold is no longer available, but it is nearly identical (visually) to the ERL Cast Stainless manifold....although I'm sure the ERL manifold is a better-built piece.


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Old 03-10-2009, 01:22 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #76 (permalink)
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IMO it would be better and cheaper to try and mill the flange a little bit, good luck-matt98

dsm-onster-- AH crap has anyone bolted one of these up to an ebay tubular mani? Im gonna have to take a look at mine i might have the same problem.


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Old 03-10-2009, 02:21 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #77 (permalink)
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I really think the best option is to chop off the flange on his manifold and reweld it at a better angle, as mentioned. Easiest and most reliable way to solve this problem.


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Old 03-10-2009, 07:56 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #78 (permalink)
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Hey guys thanks for all the help! Im really thinking im just gonna take my manifold and flanges down and try and get them both milled so the turbine housing will sit farther away from the block. Im really trying to avoid haveing to get a flange from the head to mainifold.


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Old 03-10-2009, 09:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #79 (permalink)
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Hey guys have a quick question. I have a borg warner s259.. I swaped turbine housings and sold my old .55ar bep dsm housing of my turbo to a guy that has a hx35.. Now this should be a direct bolt on and should work? He pmed me and said the turbine wheel fits its just to small for the housing. Does this sound correct? I havent really kept with the holset threads too much. From the information that I have gathered it should be a direct bolt and should work perfect with the hx35.. I gave him the number to bullseye and told him to speak with David. If Im wrong then I will send him the money back and he can send me the turbine housing back. DSM-ONSTER? You seem to have a lot of knoledge on the Holsets.
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:29 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #80 (permalink)
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Holset turbine wheels are not borg-warner turbine wheels. You gave him a bolton turbine housing from your BW turbo? The housing is cut for your s256 wheel. The smallest s256 turbine wheel (69.5mm, 61.5mm) has an inducer and exducer that are close in size to the hx35 (69.9mm, 60mm), but off enough for the exducer to lose efficiency (spaced too far from the housing wall) and a enough for the inducer (major diameter) to contact the housing. Also the blade contour-- the sweep from the major to the minor diameter-- could be drastically different in length and bend.

He cannot have the housing machined to fit the hx35 turbine wheel since one of the diameters of the smallest s2** series wheel is already larger than the corresponding diameter of the hx35 wheel.


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Old 03-11-2009, 06:40 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #81 (permalink)
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I see.. My turbo has the 74/64 turbine wheel though. All s259's come with the larger turbine wheel. Either what its not right. Thanks!!
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:36 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #82 (permalink)
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Hey Mike1992! I see you on this thread, while I'm building my auto to manual convrsion . Put your car into the 10s already so that we can put the hx40 saga to bed! 10s seam to be the F&F "go to" number for 4g63-powered cars to prove a turbo. 650whp on the dyno with a .55 a/r bep housing and then 580whp trapspeed with the smaller 8blade compressor w/ bolton seams not to be enough for some.


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Old 03-11-2009, 12:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #83 (permalink)
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Well guys....Friday morning at 8am the process of putting the beast back together begins. If there is enough interest, I'll start a blog.
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Old 03-11-2009, 01:30 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #84 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a picture of the webbed inlet part? (described in post #73, on page 3). Next question, I'm looking into picking up a holset as a temp. solution. I'm looking at the small h1c. Here's the thing. The guy is asking $140 shipped for it. None to minimal shaft play (no in and out, slight side to side, wheels don't touch housings). Now my question is does anyone know what kind of power can come from one of these. I saw the section about about the H1C that DSMonster was describing. Only problem is he states that the small H1C uses a 50mm compressor wheel (inducer) and the wheel itself is a 7 blade. Now, I'm in no way discrediting or disrespecting him here. The turbo I'm looking at is an H1C, says so on the tag at least, but it's an 8 blade compressor wheel. I'm still awaiting a measurement from the owner of the turbo. So to sum it up, am I looking at a small H1C like mentioned or something else? The turbo is from a 1990 Ram, non intercooled cummins. The tag say's Holset H1C, but the compressor doesn't have 7 blades like described in the beginning of this thread. Pic's:
Attached Images
    

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Old 03-11-2009, 02:31 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #85 (permalink)
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Yes. That part is wrong. The 7blade h1c has a 45mm inducer and a bolton compressor housing. I call this the "baby" h1c. What I now call small h1c has a 50 to 52 mm 8blade inducer with no webbing and a vband compressor housing. That one is the 50-52mm h1c. The big h1c (54mm inducer) is good for about 48lb/min to 60% efficiency. That 50-52mm compressor could be as good as the 18g or evo3 16g by the same 60% efficiency. Of course you would have the hx35 turbine wheel and a housing that both together would flow quite a bit more than the td05h hotside. So you would have more hp per psi than those MHI turbos.

The webbed inlet means that the compressor looks like it has surge porting in it. The big h1c has the webbing. But only does the wh1c and hx35 or bigger actually have porting all the way through the cover to the compressor blades. But I've never once had the slightest issue with surge even with the larger 54mm h1c wheel and the bolton housing with a 2.0L.


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Old 03-11-2009, 03:07 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #86 (permalink)
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Hey guys I'm one of the three cars dsm-onster was talking about from Mr. Peepers area. If all goes well the car should be running tonight otherwise it will be up and going tomorrow. Hope to have dyno and track numbers in early April.



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Old 03-11-2009, 03:13 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #87 (permalink)
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Very nice! More pics!


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Old 03-11-2009, 10:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #88 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm-onster View Post
Hey Mike1992! I see you on this thread, while I'm building my auto to manual convrsion . Put your car into the 10s already so that we can put the hx40 saga to bed! 10s seam to be the F&F "go to" number for 4g63-powered cars to prove a turbo. 650whp on the dyno with a .55 a/r bep housing and then 580whp trapspeed with the smaller 8blade compressor w/ bolton seams not to be enough for some.
My car is still in the garage with the head off. I haven't the funds to put it back togeather the way I want to yet I hope to get the block out and reworked sometime soon though. I'll have some track times out before summer rolls around
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:12 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #89 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by blacksheep86 View Post
Hey guys I'm one of the three cars dsm-onster was talking about from Mr. Peepers area. If all goes well the car should be running tonight otherwise it will be up and going tomorrow. Hope to have dyno and track numbers in early April.



Thanks
Erik
Your setup looks awesome man. Question: are you using the PR 02 Housing that is listed in your profile? In a couple of weeks I'm going to buy a HX40 with the bep housing and I can't decide if I want to stick with the ported sbr cast manifold that I have or if it would be beneficial to switch to a FP Race manifold... I have my manifold flanged for my 38mm external wg, and if I switch to the fp race mani, I would have to buy a new 02 housing. Eventually I'll probably switch housings and go to a tubular manifold someday, but for now, I don't want to spend the $800-$1000 on a good tubular manifold.


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Old 03-12-2009, 12:14 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #90 (permalink)
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Here is my HE351CW. Im going to do some test fitting today to see if im going to use a spacer to keep it from hitting the block or if im going to get the flange remilled.

Ill be running this turbo with 190 walbro, 750 siemens injectors, speed density, ported 2g manifold and tial 38mm.

Oh and I realize I should get a new compressor. Ill probably do that in a couple of months or so then ill just rebuild the entire thing








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