I think you might be able to. It looks like there is enough room for them. I don't have any 2ga fog lights laying around, so there is no way for me to know for sure.
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
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Man, I hope so.Because I just got some hids 1000k from Sharp and the stock fog look yellow and it looks so nice. I wanted to get a black intercooler, but not many people make them so i going wit PR. You have showed us that its the best bang for the buck. And if i can keep my fogs that would be a plus. Can you see how much space there is with a ruler?
I wanted to get a black intercooler, but not many people make them so i going wit PR.
You can get the core anodized black, just do not paint it.
I agree with you BoostJunki it looks like there should be enough space to mount the fogs. I should be picking up this kit when its back in stock so if I can get my hands on some fogs I'll test fit them.
Man, I hope so.Because I just got some hids 1000k from Sharp and the stock fog look yellow and it looks so nice. I wanted to get a black intercooler, but not many people make them so i going wit PR. You have showed us that its the best bang for the buck. And if i can keep my fogs that would be a plus. Can you see how much space there is with a ruler?
I am going to see if I can "borrow" a friends fog lights and see if they will fit. I'll let you know when I do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jm1080
So what happened with the hood not closing because of BOV?! I think that is more important than fogs.
Hopefully that is fixed because I dont want to run my car with the hood open
If you look in the pictures that 90cherrybomb posted, he mounted the IC backwards; those screw holes are supposed to face toward the engine. I also asked for him to post up some close-up pictures of the BOV so we could all make an assesment. He has not replied as of yet.
Just to see, I went out and set the adjustment screw all the way out to see if I could still close the hood or not. It still clears.
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
I am going to see if I can "borrow" a friends fog lights and see if they will fit. I'll let you know when I do.
If you look in the pictures that 90cherrybomb posted, he mounted the IC backwards; those screw holes are supposed to face toward the engine. I also asked for him to post up some close-up pictures of the BOV so we could all make an assesment. He has not replied as of yet.
Just to see, I went out and set the adjustment screw all the way out to see if I could still close the hood or not. It still clears.
I didn't see your post about mounting the i/c backwards, however, I did notice this myself yesterday when I was looking at the car...it made me laugh. Although, I don't see how that could affect BOV location?
I will try to get pictures, but its hard when the person who owns the car is on a different work/sleep schedule than I am. It honestly looks like the BOV "pipe" is just too tall, if it was cut shorter and rewelded, it wouldn't be an issue at all. Maybe this one is longer than others?
I didn't see your post about mounting the i/c backwards, however, I did notice this myself yesterday when I was looking at the car...it made me laugh. Although, I don't see how that could affect BOV location?
I will try to get pictures, but its hard when the person who owns the car is on a different work/sleep schedule than I am. It honestly looks like the BOV "pipe" is just too tall, if it was cut shorter and rewelded, it wouldn't be an issue at all. Maybe this one is longer than others?
It probably doesn't affect the location of the pipes; I was just wondering if it may have been something that was done or the way the pipe was mounted.
By BOV pipe do you mean the actual IC pipe or the pipe that the flange is welded to?
Also, when you take those pics go ahead and measure the pipe length so we can compare numbers. Thanks.
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
I got mine today. Needless to say I am very happy with it. I like the design better than my Greedy system (Yeah I know what I typed). It replaces the TB Elbow which is good and comes with an extra BOV which I sold already with my old system. I'm gonna keep my real Type-S BOV (I actually like that).
Hey boostjunk how is the bov holding up the one you got with the kit
Well, I have been having problems with mine. I can't seem to get it adjusted soft enough to keep it from fluttering. I adjusted it so far out that the adjustment screw came out; even with the screw completly out, it still fluttered.
No one else has reported any problems with thiers, so i'm chalking this up to a bad BOV. I have been in contact with Tim and am sending the BOV back to him so he can check it for himself and we'll go from there. No big deal for me really as I was planning on running my DG modded 1g BOV from my last setup after testing the one that comes with the kit.
I'll post up any updates about this as they come.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crimsondragon
Where's my damn refund?
I'm curious as to what your talking about here?
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
Well, I have been having problems with mine. I can't seem to get it adjusted soft enough to keep it from fluttering. I adjusted it so far out that the adjustment screw came out; even with the screw completly out, it still fluttered.
No one else has reported any problems with thiers, so i'm chalking this up to a bad BOV. I have been in contact with Tim and am sending the BOV back to him so he can check it for himself and we'll go from there. No big deal for me really as I was planning on running my DG modded 1g BOV from my last setup after testing the one that comes with the kit.
I'll post up any updates about this as they come.
I'm curious as to what your talking about here?
A common mod for the knock off type-s bov's was the single spring mod. Open the top and you remove one of the springs. I forgot which, you will have to search on that.
Well, I have been having problems with mine. I can't seem to get it adjusted soft enough to keep it from fluttering. I adjusted it so far out that the adjustment screw came out; even with the screw completly out, it still fluttered.
No one else has reported any problems with thiers, so i'm chalking this up to a bad BOV. I have been in contact with Tim and am sending the BOV back to him so he can check it for himself and we'll go from there. No big deal for me really as I was planning on running my DG modded 1g BOV from my last setup after testing the one that comes with the kit.
I'll post up any updates about this as they come.
I'm curious as to what your talking about here?
My tax refund. I need it now to buy me this kit.
____________________________
Tim
Grace: 1998 Eclipse GST
Daisy: 1990 Jeep XJ
A common mod for the knock off type-s bov's was the single spring mod. Open the top and you remove one of the springs. I forgot which, you will have to search on that.
Interesting. I may give this a try. I still think it's strange that i'm the only one having these problems. We'll see. I'll post up what happens. Thanks for the information.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crimsondragon
My tax refund. I need it now to buy me this kit.
Haha. I was thinking something else.
I hope you get your refund soon.
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
got mine the other day, haven't got to put it in yet (enigne first lol) but looks solid. The core i got last year (was going to get pipes but blah) is bigger then this core. Will take pic's once the weather gets up to temp.
____________________________
-Chuck
~2gb'ed Talon Tsi Awd A/T
Here's my kit installed finally! Sorry it took so long! This is for the 2gb guys, only thing I really had a problem with is obviously no instructions which I think would be nice for anyone new to installing FMIC's but it is pretty much fool proof.
Only things is I received an extra pipe and coupler, assuming it's for different types of turbos and 1 of my pipes had a whole in it for like another boost source. I just went to an auto store and found a plug for it, I believe it was a 1/4" maybe 1/8" plug. Just used some teflon tape and tighten her up. Here are some pics, I still have to "shim" the FMIC core a little as you can see it's off center a tiny bit. I'm anal so I have to have it perfect! lol only thing I wished is that the core was maybe a little wider so even if you don't shim it perfect, it would at least still look centered.
But other than that wasn't too bad, LOVED the price and so far has done me well! Once I finish getting a few more parts installed I plan on dyno'ing it and seeing how it goes. I haven't really logged much with dsmlink, just did some street tuning. I have noticed that my slimline fans (also from pr) do turn on and off more frequently now that I have the FMIC on. I am running the Radiator and slimline fan combo from Punishment Racing.
I will be doing more business with them in the near future as they are pretty much awesome! Thanks Tim for everything, again sorry it took awhile to get pics and what not.
with the black piece on and the bumper not fully trimmed!
with the black piece out and enjoying all the labor i did! it took forever to trim that bumper and it's still not perfect but it's good enough for now!
you will need to trim the fog light ducks or whatever you wanna call them. As you can see in my pictures where the piping touches, those need to be cut down.
I'm currently using the j-pipe but it will hopefully be coming off soon. It is a tight fit as you can see but it all does fit. I did all of this with just taking the intake off and the radiator is still in as you can see. It would have been a lot easier with the radiator out but I didn't feel like draining it and doing the extra work. I got it done though.
I have a ton of pictures so if anyone would like to see them let me know, you will need to either get a SS clutch line or bend the stock one and conect it and take out the "in-between piece" not sure what it's called but the upper IC won't fit with it in. It's gotta go!
The piece you are talking about is the accumulator. The one that mounts on the transmission? inbetween the line that connects to the slave?
Why are you going to remove the jpipe? What would you be using then? That one you have pictured is the one that came with the kit no? Clearance doesnt look bad at all.
When you say you blocked off the boost source, was it this one ImageShack - Image Hosting :: img3156.jpg pictured in the lower pipe? If so what are you using as a boost source for your MBC/EBC? Dont tell us the BOV
This is what I really attracted me to this kit, it came with 2 sets of lower piping for either turbo and already tapped and nippled for a boost source. Unfortunately for punishment, Mangina took me away to their side. sooooo close for me to getting this kit, I still like it, even more now with these pics. Thanks for sharing.
That extra pipe is for a downflow turbo setup. I didn't use the j-pipe. Glad to see you got it on there.
ic, ya i figured it was but it's so small that i won't be using it. and thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTurboEclipse
Finally some good install pics
It looks good.
The piece you are talking about is the accumulator. The one that mounts on the transmission? inbetween the line that connects to the slave?
Why are you going to remove the jpipe? What would you be using then? That one you have pictured is the one that came with the kit no? Clearance doesnt look bad at all.
When you say you blocked off the boost source, was it this one ImageShack - Image Hosting :: img3156.jpg pictured in the lower pipe? If so what are you using as a boost source for your MBC/EBC? Dont tell us the BOV
This is what I really attracted me to this kit, it came with 2 sets of lower piping for either turbo and already tapped and nippled for a boost source. Unfortunately for punishment, Mangina took me away to their side. sooooo close for me to getting this kit, I still like it, even more now with these pics. Thanks for sharing.
Hah, ya it's a tight fit but worked great so far! and no not using the bov as a source, lol actually that picture you see is where my mbc is connected. if you are looking at the front of the car the left side (passanger side) had a bung in it as well. right under the passanger side fog light. i had to plug that up, no big deal though as the plug cost like 2 bucks at an auto store.
Oh, i'll be removing the j-pipe when i go with a downward facing turbo . and yes the "accumulator" that is attached to the trans/side of the car is what needs to be removed. Mr. Peepers, just bent the line coming from that going to the slave and stretched it out to connect to the upper part of the line. which in theory is better than a SS because you are keeping the stock hard line. the SS clutch line is still bendable. I did notice since I've taken that off, the clutch is a little bit firmer but my leg has now adjusted to that. lol.
The upper ic pipe does get a little close to the transmission but there is still enough clearence there. you can also retain your fender guards or splash guards whatever you want to call them. YOU WILL need to trim the driver side a tiny bit. Not much though, you'll just have to notch out a U shap piece to fit the driverside pipe through.
I had a HUGE boost leak on the driverside but it's all fixed now. IMO the piping to coupler to the next piping is not 100% perfect fit, just in case anyone eles had a little trouble installing them....i would say it's like 95% perfect
All in all, if punishment racing has another sale on the 1g kit's and i still have my 1g by then i'll be purchasing the 1g IC kit. If I ever get another 2g I will probably be going with this kit again! Unless i get a 97-98 eagle talon front bumper then I might have to go with the vrs kit Just because it's much wider and fills that bumper better!
Once again, I've had great experience with Punishment Racing and will continue to do business with them! I'm in the market for an o2 housing next
also if anyone was wondering, i used a utility knife for MOST of the cutting. the hard to reach with the utility knife i used a dremel with a diamond wheel basically for striking the line then cut the rest with the knife. went through only 3 blades but i did buy a huge pack just in case! I have more pics if requested.
I also had the same BOV problem, fluttered like hell all the time. Did the same thing, went to the point where the adjustment screw was all the way out, to no avail. and a vacuum tee broke of when putting a little clamp on it. These things suck.
Also, as a 2gb, auto, spyder, the front of this kit didnt fit with all the bumped trimming a cutoff wheel and sawzall can buy, So, The U ben pipe, I cut 3 or 4 inches out of the center, Deleted the 90 degree pipe without the boost nipple on it. And then cut 2 inches off the boost nipple pipe. Super short route?> I think so. I would recomend doing this and have an exhaust shop weld some new beads on the pipes you cut, Before you start trimming the bumper. Mine is hacked up, badly, now because I thought the kit was designed for the pipes to actually fit.
But for 360 bucks? Looks great, dont have to cut the frame support, and is pretty darn nice.
I also had the same BOV problem, fluttered like hell all the time. Did the same thing, went to the point where the adjustment screw was all the way out, to no avail. and a vacuum tee broke of when putting a little clamp on it. These things suck.
Also, as a 2gb, auto, spyder, the front of this kit didnt fit with all the bumped trimming a cutoff wheel and sawzall can buy, So, The U ben pipe, I cut 3 or 4 inches out of the center, Deleted the 90 degree pipe without the boost nipple on it. And then cut 2 inches off the boost nipple pipe. Super short route?> I think so. I would recomend doing this and have an exhaust shop weld some new beads on the pipes you cut, Before you start trimming the bumper. Mine is hacked up, badly, now because I thought the kit was designed for the pipes to actually fit.
But for 360 bucks? Looks great, dont have to cut the frame support, and is pretty darn nice.
Do you have pictures of this? I didn't have to cut any pipes for this kit to fit and I haven't heard anything about anyone else having to do this. Quite a few people(just in this thread) have this kit installed and never mentioned having to cut up thier pipes.
____________________________
Adam
96 Eagle Talon TSi
90 Plymouth Laser RS
pictures would definately be nice to see. I didn't have to cut any of my pipes at all and I did have the same problem with the bov. The springs inside are too tight with 2 of them, I just took 1 out and it's so and so fine now. A lot better than both because the BOV wasn't even opening and the I was getting compresser surge like crazy.
So I would highly sugest you take one of the springs out of the BOV. Your fluttering noise is probably your turbo screaming at you! The springs are just too stiff.
I took out the small one, so I only have the big one in there right now. It still surges a little bit so I'm going to take that out and put the small one in there and see what happens but I'm pretty sure the small one is going to be tighter. Oh well it's easy to switch in and out so I don't mind.
FAIR WARNING: IF YOU'RE A/T, DON'T EXPECT THIS TO BE A BOLT-ON.
I'm currently struggling with my piping. First, the A/T is way too bulky, causing the BOV pipe to hit it. Second, if you have the A/T cooler in front of the rad, you will have to loosen it to get the FMIC on.
____________________________
Tim
Grace: 1998 Eclipse GST
Daisy: 1990 Jeep XJ
sorry I spose I could have posted the pictures for that. On the M/T cars, the upper IC pipe is close to the trans but there is still a small bit of clearence. I'll post a pic this weekend if I can get a better one.