| Turbo System Tech Turbos, Intercooling, Boost Control, Wastegates, etc.
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05-02-2008, 06:17 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Wallace, North Carolina
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,334
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Mounting a Buschur intercooler (old street version)
I already have the intercooler installed. I installed hood pins and want to remove the hood latch assembly to take some weight off the car. There is a piece on top of the intercooler that screws into the hood latch assembly, so I have to figure what to do with it. Has anybody just left this piece disconnected without any problems or do you think the intercooler might crack due to all the weight being held by the two pieces on the bottom of the intercooler? I will get a picture up in a bit of exactly what I am talking about.
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05-02-2008, 06:46 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,483
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Just fab up some new aluminum brackets and weld them to the top of the IC, then mount those where ever you want.
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Eric
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05-02-2008, 06:58 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Wallace, North Carolina
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,334
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I thought about doing that. The problem is everybody I know that knows how to weld says they can't weld aluminum. The only place I know of that is left around me to call is the community college. And if the teacher would do it I am sure he would want the intercooler off the car. That is a last resort for me because I would rather not take it off.
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05-02-2008, 07:32 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,483
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Lets see pics of how it mounts to the car.
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Eric
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05-02-2008, 07:58 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Wallace, North Carolina
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,334
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In this picture you can see where it goes to the hood latch.
And on the bottom there are two pieces that go towards the back of the car and mount on the crossmember I guess you would call it. It is the metal piece on the bottom in this picture.
If you need better pictures let me know and I will go try to take some. I say try since it is dark now.
Last edited by 1992awdlaser : 06-18-2008 at 04:14 PM.
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05-02-2008, 08:36 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Johnstown, Pennsylvania
Region: Tri State
Registered: Sep 2004
Posts: 177
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Leave the safty latch system in place for the hood. Truuuuuuust me, forget "one" time to put the safty pins in place, hit full boost and watch what happens. Ask, me how I know this. 
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2.3L G4CP
2.4L G64B
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05-02-2008, 08:43 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Boise, Idaho
Region: Rocky Mountain
Registered: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,483
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Close ups would help. It doesnt look like there is much there to work with.
I would try to fab something up that resembles the size and width of the hood latch and bolt that in its place. That way you wont have to worry about welding, just some metal work.
____________________________
Eric
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05-02-2008, 08:45 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Wallace, North Carolina
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,334
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I am going to be putting a fiberglass pin-on hood on it that won't except any of the factory stuff. So, I figured might as well get rid of it now since it will be coming off anyway.
I took some pictures of where it actually mounts. I am just waiting on them to upload onto photobucket now.
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05-02-2008, 09:41 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Wallace, North Carolina
Region: Tri State
Registered: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,334
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These should work.
There is two of these on the bottom.
Edit: Does anybody know what the electrical box on the driver side behind the auto seatbelts is for? And also the one in front of the ecu? I am trying to get the car down to 25xx pounds without me in it. That is with a fiberglass hatch, fiberglass hood, and lexan rear windows being the only things I will spend money on.
Last edited by 1992awdlaser : 05-03-2008 at 07:41 AM.
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