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Old 06-07-2008, 01:37 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Ok. Im going to go GM Maf. I got an aeromotive regulator that my friend is going to let me use. I think with meth the 6152 would put down 480ish but pump gas is just a killer. I got 430 out of it but it wasnt working out for me on the street. The dyno pulls were clean with very little knock but as boost came on in 4th gear on the street it just didnt like it. So now im at 25 psi and going to tune again. Im going to get the afpr on and lean it out a little on the dyno and call it good till I get the gm maf. NewTurboTuner and I did a couple runs on friday. They were good races when he gave me the hit, but even then he would pass me at about 90-100ish. His car is definetly faster though. It was good shit. He was at 23 psi on 94 octane and I was at 25 on 92 running a little rich. I thought my car did good for full weight 2nd gen aganist a fast gutted 1st gen. There wll be more races to come.
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:51 PM   #122 (permalink)
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the 3.5 GM MAF will be alot less restrictive in the intake too. That'll help with the 450goal for sure



2 years ago when I bought my car I've been trying to hit 500awhp on pump gas. The FP3065 gets me close, but not quite there on pump 92. I've got choices to make, since its about to crap out on me.

I didnt get the winning bid on that GT4088R we were talking about.
I did score this T4 HKS mani though...
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Old 06-07-2008, 03:05 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Layzie you see any problems with that 2gmaf and the 4" intake?
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Old 06-07-2008, 03:55 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Yes i have problems with the 2g maf and 4 inch intake. I think Andre has that same HKS manifold at the shop right now. When are you going to buy that turbo? Its bout to be a beast from hell.
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Old 06-07-2008, 04:15 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I've got the funds to order it, I just have to choose which one
08 to do list


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Old 06-07-2008, 09:26 PM   #126 (permalink)
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The FP3065 gets me close, but not quite there on pump 92. I've got choices to make, since its about to crap out on me.
Keep me updated on this. I may go that route if I can get it for a descent price or anything that you have with it, like the O2 housing and such or the whole setup.
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Old 06-09-2008, 02:42 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Keep me updated on this. I may go that route if I can get it for a descent price or anything that you have with it, like the O2 housing and such or the whole setup.

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Old 06-12-2008, 12:31 AM   #128 (permalink)
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FP3s are going in my car this weekend in place of the 1xs. Very happy.
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Old 06-12-2008, 09:26 AM   #129 (permalink)
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FP3s are going in my car this weekend in place of the 1xs. Very happy.

Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
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That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.


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Old 06-12-2008, 09:55 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
Message - DSM Classifieds

Blank
That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.
Sounds like he already has them. I second the fixing the problems first but those cams are def a better choice. Do both
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Old 06-12-2008, 01:57 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NewTurboTuner View Post
Unless you worked a killer deal for those, you might want to consider these....
Message - DSM Classifieds

Blank
That would be good with my ported SB mani ((we can switch mani's now. I'll run your warped mani with a block-off plate until my HKS goes on))

Plus installing the AFPR.

Upgrading from fp1x to fp3 might give you 25-30whp max, but you'll still have tuning issues which dosent help get max power from what you already have.

If you fix your fuel pressure problems, MAF problems, and Exhaust/o2 reading problems, then you could probably get at least 25-30whp just from fixing those problems and getting a good tune.

The cost for the cams..... is about the same price as all of those other items together.
The only difference between fp3 cams and fp2x cams is that the exhaust cam is retarded about 3 crank degrees. And there is a HUGE difference between fp2x cams and the fp1x cams he currently has.


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Old 06-12-2008, 03:48 PM   #132 (permalink)
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AS far as a 255 over running a stock FPR, yes it may be in "over run" meaning the pressure is higher than it should be and there's nothing that can be done. But i will say this YOU CAN TUNE AROUND IT! I did for years. When i popped my motor i had to sell some things to fund the rebuild and my AFPR and rail were a couple of them, so i ran a stock FPR for the last 5 years with no issues what so ever. Of course i'm on a full stnad alone, but any good tuning device should be able to lower pulse width enough that the tune wil be right.

Where your real problem comes in is under higher boosts where the fule pressure would be getting high normally, with a stock FPR it's getting REALLY HIGH and you start to run the danger of the injectors not opening right because of the pressure.

I hear so much stuff on forums about"you can't do this" "you can't do that" well most of it can be done, but may have some drawbacks, it's not like the car will jsut shut off and refuse to run or can't be tuned.. Hell everyone says 720's are too small for e85, well one person on here has made 445 horses on 750's and my 255 pump gave up the ghost on flow before my 720's did on my tune on E85, and that was at 24psi on a t3/t4 57 trim garrett turbo, so it flows decent air. Sorry to vent about "it can't be done" posts i see so much on here, but i had to
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:01 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Turboglenn, I agree completely. With Dsmlink the way to tune around it is using the lower airflow sliders for the idle and cruise. You have to tune them anyway. Or this formula helps:

FlowFactor = sqrt(NewPress / OldPress)

For example, let’s say you have increased base pressure from the factory value of 43.5psi
to 55psi:
FlowFactor2G = sqrt(55 / 43.5) = 1.1244

Applying this adjustment to the example above running 720s gives the following global
fuel adjustment:
Adj2G = 450 / 720 / 1.1244 – 1.0 = 0.5559 – 1.0 = -0.444 or –44.4%
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:34 PM   #134 (permalink)
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AS far as a 255 over running a stock FPR, yes it may be in "over run" meaning the pressure is higher than it should be and there's nothing that can be done. But i will say this YOU CAN TUNE AROUND IT! I did for years. When i popped my motor i had to sell some things to fund the rebuild and my AFPR and rail were a couple of them, so i ran a stock FPR for the last 5 years with no issues what so ever. Of course i'm on a full stnad alone, but any good tuning device should be able to lower pulse width enough that the tune wil be right.

Where your real problem comes in is under higher boosts where the fule pressure would be getting high normally, with a stock FPR it's getting REALLY HIGH and you start to run the danger of the injectors not opening right because of the pressure.

I hear so much stuff on forums about"you can't do this" "you can't do that" well most of it can be done, but may have some drawbacks, it's not like the car will jsut shut off and refuse to run or can't be tuned.. Hell everyone says 720's are too small for e85, well one person on here has made 445 horses on 750's and my 255 pump gave up the ghost on flow before my 720's did on my tune on E85, and that was at 24psi on a t3/t4 57 trim garrett turbo, so it flows decent air. Sorry to vent about "it can't be done" posts i see so much on here, but i had to
It's not that it can't be done it just shouldn't. Using a standalone to fix a half ass setup is just a REALLY BIG BANDAID!! I have no idea what your ranting about in the last part but why would a injector be too small for e85?? 750's are good for 500hp cars that's comon knowledge so why is 445 such a big deal

Anyway OP we're trying to help you but it's like you asking for a way around getting the rght part and no one on here wants to tell you to half ass your build because while some have been ok like turboglenn most haven't. Do it right do it once.
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:41 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I have no idea what your ranting about in the last part but why would a injector be too small for e85?? 750's are good for 500hp cars that's comon knowledge so why is 445 such a big deal
E-85 requires more fuel then regular gasoline, I believe it is 30% more.
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:58 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Hate to say it but turboglenn is pretty right. I know what "do it right" means and i know how to do it. IM WORKING WITH WHAT I GOT AVAILABLE TO ME. That doesnt apply to you steve. I know you know my situation. Getting a afpr will fix one of my problems that i dont even care about. Slippi I appreciate your input but its like your not getting what Im saying. Im not going out and buying anything. These are all parts that are either traded or i trade work for. Its not like the people I trade with have an open inventory of shit to choose from. I get what they got. *Correction* The cams are 3xs. Im really shying away from GM MAF and leaning more towards AEM. Ill post numbers with the 3xs in and MAYBE a regulator if I can work something out.
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Old 06-13-2008, 12:26 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Hate to say it but turboglenn is pretty right. I know what "do it right" means and i know how to do it. IM WORKING WITH WHAT I GOT AVAILABLE TO ME. That doesnt apply to you steve. I know you know my situation. Getting a afpr will fix one of my problems that i dont even care about. Slippi I appreciate your input but its like your not getting what Im saying. Im not going out and buying anything. These are all parts that are either traded or i trade work for. Its not like the people I trade with have an open inventory of shit to choose from. I get what they got. *Correction* The cams are 3xs. Im really shying away from GM MAF and leaning more towards AEM. Ill post numbers with the 3xs in and MAYBE a regulator if I can work something out.
We all own dsm's trust me we all know what yoru talking about. If we had tons of money to get whatever we want when w want it then we probably wouldn't have these cars in the first place. You say your not going out and buying anything and start talkingabout EMS . SO your gonna shy away from a $300 max setup for a $1200 setup that you wil have to pay someone 300 minimum just to get you a tune that will make your car run Listen I'm no telling the right way I'm telling you teh dsm way which ischeapest and yet still works. Your tune is beat becaus you havea HUGE variable. Forget this 2g maf and 4" inake is bad BS
Photo_042907_011 That'smy old 1g. GT14 with 4" intake and 2g maf as you can see. As you can also see a AFPR. I had a wabro 255hp intank with stock lines. I know exactly what your going through and TRUST me what you think you dont care about is what's part of your bigger problem. Without the ability to tune right you will run rich/lean and not be able to run right = not being able to boost. Save up charge people for the work your doing instead of trading till you can get a afpr than see what's not working.

Edit: By the way fp3x's are pretty dam aggressive cams. You will lose vaccume a idle which will make things even more interesting. Those are actually geare more for a stroker motor.
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Old 06-13-2008, 12:32 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1992awdlaser View Post
Turboglenn, I agree completely. With Dsmlink the way to tune around it is using the lower airflow sliders for the idle and cruise. You have to tune them anyway. Or this formula helps:

FlowFactor = sqrt(NewPress / OldPress)

For example, let’s say you have increased base pressure from the factory value of 43.5psi
to 55psi:
FlowFactor2G = sqrt(55 / 43.5) = 1.1244

Applying this adjustment to the example above running 720s gives the following global
fuel adjustment: