What turbo/manifold should I buy? 450 whp - Page 2

layzie12g · 05-26-2008, 02:14 AM

We got it back on the dyno today. 27 psi at about 4900. That is on pump gas. No knock thanks to real low timing. Made the same peak hp numbers but it peaked alot sooner. At 6k it made 408 today. I think im going to turn the boost down a little tomorrow. The car really hauls ass though. My 4th gear pulls like my 3rd gear did with the evo3. I need a smim. I guess meth is going to be coming up on my to do list even though i kinda wanted to see how far i could go with out. I want to race it but i cant hurt my tranny. So i guess im going to be going from rolls for a while. I feel like a honda.

silver bullit · 05-26-2008, 03:11 AM

Pics?

layzie12g · 05-26-2008, 03:22 AM

I got 2 of them up. One of them looks just like my other pic from before with the evo 3 the turbo is just bigger. Now the question is how long will my new bottom end last at 27 psi??? I want some input on this from wisemen or anyone that has experience pushing their rebuilt stock bottom ends. I have ARP rod bolts and head studs. When we tuned the car we were running virtually no timing up top. Very little knock during 3rd and 4th gear pulls. An occasional .4 every now and then. DSM link by the way. This car is my dd and i do a few 3rd gear pulls daily. Any good info would be appreciated.

Jst4Cyl · 05-26-2008, 03:43 AM

Have you tried improving spool up times? Rich'n it up/adding timing?

What does it feel like around 20 psi ? (rpm that you see this at)

If you had it to do over would you have went smaller to gain some spool time. Like a 6031 DBB?

1992awdlaser · 05-26-2008, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layzie12g

I got 2 of them up. One of them looks just like my other pic from before with the evo 3 the turbo is just bigger. Now the question is how long will my new bottom end last at 27 psi??? I want some input on this from wisemen or anyone that has experience pushing their rebuilt stock bottom ends. I have ARP rod bolts and head studs. When we tuned the car we were running virtually no timing up top. Very little knock during 3rd and 4th gear pulls. An occasional .4 every now and then. DSM link by the way. This car is my dd and i do a few 3rd gear pulls daily. Any good info would be appreciated.

I run 28psi on pump or race gas with a 50 trim annd stock bottom end. For race gas I just add timing and lean itt out a little.

dsm-onster · 05-26-2008, 11:02 AM

Well. Boost is really an immaterial side effect of forcing higher flow. A friend of mine pushed 43+ lbs/min with an 18g with a daily driver. 27ish psi.

But a concise answer: The stock 7-bolt shortblock in good condition can handle up to 430-450whp and still remain a reliable machine. A 6-bolt in good condition cn tolerate 500-550whp conistantly. I've pushed mine to over 50lb/min on a healthy tune with water injection. It's about peak cylinder pressure, not boost.

NewTurboTuner · 05-26-2008, 03:49 PM

I run a rebuilt stock internal motor.
I trapped 130MPH @ 27psi w/ race gas, but I don't drive it that hard on the street.

Right now I'm at 23psi (with 101oct pump gas to be safe) and it makes 430awhp on a Dyno Dynamics @ 23psi. This is as high as I want to go for street driving my stock internal motor.

For commuting I run 18-19psi w/ 92oct pump gas. It's safe, cheap(er), and makes about 350awhp like that.

I'm actually surprised my motor is holding up as well as it has. It has about 12k miles on since the rebuild. I didnt expect it to last this long but hey..... Great!

layzie12g · 05-26-2008, 04:10 PM

Man I thinks something is wrong with my car then. I just went out and did some freeway pulls and Im seeing sings of bad rings. Smoke when boost hits in 2nd gear and it wants to blow the dipstick after a 4th gear pull. Im pulled the upper intercooler pipe to check for oil from the turbo and nothing. This rebuilt 6 bolt has about 6k on it. Oil is being burnt from some where. Ive lost about half a quart after id say 20 dyno pulls and street pulls. Im doing a compression check later. Mine is pushing about 50 lbs a min.

layzie12g · 05-26-2008, 05:31 PM

The more that i check my oil I think the car wasnt flat when i checked before. Its right underneath the full mark on the dip stick and i have never smelled any burnt oil. Im going to try a pcv valve tomorrow. Right now i have one of the cheap shucks ones and im getting an oem one tomorrow. From what everyone else is saying I think my car should have made more power then it did. I think its going back on the dyno tomorrow for a low boost higher timing tune.

chavez408 · 05-26-2008, 09:24 PM

So this turbo compares to a 30r..?

Jst4Cyl · 05-26-2008, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl

Have you tried improving spool up times? Rich'n it up/adding timing?

What does it feel like around 20 psi ? (rpm that you see this at)

If you had it to do over would you have went smaller to gain some spool time. Like a 6031 DBB?

? ? ? ? ?

T9S1i · 05-26-2008, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chavez408

So this turbo compares to a 30r..?

the 6152 is a gt35

layzie12g · 05-26-2008, 11:16 PM

I tried to call you Jst4cylinder but it you didnt pick up. I have a huge exhaust leak where the wastegate bolts to the manifold thanks to the flange on the manifold warping. From what i here people with the non ball bearing version of the 6152 are seeing 20 psi at like 4500ish. I turned the boost down to 25 psi for now to be safe. Ill keep you all posted as the days go on. The 4 inch intake problem with the maf is really pissing me off though. Any one that has had the same problem using a 4 inch intake with a bb turbo and that still used the stock maf should pm me about it. I found out why the car was dying thanks to a dsmlink forum. Everyone else that runs a 4 inch intake with the maf and no gm maf seems to have the exact same problem.

Jst4Cyl · 05-27-2008, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T9S1i

the 6152 is a gt35

It actually isn't. It has the same compressor wheel but not the same exhaust.

Specs on 6152
A/R Ratio: .63
Garrett Compressor Wheel Trim: 56
Garrett Turbine Wheel Trim: 76

Specs on 35r
Compressor Specs:
Trim: 56
A/R: 0.70

Turbine Specs:
Wheel Diameter: 68.0mm
Trim: 84
A/R: 0.63, 0.82, 1.06

dsm-onster · 05-27-2008, 08:01 AM

Cheap pcv valves won't cut it at stock boost pressure. An oem one may not be able to handle 27psi. One of mine did, and another didn't. For a while I just ran an open valve cover. My oil, however, got dirty very fast. Now I run a large automotive vacuum checkvalve in series with the pcv valve and everything is fine. I will need a catchcan soon, though, because build up will clog/foul the vacuum check valve.

I run a 2g maf and a turbo with a 4" intake opening (holset). I run a 3" hard intake pipe with a 4"-3" reducer (home depot rubber drain reducer) at the turbo. My 2g maf installs to the intake pipe just like the vfaq suggests. I have had zero issues and it flows very well, IMHO. Cheap and effective. Pics in my gallery. And my avatar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewTurboTuner

I run a rebuilt stock internal motor.
I trapped 130MPH @ 27psi w/ race gas, but I don't drive it that hard on the street.

Right now I'm at 23psi (with 101oct pump gas to be safe) and it makes 430awhp on a Dyno Dynamics @ 23psi. This is as high as I want to go for street driving my stock internal motor.

For commuting I run 18-19psi w/ 92oct pump gas. It's safe, cheap(er), and makes about 350awhp like that.

I'm actually surprised my motor is holding up as well as it has. It has about 12k miles on since the rebuild. I didnt expect it to last this long but hey..... Great!

Well, you have a 6-bolt. It can tolerate nearly 100whp more over a very long period of time.

for the 6bolt.

layzie12g · 05-28-2008, 02:06 PM

I got rid of the pcv valve and put a nipple on the valvecover and ran a hose to the ground. Seems to have fixed my problem. The car does not burn oil or want to push the dip stick. That makes me wonder about my 4 inch intake pipe on my car. I think the 3 inch is the way to go but I dont want to change it yet. Im going to get the car on the dyno again today and try to play with it some more. Whats the leanest you guys would go on pump? Its 11.8ish right now with a rich dip of 10.9 when boost comes on.

layzie12g · 05-28-2008, 02:16 PM

The compressor side of my turbo a/r is .70 too by the way

1992awdlaser · 05-28-2008, 02:35 PM

11.8 is pretty lean for pump in my oppinion. What kind of timing are you getting out of it? Personally, I would richen it up some and see if I could add more timing. Timing will make power before a leaner mixture.

dsm-onster · 05-28-2008, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layzie12g

Whats the leanest you guys would go on pump? Its 11.8ish right now with a rich dip of 10.9 when boost comes on.

I'd work it the other way and see what happens: retard the timing where boost comes on and run leaner. This will really improve spool speed (timing retard AND a lean burn). And should help the knock that likes to crop up at peak torque. Feed it more timing as the rpms rise and tune for a flat 11-11.5:1 after boost hits with pumpgas.