Here's some good S256 dyno testing that's just been done by Keith at Pure-Tuning in Florida.
This is on 2 different 4g63 setups. He used a .55 a/r and a .70 a/r. The 2 setups were completely different except that they were both 4g63 - NOT HONDA or SCION. For a change.
Note this was on a Mustang dyno which everybody says reads low, especially when compared with Dynojet.
Check out Keith's comments in post #13. Here's a little bit of it:
Way to go Pure-Tuning!
Gary
The thing I don't like about the test is that the setups are completely different,however the #'s look good but are very peaky and laggy on the 2.3L setup.
He should put an entire TS setup on the 2.3L and see what he gets.
Don't like the comparison at all if I'm comparing both turbo setups. Too many variables.
The thing I don't like about the test is that the setups are completely different,however the #'s look good but are very peaky and laggy on the 2.3L setup.
He should put an entire TS setup on the 2.3L and see what he gets.
Don't like the comparison at all if I'm comparing both turbo setups. Too many variables.
I'm buying an S258 Shortly - Where'd you guys get those flanges? and also I have a oil drain flange/line for a TO4B Vtrim (10an Braid) is that going to work, or am I going to need different bolts and a new flange? I heard these are British pipe thread correct?
I got it from BEP as well. Did anyone get the threaded drain flange as well? Just wondering what you guys did with that? I wanted to just throw a barbed fitting on there and then clamp on a drain line, but the guy at the hardware store said that it's not the right design of fitting to just screw on a barbed fitting. I'm not hardware expert, so just wondering what you all are using.
Hey guys, here is a little log. I just got the car back together after a little winter break (although it is snowing right now) and am starting to tune the S256 again.
Here is my first log, at 16psi in 2nd gear. It isn't much of one. I wasn't even full throttle, but take a look at the airflow, gm3.3bar, and hp estimate. I will have to get a log of low rpm full throttle, so spool up characteristics can be seen
It looks like boost est is about 1 psi more, but I am running a stock mas with fake maf currently turned off. Air temps look to be 62 degrees, so airflow is looking to be pretty close. HP estimate is showing 323WHP with zero drivetrain loss entered. I am at 6000ft.
Don't pay attention to my PLXWB. It was reading way leaner than normal because of an exhaust leak. I fixed that this evening.
Remember, this is on a bolt on housing and I let off at around 6800-7000 rpm.
The car is, knock on wood, running great right now. I have had a few problems here and there, but have worked through them.
The car now has a Dynatek ARC-2 on it with plugs gapped to .032. Runs great at 32PSI to 8000rpm+. I did the Saturn alternator swap and that fixed my charging issues under full boost and also gave my fuel pump just enough to keep me at around 11.9:1 with E85. The next thing I have to do it looks like is, tune my ve table and use fake maf and use MAP. I have needed to do that starting at around 29PSI.
I just haven't had as much time lately, because work got really busy. I hope to have it to the track and/or dyno soon.
Yeah, I've been watching that thread along with a few others but I just cant get enough info to push me over the edge on my choices. I've been looking at the SCM6152 (haven't decided in journal or DBB yet) and also these Borg Warner turbos. I have a thread going over here, I just can't make up my mind.
I have an S256 on my car, but I spun a rod bearing before I had a chance to really push it at all. Now I'm getting an engine built for it (or as Jst4Cyl would say, I'm letting another guy boink my wife hoping she'll get pregnant so I can brag about it - although I see it more like sending my wife to a plastic surgeon to get bigger boobs and I get to brag about boinking her; afterall, the fun is in driving the car which the engine builder doesn't get to do) and hopefully I'll get some results before the summer is over. I also am using the bolt on housing like AWDER. I'm probably only looking to make 450whp max, so that isn't a real problem for me. When I'm ready for more power, if the bolt on housing won't accomodate that, I'll upgrade to the bigger T3.
I have an S256 on my car, but I spun a rod bearing before I had a chance to really push it at all. Now I'm getting an engine built for it (or as Jst4Cyl would say, I'm letting another guy boink my wife hoping she'll get pregnant so I can brag about it - although I see it more like sending my wife to a plastic surgeon to get bigger boobs and I get to brag about boinking her; afterall, the fun is in driving the car which the engine builder doesn't get to do) and hopefully I'll get some results before the summer is over. I also am using the bolt on housing like AWDER. I'm probably only looking to make 450whp max, so that isn't a real problem for me. When I'm ready for more power, if the bolt on housing won't accomodate that, I'll upgrade to the bigger T3.
I like the quote. My reasoning is that this way you can only be mad at yourself if something fails. I'd rather be mad at myself rather than be out $500-$1200 for a build.
Yeah, I hear that, but somebody else is going to be doing something on your car - you aren't building your own turbo or forging your own pistons or even doing your own machine work. There will always be plenty of opportunities for someone else to screw up your car.
Also, perhaps instead of saying "then you brag about it when she gets pregnant" you could instead say, "then you complain about it when she catches something" (ie, a metaphore for when you and your car suffer for the builder's mistake).
I didn't get any good logs with the new turbo. Mostly just tuning the fuel trims.
Here's my S362 setup at idle. Not too exciting but it is progress. Just got the SMIM manifold and NT TB on. Will be out doing some rippers tonight hopefully!
I've been working on tuning this thing with the help of some guys over on the Link forums. The last log I did, I was seeing 25psi at 5k RPM, flowing up to 47lbs/min. I did turn the MBC up a little bit later on this evening. Not sure what boost I was at, but I'm guessing around 30psi. This thing is really starting to haul some arse.
Soo anyway, would you guys recommend the S256 to someone that currently has a MHI Evo III 16g? I am looking for a tad over 400 at the wheels now. My goal WAS 380whp with the evo turbo. But I really don't want to have to use meth to reach it cause I know one day I will forget to fill that shit lol.
Note: I hate and I mean HATE lag. Some where in this thread I think I read someone saying there S256 setup spooled before 4k...if so I think I could live with that.
Lag should not be an issue when you are looking at a larger turbo. I don't, and I'm assuming you don't eather need 400awhp to get around town haha. I'm still on the 14b and I barely see 5 psi when I am driving around town. The 56, should spool a little sooner than that, that almost sound like a 58 spool time.
Some where in this thread I think I read someone saying there S256 setup spooled before 4k...if so I think I could live with that.
Yeah, it can and has been done, but it probably isn't the norm for a 2.0L. That is what you'll see with some free flowing strokers, but with a 2.0L with 2.5" exhaust (what you have), you probably wouldn't see full boost below 4500rpm. Of course, everyone's car is different. I'd use your E3 16g spool up as a guide. Where does it hit full spool? I'd say an S256 will hit about 500-800rpm later.
On the other hand, instead of having to pull out all the tricks to hit the number, hitting 400whp on an S256 will be child's play.
Here's my S362 setup at idle. Not too exciting but it is progress. Just got the SMIM manifold and NT TB on. Will be out doing some rippers tonight hopefully!
your car looks good man! best of luck with the new setup.
____________________________
Marti
VIP Garage
Borg Warner Distributor
- although I see it more like sending my wife to a plastic surgeon to get bigger boobs and I get to brag about boinking her; afterall, the fun is in driving the car which the engine builder doesn't get to do) and hopefully I'll get some results before the summer is over. I also am using the bolt on housing like AWDER. I'm probably only looking to make 450whp max, so that isn't a real problem for me. When I'm ready for more power, if the bolt on housing won't accomodate that, I'll upgrade to the bigger T3.
I like the quote. My reasoning is that this way you can only be mad at yourself if something fails. I'd rather be mad at myself rather than be out $500-$1200 for a build. 