installing a boost fitting in my fp3065 or intercooler pipe..

[AL92]

I want to take my wastegate boost source off either my turbo or intercooler pipe. But my fp turbo has no fitting. I guess just buy a 1/4 inch one and drill and tap it into the turbo outlet or my intercooler pipe,probably the latter. Anyone else done this or did you all run your external gates off the intake manifold or teed off the blow off line.I hear having it teed off the blowoff can cause improper blow off valve operation and not be good for turbo.
Tial shows wastgate source is supposed to be before the throttle blades.

 

[DarthBulk]

I just did the exact same thing. I have an FP3052, and the Dejon Tool FMIC and piping. I just drilled a hole in the small 90 degree elbow that attaches to the turbo outlet, and welded a 1/4 NPT bung in there. Then I installed a hose barb nipple, and ran the line from there to my TIAL external wastegate. I wish they would have had a fitting on the turbo or the outlet pipe already.

 

[99gst_racer]

I tapped my compressor cover on my 50-trim. I would recommend it to anyone as I was very pleased with the results. I will never again recommend using the BOV line as a wastegate pressure source. My BOV now operates more efficiently (IE. faster and cleaner). It no longer flutters, and it closes much quicker also. And, it is nice to have that short hose there instead of coming from the TB to the BOV to the wastegate.....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[daren_p]

I have the evoIII so I installed the barb fitting in the j-pipe. If you do choose to tap the lower ic pipe I would recommend a 1/8" npt barb. I tried 1/4" npt on a spare piece of pipe I had that was the same diameter & it didn't want to thread properly (though might not be an issue as ic pipe is usually 2.25 or 2.5" while my jpipe is 2"). Once installed I silver soldered it (1800 F) in place to make sure of no boost leaks.

 

[DarthBulk]

I know that on my FP3052, there is a flat boss on the compressor housing outlet, that looks like it is meant to be drilled and tapped for a fitting. I welded the bung into my IC pipe elbow because I did not want to remove the turbo to drill that out. Taking the elbow out was much easier. If you aren't going to weld in a bung, then I would recommend something smaller that 1/4 NPT as well...You can't tap that kind of thread into the thin wall of the IC piping.

 

[1SloColt]

Theoretically the car should have better response if you take your boost source from the intake manifold.

 

[daren_p]

Theoretically the car should have better response if you take your boost source from the intake manifold.

Why do you say this/what are the reasons?

 

[1SloColt]

If you ran the source off the manifold the gate would stay closed longer because full boost is going to be seen at the turbo outlet before it will be seen at the manifold, resulting in better response, that is also why you see bleeder holes in boost controllers, to help bleed off the pressure so when you shift the gate stays closed a little bit longer. My turbo is on the large side of things for a street car and it actually has very good response, which surprise most of my fellow 35r enthusiast, since mine is a standard bearing 35r variant basically.

 

[daren_p]

If you ran the source off the manifold the gate would stay closed longer because full boost is going to be seen at the turbo outlet before it will be seen at the manifold, resulting in better response, that is also why you see bleeder holes in boost controllers, to help bleed off the pressure so when you shift the gate stays closed a little bit longer. My turbo is on the large side of things for a street car and it actually has very good response, which surprise most of my fellow 35r enthusiast, since mine is a standard bearing 35r variant basically.

This usually leads to boost spikes & makes the overall control not as good since you are sourceing the pressure so far away from the source, basically it leads to more lag time (when it senses a change and does something about it). Another downfall is if you have boost leaks you are making the turbo overcome these leaks, sometimes making the turbo work outside of its efficiency range, leading to an early failure.

Maybe with very large turbo's this isn't as much of an issue since they take longer to react. I do know I have run my evoIII with it sourced from both bov & jpipe & the control & boost spikes were terrible with it sourced from the bov.

 

[1SloColt]

This usually leads to boost spikes & makes the overall control not as good since you are sourceing the pressure so far away from the source, basically it leads to more lag time (when it senses a change and does something about it).

Then you must not run a very good controller. I want that lag time so the gate will stay closed longer, this increases response. A good boost controller/exhaust will reduce spikes. Larger turbos usually don't spike, if anything they'll creep.

Another downfall is if you have boost leaks you are making the turbo overcome these leaks, sometimes making the turbo work outside of its efficiency range, leading to an early failure.

I don't have boost leaks, and if I do they are very minute. I check the system about twice a month to make sure it can hold a charge.

Maybe with very large turbo's this isn't as much of an issue since they take longer to react. I do know I have run my evoIII with it sourced from both bov & jpipe & the control & boost spikes were terrible with it sourced from the bov.

That is strange, because the internal gate turbos I've worked with (18g, 50 trim) have never had problems with spikes using good boost controllers, no boost leaks, properly adjusted wastegate actuators, and 3" exhausts.

 

[daren_p]

Then you must not run a very good controller. I want that lag time so the gate will stay closed longer, this increases response. A good boost controller/exhaust will reduce spikes. Larger turbos usually don't spike, if anything they'll creep.


I don't have boost leaks, and if I do they are very minute. I check the system about twice a month to make sure it can hold a charge.


That is strange, because the internal gate turbos I've worked with (18g, 50 trim) have never had problems with spikes using good boost controllers, no boost leaks, properly adjusted wastegate actuators, and 3" exhausts.

As for not running a good controller, what do you call a good controller? I've run a TurboXS HPMBC, JoeP IL, & Greddy Profec Type S. They all do the same thing when sourced from the bov. As for the boost leaks I was talking in gereral, as a boost leak can occur at anytime. Yes most guys that know their car should be able to tell when they get a fairly large boost leak, but again I was just listing some downfalls with the bov sourced there. Not to mention you see both vacuum and pressure from that location.

 

[oldman]

The BOV line is the worst pressure source, just the fact that as soon as the wastegate pressure relief hole starts to bleed off pressure, the bov will open prematurely during WOT should be convincing enough to leave the BOV line alone. Boost leaks can also develop anytime, tapping the compressor housing will assure that you know about the leak immediately as the boost gauge will tell you so.

If you ran the source off the manifold the gate would stay closed longer because full boost is going to be seen at the turbo outlet before it will be seen at the manifold, resulting in better response

Doesn't common sense tell you this is the cause boost spike? A delay in pressure signal?

that is also why you see bleeder holes in boost controllers, to help bleed off the pressure so when you shift the gate stays closed a little bit longer.

Actually that not why the bleeder hole is there, it's there to ensure the wastegate close at all, without it the gate will never close causing little to no boost after you get back on.

After helping out countless members with boost spike, boost leak and surge issues pointing to tapping the BOV line, I'm convinced that the compressor housing (as close to the turbo as possible) is the best source. If you still feel that the manifold pressure gives you more control, at least find a different source other than the BOV line. Keep in mind that the fpr and brake booster line, just like the BOV line, should not be used for the same reasons cited for BOV.

AL92, a 1/8 npt to 1/8" fitting will be big enough, my t04s cover was tapped with 1/8 npt right out of Garrett. The end of the compressor outlet will have more meat than the licp, tap it near the exit so you can reach in with a dremel to grind off what ever sticks out on the inside.

 

[TargeT]

I had a bung welded on at the elbo right before the LIC enters my FMIC, (which just happens to be right below where the waste gate is)