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Wobble

20+ Year Contributor
726
0
Jan 2, 2003
I dont get it..

I have an extreme motor sports A/F gauge.. it reads as such

||| |||| |||

the first 3 bars are red.. for lean, the last 3 bars are green for RITCH.. the middle 4 bars are yellow for stoic..

before I always had 2 green bars.. i tuned it this way VIA the mass air adjustment screw.. but latley ive been getting leaner and leaner..

I noticed it a few weeks ago.. i was only getting 4 yellow bars and no green. .. so i adjusted the screw a tad and got it to 4 yellows and 1 green... (at WOT) then after a few days i was back to getting just 4 yellow and no green.. so I adjusted it a turn or so more rich and got 4 yellow and 1 green again.. this process repted itself a few more times.. not the screw is as far "ritch" as it will go.. so what do i do when it starts reading only 4 yellow again.. and WHY is it doing this? i havent made any adjustments.. havent raised boost.. nothing.. it just keeps reading leaner and leaner.. i dont get it!
 
find someone with a pocketlogger or something to get better info. your 02 sensor could be dying or your fuel filter may be getting clogged...many many other things. we need more info
 
or stop messing with that damn screw that your not supposed to be messing with and buy a S-AFC or MAF translator...
 
well the fuel filter is brand new, that "damn screw" was the only way i could avoid running SUPER ritch before and it worked like a charm.. the O2 sensor is less than 4 months old..

:confused:
 
also, the car doesent seem to run any different..

and this problem started just after i replaced the clutch.. i cant fathom how a new clutch would alter a/f.. but who knows..
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
find someone with a pocketlogger or something to get better info. we need more info
like what does your timing look like, how much boost are you running, what pump do you have, what is the actual 02 voltage (not which light it is). Like I said-more info is needed
 
well im running about 17PSI on the ole t25 (about to put a 14b on, just need an install kit) as for the actual voltage of the 02.. what is a good way to get it? do i need a special meter? or just a normal voltmeter..
 
a dvm could get it for you, but it would be good to know what your timing looks like as well.

as for the 14B, get creative. several people have put them on for less than $25 (no install kit needed)
 
as for the 14B, get creative. several people have put them on for less than $25 (no install kit needed)


WHAT! gimme some info on this. I already have the turbo and everything, ive been saving up for that cursed $300+ install kit.. how can I get it on for less?
 
get creative...

water lines-reuse, I used one 14b line and one t25 line.
oil return-file the bolt holes closer together and reuse stocker
oil feed-use the first half of the t25 line and the last half of the 14b line and connect with fuel injection hose.
air-cut the stocker b/w the 2 elbows and put in 10" long 2" I.D. exhaust tubing with beads welded on the ends. connect to stock 14b outlet.

midas did the ex tube for me for free including the pipe and welding
the only money I spent was on fuel line and hose clamps.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how the small t25 fitting fits in the oil feed hole in the mitsu center. I could have sworn the t25 feed hole was smaller?

For anyone looking at purchasing an install kit, get the RRE hacker/tweaker kit and read the notes by TS in red in the 16g install vfaq about the water lines. Reuse the metal gaskets. Works everytime, and its only 200 bucks instead of the more common 300 dollar kit. Takes some extra time to file out the bolt holes though for the drain, no biggie.
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
get creative...
oil feed-use the first half of the t25 line and the last half of the 14b line and connect with fuel injection hose.

it doesn't which is why you do this. you reuse the banjo bolt from "the last half of the 14b line"
 
I did missunderstand the first time... So use the last half of the 1g 14b line? Why not just use the whole thing and prevent the chance of getting leaks from a rigged up line? I just did a 6 bolt swap for a 2g that used a rigged up feed line. There was oil all over the place. Depsite the fact that it "didnt leak." heh. But hey, whatever works. I'm all about homemade parts....
 
i prefer the 'just filtered' oil right out of the cooler as opposed to the oil that has already traveled all the way through the head, so that's why I did it.

I flared the lines on the ends to keep it from leaking.
 
Originally posted by Wobble
I dont get it..

I have an extreme motor sports A/F gauge.. it reads as such

||| |||| |||

the first 3 bars are red.. for lean, the last 3 bars are green for RITCH.. the middle 4 bars are yellow for stoic..

before I always had 2 green bars.. i tuned it this way VIA the mass air adjustment screw.. but latley ive been getting leaner and leaner..

I noticed it a few weeks ago.. i was only getting 4 yellow bars and no green. .. so i adjusted the screw a tad and got it to 4 yellows and 1 green... (at WOT) then after a few days i was back to getting just 4 yellow and no green.. so I adjusted it a turn or so more rich and got 4 yellow and 1 green again.. this process repted itself a few more times.. not the screw is as far "ritch" as it will go.. so what do i do when it starts reading only 4 yellow again.. and WHY is it doing this? i havent made any adjustments.. havent raised boost.. nothing.. it just keeps reading leaner and leaner.. i dont get it!
Check your fuel pump or your fuelpump sock.It happened to me twice
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
i prefer the 'just filtered' oil right out of the cooler as opposed to the oil that has already traveled all the way through the head, so that's why I did it.

I flared the lines on the ends to keep it from leaking.

Sounds good. Some people do prefer the 2g location, while other like the 1g location. For the record, I also use the 2g location :)
 
ok, sorry to drag this back on topic.. BUT its gotten BAD!

I just put on my EGT today and took it for a highway pull...

everything was fine till about 5000 in 3rd.. then there was a RAPID leaning out and the EGTS hauled ass for the 1600 F mark and i let off.. looked under hood.. wow glowing manifold..

could something be wrong with my fuel pump? im running 17PSI with a 1g head and full exhaust.. is the stocker not up to the task?

someone told me about a "sock" on the fuel pump that can cause problems.. my fuel filter is less than 4 months old so i doubt thats it.. but i guess ya never know.. ??????

PLEASE help.. im gonna turn my boost down a bit to like 15 or so for now and not get on it much to try and curb the insanity.. HELP!
 
the sock is a 'pre-filter' it is in the gas tank on the bottom of the pump. it can get clogged as well. you might as well replace the pump if you are going to be in there checking it. some have found the walboro 190 for as little as $80. You're getting to the point of needing a pump anyway.
 
yea, makes sense.. but get this at 12PSI i STILL lean out.. its like insta-lean too.. at 4500rpm.. plenty of fuel.. at 5500 super lean... its odd.. its pissing me off too, i guess im gonna start a spot check of the entire fuel system starting from the motor and going back...

lets see here:

injectors.. no way should i need bigger ones yet.. but could they be a little clogged or something?

fuel filter.. its pretty new but ya never know i guess

fuel lines.. they are copper and run along the bottom of the car.. i guess its not totally impossable for a rock to have been kicked up and kinked the line.. unlikley of course..

and of course the pump.. ill goahead and do the favored rewire.. i can just tap the 12V off my amp which is pretty near.. and of course check the sock and whatnot..

after that its all :confused: :cry:
 
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