ok, I tried putting the 2g MAF on it and was a pain so I did not put it on. I will probably just sell it and wait for DSMlink if I can ever afford it so I can use the Speed Density feature. I was able to set the timing to ~2° BTDC but the logger never showed below 7°. I even tried turning the CAS all the way till it stopped and the logger still showed 7°. I did have the timing grounded. Not sure what is going on there. With everything set the same, I did a pull and logged it. It is still doing the exact same thing
I am not sure how to remove the extras out of there. If anyone can fill me in on that I would appreciate it.
I am about to the point to put the 450's back in there and run 15 psi like I was since the $300 worth of upgrade parts is not doing me a bit of good if I can only run it at the same boost level as the 450's.
Like steve said you have to manual adjust the timing numbers unless you logger has a feature to adjust base timing like MMCD.
Did you leave the timing at 2* base. You should hear the motors idle change when you lower the timing and you are using a timing light right?
I think you have a PK and real knock issue. Does you car get rid of all lower rpm knock if you release the gas and get back on it real fast?
The reason releasing the gas and getting back in it clears the knock is because the ECU is coded to 0 the knock count at 0% throttle. It is still possibly it is the tune at this point, when letting off and getting back on it, the boost/timing curve does not make a knock event when the boost comes back.
If you want to know if it's real knock or not, turn the boost down a little and put in 116 octane and see what happens. If that takes care of the problem then it's a tuning problem.
I wound up going back to the 450 injectors for now. I am removing the SAFC and am going to try and sell it and find an EEPROM Ecu. It looks like the best way for me to tune is to get some type of EEPROM programmer and flash my own chips. If anyone know where I can find a good EEPROM ECU let me know It does not have to be socketed since I can do this myself.
Oh ok. I thought it was EEPROM since that stands for Electrically Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory and EPROM stands for Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory which can only be erased with an ultraviolet light.
Thanks for clearing that up
I am searching the classifieds now. Hopefully I don't get screwed again
And the factory 1G ECU has no provision to erase. The original chips are UV erasable EPROMS.
Some people use 27xxx series compatible Flash and EEPROMS but they are erased and programmed externally.
So there are other EPROM's that will work with our DSM's? I read somewhere that Motorola has a chip very similar to the one in the EPROM ECU's. It would be nice to have an external programmer so I can have a few chips laying around that I can tune with different settings.
I did look into that and I may go with that later down the road when the financial situation gets better. Since I have a little boy on the way in about a month, I need to watch how much I spend. I do have experience in programming so I am hoping I can get things rolling with a simple burner at first, then upgrade
The reason releasing the gas and getting back in it clears the knock is because the ECU is coded to 0 the knock count at 0% throttle. It is still possibly it is the tune at this point, when letting off and getting back on it, the boost/timing curve does not make a knock event when the boost comes back.
If you want to know if it's real knock or not, turn the boost down a little and put in 116 octane and see what happens. If that takes care of the problem then it's a tuning problem.
Hmmm, never thought of it that way. In my situation it is PK because I run e85 and I had the same knock at 10psi and 2g timing map(16*max) as I do at 32psi and a 1g timing map(22*max).
In his situation it must be real knock and like steve said It has to be because he is in the wrong part of the timing map.
So there are other EPROM's that will work with our DSM's?
The circuit board was done for a 27128 chip and only top 16k (C000 to EFFF) is mapped. You can use any compatible device like a 27C512 EPROM or a 27SF512 Flash or the now out of production AT29C256 EEPROM. As stated a Moates Ostrich works well too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleTalonTim
I read somewhere that Motorola has a chip very similar to the one in the EPROM ECU's. It would be nice to have an external programmer so I can have a few chips laying around that I can tune with different settings.
There are no pin compatible CPU replacements. The MH6111 is a member of the 6800 family with most of the M68HC11 instruction set but with some M6801 style features. All the code is in MH6111 assembler.
I messed with the settings on the logger and may have messed it up. The last log was good but why run 560 injectors at 15 psi when I can run 450 injectors at 15 psi with the exact same results To me, it is like saying "I have 1150 injectors, a GT4294 and can only push 4 psi".
I would second the ostrich purchase, not only is it awesome.. but you can sell it for the same price you bought it for. Then you end up being 2 components away from running Jackal
In my situation it is PK because I run e85 and I had the same knock at 10psi and 2g timing map(16*max) as I do at 32psi and a 1g timing map(22*max).
Sorry for getting off topic here but,
I run E85 as well... You probably do have PK BUT If I were you I would not assume that just because your running ethanol in it that your not ever getting any real knock...
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Are you still on a 1g maf? Is it hacked? I had almost the same exact issues with my 1g maf on a s16g and evo 560's at anything over 16-17psi. I tried just about everything and then I changed to a 2g maf and now I'm running 22psi with 0 knock. I noticed on your logs at 18psi your mafs numbers are kinda all over the place which may indicate maf overrun. They look more consistant at 15psi.
What exactly was the issue with the 2g maf? Install trouble? Meaning you never actually tuned with it?
I am still running the 1g MAF for now. It is not hacked....the can is, but not the actual MAF senser. I want to install the 2g but I cannot figure out how to install it and have room to put on a filter and connect the BOV to it too. The vfaq did not have any info on that either
You can make it fit with a small enough filter, I'm using a 2g intake pipe too. It wasn't easy that's for sure, but it fit. As for the wiring vfaq is pretty straight forward on that, no offense but if you're having problems with that how are you going to be able to burn and socket your own chips?
Just look at the vfaq again, write out a list like, "green to red, orange to blue" and so on, neither mas has the same color wire twice, it's pretty easy.
I have the plug already tapped in to the stock harness...the wiring is not the problem. It is the intake routing. Since this is my DD, I cannot cut up anything or modify the stock parts to where I cannot revert back if it does not work. I have installed the 2g MAF before and had it almost working except for the BOV hose.
It does not have to be socketed since I can do this myself.
