Well talked to the woman about getting some juice and she said I would kill myself and doesnt want me to do it. Talked her into getting link though. I think I might as well do it. Will take me a little to convince her when I can buy it but I guess that will be my next route.
Good choice. Wife does know best sometimes.. How come when we tell you to get link instead you ignore it, but when the wife says no nitrous now you want link? There are so many features on link that help the 1/4 mile time, the biggest being NLTS and studderbox. I still think you will make more power with link than what you think. You can control the timing at wot and spool up to help spool the 16g even faster. You can't do that with an afc. You can also change the a/f ratio on spool up to get it to spool faster. Also something the afc can't do very easily. Plus now you can post on the link forums, and the knowledge base is much wider on there. If you do decide you want nitrous link can control it, or can also control water meth injection. Get the link, get a wideband and a map sensor and you will be making more power i promise.
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There are so many features on link that help the 1/4 mile time, the biggest being NLTS and studderbox. I still think you will make more power with link than what you think. You can control the timing at wot and spool up to help spool the 16g even faster. You can't do that with an afc. You can also change the a/f ratio on spool up to get it to spool faster. Also something the afc can't do very easily. Plus now you can post on the link forums, and the knowledge base is much wider on there. If you do decide you want nitrous link can control it, or can also control water meth injection. Get the link, get a wideband and a map sensor and you will be making more power i promise.
Like I said!
Good choice in getting link. You wont regret...
If your still left wanting more in the future and cant go nitrous then maybe you should consider a turbo upgrade, like a cheap 50trim setup or something.
Good choice in getting link. You wont regret...
If your still left wanting more in the future and cant go nitrous then maybe you should consider a turbo upgrade, like a cheap 50trim setup or something.
I think if I did upgrade I would go with a cheap pte6152e, because my next motor will be a 2.3 stroker or a high rev 2.0L. I havnt made up my mind.
I think if I did upgrade I would go with a cheap pte6152e, because my next motor will be a 2.3 stroker or a high rev 2.0L. I havnt made up my mind.
Spray the car with a hundred shot and keep it at the same boost level. I know what your wife says, but speed is speed. I just hooked up a "small" 150 shot on a friends small 16g car. At 20 psi, it'll spike to about 30psi, but settles to 20 psi or so. I didn't really pay attention to the boost gauge. I just made sure the car had a good air/fuel, and no knock. This car feels pretty strong. I'll see if we can get some passes and a few street races. He has dsmlink tuned by me. It hit's at the top of 1st, and through out the rest of the pass. For what it's worth his cam angle is set to 2 degrees, but it's not missing as much timing as you'd think. His motor is a stock rebuild with arps and a hks 264 exhaust cam I had laying around. The car is a 1992 AWD, and more nitrous will be added with his new shortblock. I wish I would have used nitous eariler in my life. The bottle is alot of fun, no B.S. His car with no money into it, would of gave my 35r a run for it's money. With a bigger shot in the works, the sky in the limit. If you spary on your 16g, I don't think it will make anymore boost. Your turbo is already maxed out at the flow limit right?
P.s- this was with a single fogger NX KIT he picked up off ebay for 400 shipped. So far he's been thru 2 bottles.
Spray the car with a hundred shot and keep it at the same boost level. I know what your wife says, but speed is speed. I just hooked up a "small" 150 shot on a friends small 16g car. At 20 psi, it'll spike to about 30psi, but settles to 20 psi or so. I didn't really pay attention to the boost gauge. I just made sure the car had a good air/fuel, and no knock. This car feels pretty strong. I'll see if we can get some passes and a few street races. He has dsmlink tuned by me. It hit's at the top of 1st, and through out the rest of the pass. For what it's worth his cam angle is set to 2 degrees, but it's not missing as much timing as you'd think. His motor is a stock rebuild with arps and a hks 264 exhaust cam I had laying around. The car is a 1992 AWD, and more nitrous will be added with his new shortblock. I wish I would have used nitous eariler in my life. The bottle is alot of fun, no B.S. His car with no money into it, would of gave my 35r a run for it's money. With a bigger shot in the works, the sky in the limit. If you spary on your 16g, I don't think it will make anymore boost. Your turbo is already maxed out at the flow limit right?
P.s- this was with a single fogger NX KIT he picked up off ebay for 400 shipped. So far he's been thru 2 bottles.
What timing is he seeing when hitting the spray? I dont have link so I cant pull timing out to be safe. Also why would you even touch the CAS if you have dsmlink?
Spray the car with a hundred shot and keep it at the same boost level. I know what your wife says, but speed is speed. I just hooked up a "small" 150 shot on a friends small 16g car. At 20 psi, it'll spike to about 30psi, but settles to 20 psi or so. I didn't really pay attention to the boost gauge. I just made sure the car had a good air/fuel, and no knock. This car feels pretty strong. I'll see if we can get some passes and a few street races. He has dsmlink tuned by me. It hit's at the top of 1st, and through out the rest of the pass. For what it's worth his cam angle is set to 2 degrees, but it's not missing as much timing as you'd think. His motor is a stock rebuild with arps and a hks 264 exhaust cam I had laying around. The car is a 1992 AWD, and more nitrous will be added with his new shortblock. I wish I would have used nitous eariler in my life. The bottle is alot of fun, no B.S. His car with no money into it, would of gave my 35r a run for it's money. With a bigger shot in the works, the sky in the limit. If you spary on your 16g, I don't think it will make anymore boost. Your turbo is already maxed out at the flow limit right?
P.s- this was with a single fogger NX KIT he picked up off ebay for 400 shipped. So far he's been thru 2 bottles.
What waste gate is he running>?
So the boost increased and spiked 10psi because of the spray?
What timing is he seeing when hitting the spray? I dont have link so I cant pull timing out to be safe. Also why would you even touch the CAS if you have dsmlink?
I did that to make it easyer on the entire timing map for me, to do what I need to do. Then I just tuned the car's air/fuel level using an LM1, and gave it as much timing as I could using the dsmlink logging software looking for knock. I added timing back into it off the spray, and took a few more degrees out when the spray hits. I feel it's easyer to doing it this way. He's doing 16 degrees of timing on q16 5000 and up. The car likes timing, so I back it off left it 15 degrees of timing. I could have got away taking out 4 degrees total timing but left at 5 degrees. -3-2=-5 from 20= 15 for an 150 shot is pretty good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_Bullet
What waste gate is he running>?
So the boost increased and spiked 10psi because of the spray?
He's using the stock flapper on the small 16g, and a 2g non-ported exhaust housing that I gave him. He also has a stock intake cam, and it's on a manual boost controller. I just tuned around it, and as the revs increase. It only makes a certain amount of boost. So, his air/ fuel are at 11.0-11.3 through out the entire nitrous passes. I went through almost 1 bottle in just tunning alone. He wants to street race the car before he goes to the track. I'm sure it's an low 11 second car, the way it sits on 16inch street tires. Maybe a little lower on some bias ply tire. It's sad the car looks so stock.
Well had a bad experience today with the Talon. I was WOT in a high gear and my drive shaft decided to completely twist on me, which caused it to bend and pull from the transfer case. Then it dropped hit the ground and ripped the center bearing out from the chassis!!!
This was a custom 2 piece drive shaft made from a mighty max shaft I believe. It was balanced just fine also. I wonder if that wreck I got in a few months back may have caused this. Weird thing is it was while under WOT and not when shifting. Hopefully I can just replace the shaft and be ok.
I don't know why just about everyone on here thinks dsmlink is gods gift to dsm. If I were you I'd get the ostrich and use dsmap. Its cheaper then link and does more. The best part about it you don't need a maf anymore.
____________________________
Joe 99 GST 20g
92 TSI awd HX35
I don't know why just about everyone on here thinks dsmlink is gods gift to dsm. If I were you I'd get the ostrich and use dsmap. Its cheaper then link and does more. The best part about it you don't need a maf anymore.
Never said it was the best thing out there, but it's idot friendly. Brad Brooks told me about that setup, but the last I looked it was on back order. When it comes down to it, Motec isn't even worth shit. If you don't know how to use it to make power.
Never said it was the best thing out there, but it's idot friendly. Brad Brooks told me about that setup, but the last I looked it was on back order. When it comes down to it, Motec isn't even worth shit. If you don't know how to use it to make power.
I agree, there are other great forms of tuning control with other programs/setups that are indeed cheaper than dsmlink. I tune with eprom rom editing software myself and Id say I have BETTER timing and AFR control than dsmlink. My timing maps are a lot more specific and precise to the tune than the timing sliders dsmlink will give. My program allows adjustments in small incriments according to gm/rev, load, rpm, and shows direct timing values instead of just -5, or +3 etc. but dsmlink is more conveinent.
But also agreeing with rhamlinii, Dsmlink is super idiot friendly.
I was helping my friend Aaron tune his 1g talon awd with his dsmlink last night and it was the first time I had actually used dsmlink myself, and it took me 2 minutes to understand the entire program and state of tune of his car and probably tune it better than he could. If you have the money its a simple, but effective way to tune.
I agree, dsmlink is a little behind with the sliders. They need to set it up on a grid. So at every 10% throttle you have 10 different rpms points to tune. This helps a lot when tuning and thats why I like emanage. Emanage can work just as good or better than dsmlink, but you dont get the cool little features.
Some people don't want a tuning tool that is close to a stand alone. Also, with that it is harder to help tune a car over the internet which is why some people would rather have the current dsmlink then have something like that. So they can get free help for the entire tune.
V3 will have more timing and fuel sliders. But, I don't know if it will have load based tuning. I would like for it to since I am no novice to tuning. It would be awesome if you could choose between the sliders or load based tuning with the program. Then when you became more comfortable with tuning you could switch to the load based maps to get a better tune.
EDIT: I asked this question on the dsmlink boards:
"Sorry if I missed it with my search. Is there going to be the capability of load based tuning with V3?"
The y axis is "load" (effectively related to cylinder pressure). Until we figure out what units make sense on the y axis, it's just numeric for now.
And, yes, these axis values are all going to change soon. We're going to extend the RPM axis and the load as well. This is just the stock 2G table for now.
Thomas Dorris"
Just incase you can't see the picture in that link:
____________________________
Pat...AKA Project Pat
Last edited by 1992awdlaser; 08-24-2008 at 06:44 AM.
Ohh I am really waiting till V3 comes out now. So the numbers on the left side that go from 1-16 is the throttle position? Im used to emanage where it has throttle position one that side, but 1-16 dont make sense to me? Maybe because Im still a novice.
Ohh I am really waiting till V3 comes out now. So the numbers on the left side that go from 1-16 is the throttle position? Im used to emanage where it has throttle position one that side, but 1-16 dont make sense to me? Maybe because Im still a novice.
The numbers on the left are for the amount of pressure (boost). It should also have vacuum when it is finally released. Look at this stock 1G timing map for an example.
Having it setup for throttle position is dumb IMO. Your car will make different amounts of power at a certain throttle position based on your speed. Let's say 50% throttle. If you are at 2,000rpm in second gear and put it 50% throttle you are going to be making more power than if you are cruising at 50% throttle. More power, as you know, means more pressure in the cylinder which means more of a chance to knock. That means you would need a less aggressive tune for accelerating in second verse cruising. So what would you set it up for? Cruising at 50% throttle or accelerating at 50% throttle? Either way the other one won't be right. Get what I'm saying?
____________________________
Pat...AKA Project Pat
Just incase you can't see the picture in that link:
Thats pretty much what my timing table looks like with my Evilscribe tuning program.
That is how Ive been tuning the whole time...
Theres a few tricks I picked up to tuning it like that, and it works pretty well, timing is right on spot everytime I log.
Its nice to have such timing control, My fuel graph is the same but the gm maft sometimes has the afr all over the place regardless....
Some people don't want a tuning tool that is close to a stand alone. Also, with that it is harder to help tune a car over the internet which is why some people would rather have the current dsmlink then have something like that. So they can get free help for the entire tune.
V3 will have more timing and fuel sliders. But, I don't know if it will have load based tuning. I would like for it to since I am no novice to tuning. It would be awesome if you could choose between the sliders or load based tuning with the program. Then when you became more comfortable with tuning you could switch to the load based maps to get a better tune.
EDIT: I asked this question on the dsmlink boards:
"Sorry if I missed it with my search. Is there going to be the capability of load based tuning with V3?"
The y axis is "load" (effectively related to cylinder pressure). Until we figure out what units make sense on the y axis, it's just numeric for now.
And, yes, these axis values are all going to change soon. We're going to extend the RPM axis and the load as well. This is just the stock 2G table for now.
Thomas Dorris"
Just incase you can't see the picture in that link:
Those 16 rows, are Load rows, based off of g/rev calc.
Adjusting your hz signal, I believe, will actually throw the g/rev calc off a bit (correct me if I'm wrong).
Those 16 rows, are Load rows, based off of g/rev calc.
Adjusting your hz signal, I believe, will actually throw the g/rev calc off a bit (correct me if I'm wrong).
So v3 link, looks like v2 dsmap, funny . . .
It also looks like a lot of other tuning programs, not just dsmap. Anyways looks like v3 is going to be an awesome product.
Jason did you ever decied if your going nitrous or not after you update your tuning needs?
I am feeling like I am about to jump on the nitrous bandwagon also. Im going to make my own thread in the nitrous tech to not clutter or thread jack yours. You guys should check it out if you have time.
____________________________
((Jay))
E316G - 6bolt/4bolt
2800lbs w/ driver
Last edited by Black_Bullet; 09-08-2008 at 07:47 PM.
