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Old 04-08-2008, 10:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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1G-specific 3rd gear pull knocking need help!

What do you guys think about this pull?? Im tired of trying to tune this dam thing lol


TIM O2 volts TPS MAF RPM KNOCK INJDUTY

39° 0.76V 20.0% 182.4Hz 3406 0 7
39° 0.04V 22.0% 182.4Hz 3375 0 9
38° 0.80V 20.0% 182.4Hz 3438 0 7
39° 0.76V 55.7% 364.8Hz 3469 0 23
33° 0.90V 97.3% 465.5Hz 3531 0 28
29° 0.90V 97.3% 534.7Hz 3594 0 25
27° 0.90V 87.1% 616.4Hz 3688 0 36
28° 0.94V 97.6% 723.4Hz 3813 0 42
26° 0.90V 87.1% 855.4Hz 3938 0 54
23° 0.96V 97.3% 1025.3Hz 4063 0 61
22° 0.94V 87.1% 1056.7Hz 4156 0 71
21° 0.96V 86.7% 1050.4Hz 4313 0 75
24° 0.92V 97.3% 1063.0Hz 4438 0 66
20° 0.96V 86.7% 1075.6Hz 4469 4 68
22° 0.96V 97.3% 1132.2Hz 4625 8 61
17° 0.92V 95.3% 1125.9Hz 4656 8 81
17° 0.92V 90.6% 1201.4Hz 4844 7 76
22° 0.92V 95.3% 1226.6Hz 4844 7 87
15° 0.92V 94.5% 1283.2Hz 4969 9 91
18° 0.92V 95.3% 1320.9Hz 5094 9 80
17° 0.96V 87.1% 1352.4Hz 5219 8 85
19° 0.90V 93.3% 1390.1Hz 5250 8 91
22° 0.94V 97.3% 1396.4Hz 5344 8 78
17° 0.94V 93.3% 1453.0Hz 5438 11 90
17° 0.96V 93.3% 1503.3Hz 5500 11 91
21° 0.90V 93.3% 1541.1Hz 5531 15 101
21° 0.94V 87.1% 1566.2Hz 5656 18 99
16° 0.94V 87.1% 1604.0Hz 5781 18 120
21° 0.96V 90.6% 1604.0Hz 5781 17 101
18° 0.86V 97.3% 1604.0Hz 5938 17 120
22° 0.86V 87.1% 1604.0Hz 5969 17 102
21° 0.96V 97.3% 1604.0Hz 6094 16 105
21° 0.96V 97.6% 1604.0Hz 6188 16 108
17° 0.94V 93.3% 1604.0Hz 6281 15 127
16° 0.90V 97.6% 1604.0Hz 6281 15 127
16° 0.86V 93.3% 1604.0Hz 6375 14 106
19° 0.76V 7.8% 471.8Hz 5875 4 8
45° 0.12V 97.3% 981.2Hz 5656 0 57
28° 0.94V 97.3% 975.0Hz 4938 0 67
26° 0.90V 69.0% 1019.0Hz 4875 0 25
34° 0.76V 7.8% 94.4Hz 4938 0 6
45° 0.94V 7.5% 56.6Hz 4781 0 6
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It looks like you're trying to be a little aggressive with timing early on in the RPM band bringing on more heat and eventually more detonation. THat is, if the first 20 lines of the log are assumed to have gone WOT before 4k RPM's
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:03 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I got on wot around 3500 rpm witch is before the 20 lines your talking about. Im sorry but what do you mean im trying to be a little agressive with my timing? Sorry new to this.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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According to your profile, your just tuning with the GM-MAF?

You need to figure out why your TPS is jumping around all over the place. Also, unless your running really freakin' high boost, there is no way your IDC should be at 120% when you have 680cc injectors. Have you checked for boost leaks?


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Old 04-09-2008, 07:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I am just tuning with the maft.

For some reason on my datalogger it always shows my tps bounceing around even with a brand new one?? My water temp even bounces from like say 206 to 200 or so. Im also still haveing problems with my fuel trims never moving from 100%

I have checked for boost leaks and i only have 1 tiny one not enought to cause me to have such high inj dutys! I think im just running extremly rich what do you think??
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd check your throttle cable. It's kinda hard to diagnose with the TPS all over the board. I'd fix that first and then try pulling another log.


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Old 04-09-2008, 10:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have checked the cable. I opened the throttle body all the way by hand and looked at the data logger and get the same resaults how it bounces around even with a new tps.
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Old 04-09-2008, 11:45 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, assuming that you ARE at WOT, the timing is really aggressive. Normally you should see your timing dip into the single digits at full boost and then slowly/steadily start climbing.

You mentioned that you hit WOT around 3500 RPM. Try logging another pull from about 2300 RPM to Redline and FLOOR IT starting at 2300 RPM. I know the first few times I logged I wasn't hitting 99% on my TPS because my foot wasn't ALL THE WAY DOWN on the gas pedal.

From what you've already posted, I highly doubt this is the case, especially since it's "bouncing" all over the place.


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Old 04-09-2008, 12:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Do you think its possible my ecu is bad?? Because i cant get my fuel trims to change, my tps always bounces , my injector duty at idle bounces from 1.5% to 0.7% for some reason. The only thing i could think would be causing this is a bad ecu.

Ill double check to make sure i have my timing set to 5 advance and see what happens.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm not sure on the ECU being bad, but it does seem ot be doing strange things. What i meant about aggressive timing it what 95carbon posted. The numbers should be a lot lower (9-14) when you first go WOT and will slowly climb with RPM as long as there's no knock. Yours is starting at 21 or so and causing the knock to come on like it is. Are your tricking the ECU to thinking it's getting a lot less air to get your fuel trims and WOT AFR's right? If so that's what's making the timing so high. When the ECU thinks it's getting a smaller amount of air coming in, it starts with a more aggressive timing curve, the lower the ECU thinks the air is, the more timing you get. And this isn't always a good thing, High timing like that can lead to motor killing detonation under boost on pump gas especially
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Theres no way that i would be tricking the ECU and to be honist right now i dont even have a filter on my inlet of the turbo (Very Dangers i know)! So what do you guys recomment me doing with this problem?
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It seems like everything on my datalogger bounces around.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If you have the OEM 450's still, try dropping those in and then logging another run with your MAFT zero'd out. Let's get a good baseline first.

TurboGlenn... is it possible that he's running so aggresively to compensate for the 680's he got in there now? Can a MAFT even tune for 680's?? I know that the bigger injectors you use, the MORE you have to trick the ECU. How aggressive does timing usually get with 650's and an AFC?


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Last edited by 95CarbonEclipse : 04-09-2008 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I dont have the stock 450's anymore but i could get some to try it out.
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95CarbonEclipse View Post
If you have the OEM 450's still, try dropping those in and then logging another run with your MAFT zero'd out. Let's get a good baseline first.

TurboGlenn... is it possible that he's running so aggresively to compensate for the 680's he got in there now? Can a MAFT even tune for 680's?? I know that the bigger injectors you use, the MORE you have to trick the ECU. How aggressive does timing usually get with 650's and an AFC?
First off, when doing your logs you dont have to log volts, o2 volts, or MAFs.
So next log just do timing, rpm, IDC, and knock. Thats all you need to log while tuning
most of the time.

The MAFT will do just like a SAFC in tricking the ecu about the airflow it has to inject less fuel for bigger injector compensation....

Problem is this puts you on a different gm/rev load row with your timing
and this is why you have really high timing advance across the entire power band.
Obviously the 680s or whatever injectors you have are too big to be compensated properly.
Ive actually heard 650s are the limits in keeping the timing reasonable with your current tuning limitation.
The timing on that log looked more like race gas type advance used by someone who can actually control the heat.

How much boost was this on.
With that kind of timing id imagen youd have knock with anything over 15-16 psi
unless you counter it with some meth injection, higher octane, E85 etc.

My first suggestion is turn the boost down a good bit. Hopefully your not creeping on that 16g?
Then do as the other guy said and put your stock injectors back in to get a baseline.
Doing so will lower your timing. As long as you dont lean out too much your car should be safer like that. Your knock is almost at the point were you have to worry about engine longevity.

I dont understand why your over 100 % IDC. One point of the pull you reached 120% which is not good at all.

This is why tuning with safc or a Maft is crap.
You wont get a perfect knock free high boost tune till you switch to DSMLINK or a chipped Eprom Ecu with a keydiver chip or something that gives you full timing control.


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Old 04-12-2008, 02:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Turboglenn i could really use some help on this situation. What do you recomment me doing?

After driving it around for a little bit i also noticed if i was to just smash the throttle to the floor it kinda bugs alittle but if i just get on it slowly and easy to a wot it pull just fine and hard!!

I would really nice to get my car running good.
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Old 04-12-2008, 02:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95CarbonEclipse View Post
If you have the OEM 450's still, try dropping those in and then logging another run with your MAFT zero'd out. Let's get a good baseline first.

TurboGlenn... is it possible that he's running so aggresively to compensate for the 680's he got in there now? Can a MAFT even tune for 680's?? I know that the bigger injectors you use, the MORE you have to trick the ECU. How aggressive does timing usually get with 650's and an AFC?

That's my first guess. THe MAF-T is probably hiding too much airflow from the ECU and the ECU is giving a LOT of timing causing the knock. Have you tried dialing back to stock injectors and running it?

The "bugging out" is probably a lean condition if i had to guess, does it kinda gasp, then take off hard a few seconds later?

Also, do you have a wideband you can use to make sure that you are not dangerously lean?

If i don't check in here in this thread enough, just PM and tell me to look at this... I'll try and help as much as i can ( always do)
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Old 04-12-2008, 03:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanxs man for the help i really do appreciate the help. I have a set of 460 from a rx7 that should work but i just need to get some injector seals for them so i cant try that right now.

"does it kinda gasp, then take off hard a few seconds later?" This is exactly what its doing!

I dont have a wideband yet.
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:06 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post
Turboglenn i could really use some help on this situation. What do you recomment me doing?

After driving it around for a little bit i also noticed if i was to just smash the throttle to the floor it kinda bugs alittle but if i just get on it slowly and easy to a wot it pull just fine and hard!!

I would really nice to get my car running good.

I guess you didnt find my post worth anything because you gave no sign of ackwoledgement and i gave you a full summary of whats likely going on with your tune and what i (and the other guys who posted before me ) thought you should do...

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt98eclipse View Post

"does it kinda gasp, then take off hard a few seconds later?" This is exactly what its doing!

I dont have a wideband yet.
Im not going to comment on using Rx7 injectors but
as far as the gasping, its probably just going too lean and running up into too much knock and pulling timing in different times in different amounts based on different engine loads.
Thats why when you log you start at 2500-3000 rpm and go full throttle from there.

You didnt respond to how much boost this was on.

Once again, what i think would be the best thing for you to do right now is

***Lower your boost down a good amount till you see no more knock.

***Put your stock injectors back in to get your timing back normal

Then try tuning it with the stock injectors and see how much boost you can get back
( Id suspect 16psi would put you right under the 100% IDC zone.)

But this way you wont be knocking any more and youll have reasonable timing advance.
Your knock may not have harmed anything yet because ive seen worse, but your testing your motor
every time you do a pull.

Then, at this point If you ever wanted to push your setup with more boost
you'd have to just save up for DSMLINK, or a Eprom chipped ecu combo so you can then later, reinstall your 680s
and have a good tune that will allow for the high boost you'd likely want to run...

If you dont have a wideband that should be on the list also.
Playing with your fuel could help some, but you dont want to tune to rich because that could also lead to rich knock.

So thats pretty much what you'll have to do if the aggressive timing advance from the 680 is truely your issue.

Theres nothing much else to do but what i mentioned, short of just running race gas all the time or getting meth which i mentioned that already also...


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