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Old 04-16-2008, 06:49 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Isnt it better to get a better MAF then to use the fake MAF function? I assume a 3.5'' GM MAF is better than a 3'' right?
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:19 PM   #62 (permalink)
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how much hp can a 3'' GM MAF and MAFT hold?
You need to take thing one step at a time, and not worry so much about the "limits." With that said...

3" GMAF max is 4500Hz or right around 550WHP worth of airflow. After this, it just becomes unpredictable and choppy signal.
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Old 04-16-2008, 09:31 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Isnt it better to get a better MAF then to use the fake MAF function? I assume a 3.5'' GM MAF is better than a 3'' right?
"Better" for what? You MUST use the MAF during idle and part throttle conditions. You also use it at full throttle unless you choose to ignore it.

99% of all DSMlink users use the MAF at full boost conditions

Only around 1% of the DSMlink owners actually use the Fake MAF + Use MAP function to it's potential.

Also the 3.5" isn't "Better" than the 3" GMAF. My 3" GMAF reads higher than one of my tuning customers 3.5" GMAF did. He dynoed at 730+WHP and his GMAF flatlined at 4200Hz, while mine still reads to 4500Hz.

3" GMAF = 4500Hz
3.5" GMAF = 4200Hz
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Old 04-17-2008, 06:52 PM   #64 (permalink)
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I was thinking bigger is better, but like you posted its not as with GM MAFs.
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:01 PM   #65 (permalink)
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ok, i just read the entire thread, great info here is all i can say, however, i have a 1g MAF, and it has been hacked. i am going to purchase the link here shortly, probably after the may raffle if i need to buy one lol. how would a hacked MAF effect dsmlink's performance? i will be running a 14b and getting the 1150 FIc injectors for future upgrades. just curious as to what, if any difference a hacked sensor would do, good or bad. i could always get a 2g MAF out of my junk yard (have a talon back there).

thanks for the great read!
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:14 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I would get the 2g MAS, make the plug and play pigtail (1hr max) and use it unhacked. You really don't need to hack a MAF when using DSMLink, and I wouldn't use a hacked 1G MAF because there is no reason to. There is so much control over the ECU that all of this hacking and faking airflow crap isn't needed. Just wire in the 2g MAS and get stable airflow counts up to about 400-450hp. (2800 hz) People even run 10s on it.
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Old 04-17-2008, 09:27 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I was reading the dsmlink manual and it says that if I dont know what injector pulse is then the dsmlink is not for me. I was wondering since I read that... so my guess is that injector pulse is the rate that the injectors inject fuel. am I right?
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:34 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Yes you are right. Injector Pulsewidth is the amount of time the injectors are open and spraying fuel in microseconds (I believe).

Well, good for you that you are reading the manual. I read it front to back twice, and I still have a lot to learn. Just search thru the DSMLink forums using keywords for topics that you don't understand fully. It will help a lot.

The best teacher is practice. Set your idle and cruise fuel trims using the instruction manual. Give yourself a while to learn. I logged every minute I was driving for quite a few weeks so I could see what the car was doing. Make small changes when you do WOT tuning and try not to change a whole bunch at once or it will be hard to know how the car responded to each individual change.

If you have patience and can set aside a weekend to get the car set up right it will pay off greatly in the long run. If you just fly by the seat of your pants and put the pedal to the floor to "see what this thing can do" you will be doing yourself a great disservice. I have spent about 2000 hours on dsmtuners and dmslink forums in the past 1 1/2 yrs just researching keywords. I can't tell you the number of problems I side-stepped by already knowing the common issues people dealt with before my car was even on the road.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:53 AM   #69 (permalink)
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You can learn DSMlink fairly easily, don't be intimidated by any means (except maybe in inital setup/install) But even then, take your time, read carefully and it will go just fine.
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Old 04-18-2008, 08:34 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Im glad to say that I am in no hurry to start changing stuff until I learn, especially since I am going to have a rebuilt engine. Just wondering... how can the fuel injector pulse reading be used for tuning? I thought about this too, If I do put a big turbo on and decide to push lots of boost, would I need to tune at idle first? Would I need to tune at idle first no matter what my setup?
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Old 04-19-2008, 03:04 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I didn't know you were going to be breaking in a motor. I would personally not run a GM MAS while breaking in a motor if you haven't calibrated one before. I would put the 2G MAS on there temporarily until I got the motor broke in. You can put the GM MAS in its place if you are running it in blow-thru so you don't have to change any of the IC piping. Just leave it unplugged and stick a 2G MAS on the turbo and use that for a couple hundred miles.

You really need to calibrate that GM MAS for it to meter correctly and I wouldn't be doing 3rd gear WOT pulls on a brand new motor trying to calibrate that GM MAS. Depending on how much it needs calibrated you might be dumping a lot of extra fuel in there. That isn't going to be good for your rings as they are trying to seat. The first 20 minutes of idling followed by the first 20 miles are CRITICAL to the health of the motor. And that is precisely the time that you GM MAS would be uncalibrated. All this is true especially if you are running DSMLink for the first time and don't have a previous tune to run from.

This is the exact situation I was in 2 months ago. Trying to break-in my new motor, using DSMLink with no prior tunes, and I had a GM MAS. I put on a 2G MAS, pulled 3% global & ~ 10% fuel from 3000 rpm up. I also pulled timing down to 16* from 4000 up and watched my wideband like a hawk. I was running about 11.5:1 AFR, which was perfect for the break-in. I used the Motoman method btw.

I had fantastic results. The car only smoked for a few minutes on first-start-up and never really smoked much during the first few miles. I ran 10-12 psi, did my breakin runs, drove 20 miles total and changed my oil. After 100 miles I had 190 compression. I am at 1200 miles and will check compression again today.

IMHO, getting that motor broke in correctly is FAR more important that anything else right now. Well at least that was my decision with all things considered.
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Old 04-19-2008, 10:52 AM   #72 (permalink)
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I'm going to leave my stock 1g mas on the turbo for the break in. The intercooler piping I have does not have a place for a GM MAF so I will make one in the future. i have yellow top injectors and I read they are 540s on here and I also read they are 510s. How can you tell which they are? What is the Motoman method?
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Old 04-19-2008, 10:54 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Motoman method:
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power


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Old 04-19-2008, 12:16 PM   #74 (permalink)
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wow I did not know that. I will remember to run mine hard after it gets warmed up. Too bad have an ACT 2600 to break in, I may throw my stock clutch back in for the motoman method
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Old 04-19-2008, 02:54 PM   #75 (permalink)
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wow I did not know that. I will remember to run mine hard after it gets warmed up. Too bad have an ACT 2600 to break in, I may throw my stock clutch back in for the motoman method
Run it hard only to a certain extent.
It will be a little more complicated since you are trying to break a clutch in at the same time.

IMO Just do a lot of city driving and a lot of downshifting, allow it to build as much boost as possible without revving past 4500k for the first couple hundred miles. The boost will help it to seat the rings faster so dont be scared of building boost.

On my previous DSM i did the Motoman method and it works pretty good.


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Old 04-19-2008, 08:11 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Make sure to do A LOT of engine braking. Take it up to a certain rpm and let off the gas and let the car slow itself. Watch your how many inhg you get on your boost gauge when you do that. IIRC, I hit like 26" or something. It is a "loaded vacuum" that literally sucks the metal flakes off the cyl walls and it goes right out your exhaust. Less gets in your oil that way.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:47 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Ill remember that, thanks for the info. I am curious about what kind of wideband I should get. I have looked into the innovate and AEM uego. Will it matter which brand I get or are they all basically the same and priced by popularity?

Last edited by pj91gsx : 04-21-2008 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 04-21-2008, 05:37 PM   #78 (permalink)
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I am curious about what kind of wideband I should get. I have looked into the innovate and AEM uego. Will it matter which brand I get or are they all basically the same and priced by popularity?
What kind of wideband would you recommend?
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Old 04-21-2008, 06:07 PM   #79 (permalink)
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A good Wideband 02 kit?
Wideband kit
looking into getting a wideband any suggestions

Plenty more threads like that on the forums. I recommend the Innovate LC-1.


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Old 04-21-2008, 06:46 PM   #80 (permalink)
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EDIT: is it possible to wire up just a wideband o2 sensor to the ecu to log on the dsmlink, or do I need something else with it? This is instead of getting one with a gauge and everything. how much would it cost just for a wideband o2 that wires up to the dsmlink compared with a wideband with a gauge that can wire up to the ecu?
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:43 PM   #81 (permalink)
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