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92TurboGS

20+ Year Contributor
44
0
Sep 6, 2002
I just put a ported 16g on my Auto car. I have just put 450s on it to , 390s were stock,its still on the stock pump, i have a 255 to put in it soon. Now what boost can i safely run with this setup on a stock sidemount and stock exhaust with a test pipe on 93oct? It feels good around 12-15lbs, but anything over that like 18-20 it sounds like a #@%#@%#@%#@% load of air coming out but the car almost seems to slow down, could it be to lean, or to small exhaust or just the sidemount wont flow the cfm? Thanks for any input.
 
Check for boost leak. You can make one intake leak tester for less than $10 with a plastic end cap and a valve stem. Hook up to an air compressor or air pump and you can start testing for leaks. You will be surprise how many leaks you find along the way.

Also, change your plugs (BPR6ES) and gapped them to .028" if you run above 17psi.
 
I currently have the 7es 's in it now gapped to .028. I need to make a leak tester, that will help. The car doesnt spool up nearly as quick as the 13g did. I think i need a ball and spring type boost controller or electronic one to keep the wastegate shut till it needs to be. Thanks so far
 
A 16G is much bigger than a 13g so I wouldnt be surprise at all. Fix the leaks and the ball/spring MBC will help you with the spool a little. Also usually if it spool up quickly but the car does not seems to be pulling means the timing got retarded too much by the ECU seeing knocks.
 
Dont run more than 15psi without an intake or exhaust, your choking your poor motor!!! I wouldnt ever personally run a bigger turbo without a fuel pump at leist. You should put in your walbro, do a rewire and then maybe run like 15psi. Without an intake and especially exhaust you wont see any more power from that than your 13g
 
I have a vortech fmu, im thinking of putting it on, there for i can run a smaller injector so it drives fine and will also have more fuel pressure under boost, i dont want to run big injectors and get a s-afc right now, what u think of using a fmu.
 
Let me get this straight, is this a N/T car with turbo? If this is a turbo car to begin with, you dont want to use a FMU because they are raising rate FPR instead of static rate (1:1). FMU are for N/T with turbo kit and because they ECU are not programmed for a turbo, they need a raising rate FPR to compensate for fuel. Our turbo car use 1:1 boost vs fuel pressure.
 
This is a factory turbo car, im thinking ui can use the fmu with a smaller injector so i dont have to use a fmu, i can tune the fmu from 3:1 to 12:1 with different discs. the fmu would start to add more pressure at bigger boost where i would need it. I tried it today but the fmu i had had a problem, ill see what happens when i get another fmu to try.I can also tune the fmu with a bleeder screw, i used one on my mustang before and it worked well with a smaller injector, ill see, but now the car without the fmu on it loosed fuel pressure at around 10lbs and drops back to 40 or so punds,maybe my pump is on its way out.
 
I have did some calculations awhile back with a 2:1 FPR, the AFC can still lean it out enough up til about 15psi. Anything above it is out of the AFC range. It's been awhile since I've done the calculation so I maybe off a little but the point is it's a b!tch when it comes to tuning and it's not worth the effort. I wouldnt imagine what a 3:1 regulator would do.

You can easily get a static rate 1:1 AFPR for around $130 and you can bump the base fuel pressure up all you want. The 1:1 rate makes tuning easier and less chance on tuning error. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
 
i will see what happens, the fmu im getting is cheap and easy to put on, if it doesnt work i guess im gonna wait for a afc. Thanks for your info.
 
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