My 4gcs will be installed within the next month. Ill let you know how it goes...
Just one question to you 4gcs guys. There are two holes in my block that need to be plugged. There is one in the front of the block (easy to block) and there is one in the back of the block that goes into the balance shaft bearing journals. I dont understand why there is a hole here. It is very shallow and Im trying to figure out how to plug it without making it so that I cant fit the balance shaft bearing in. How did you guys solve this problem. I will be using the BS bearing from the BS elimination kit, so it will help seal the hole as well...
Also, has anyone mounted their knock sensor in the threaded hole for the intake manifold bracket? Im refering to the bracket that bolts to the bolt and the bottom of the intake manifold. The threads are the same size and pitch and the hole is right between cylinder 2 and 3. Its close to the stock location for a 6 bolt 4g63. Im not going to be using the IM bracket anyways so this seems to make the most sense...
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My 4gcs will be installed within the next month. Ill let you know how it goes...
Just one question to you 4gcs guys. There are two holes in my block that need to be plugged. There is one in the front of the block (easy to block) and there is one in the back of the block that goes into the balance shaft bearing journals. I dont understand why there is a hole here. It is very shallow and Im trying to figure out how to plug it without making it so that I cant fit the balance shaft bearing in. How did you guys solve this problem. I will be using the BS bearing from the BS elimination kit, so it will help seal the hole as well...
if you're talking about the hole that supplies oil to the balance shaft, just turn the bearing so it blocks the hole. that should be sufficient. that's what you're supposed to do anyway, isn't it? if there is another hole, then i'm not sure what you're talking about. i can look at my block when i get home tonight and see if i can figure out what you're talking about.
if you're talking about the hole that supplies oil to the balance shaft, just turn the bearing so it blocks the hole. that should be sufficient. that's what you're supposed to do anyway, isn't it? if there is another hole, then i'm not sure what you're talking about. i can look at my block when i get home tonight and see if i can figure out what you're talking about.
"Here is a closeup of the front balance shaft bearing. The water pump would be in the upper right of the pic if it were installed. Note the screw in plug on the left (circled) - that is to allow the factory to drill the oilfeed hole from the bearing journal into the oil galley."
The "screw in plug" is missing from my block and the hole is very shallow. I am unsure what to plug it with that wont hit the block off bearing. Any suggestions? Im thinking a very small bolt with RTV or threadlock... or I could see if the machine shop could weld it shut...
Anyone tried the knock sensor location that Im looking at?
The "screw in plug" is missing from my block and the hole is very shallow. I am unsure what to plug it with that wont hit the block off bearing. Any suggestions? Im thinking a very small bolt with RTV or threadlock... or I could see if the machine shop could weld it shut...
that sucks. you can block that however you want. doesn't make a difference, as long as it won't back out later down the road. think about whether or not you're ever going to want to remove it for some reason or another later and make your decision.
sorry i can't help with your other question as i've not gotten that far. i am curious to know if it will work though...
that sucks. you can block that however you want. doesn't make a difference, as long as it won't back out later down the road. think about whether or not you're ever going to want to remove it for some reason or another later and make your decision.
sorry i can't help with your other question as i've not gotten that far. i am curious to know if it will work though...
If nobody responds about the knock sensor location I think Im just going to use the manifold bracket hole. I dont know what hole near cylinder #1 that everyone is talking about. Its supposed to be by an A/C bracket near the front case?
If nobody responds about the knock sensor location I think Im just going to use the manifold bracket hole. I dont know what hole near cylinder #1 that everyone is talking about. Its supposed to be by an A/C bracket near the front case?
thats where im putting it. i know of several people that put it htere. ive only heard one bad story from doing this.
mines still together.A good 8000 miles into it now.Love the power torque.Jm fabrications intake manifold is going on next week,to help with the heavy breathing of the turbo,cams,ported head.Soon after i got a nice tubular manifold going on,and might be switching up turbos.....but we shall see on that one.
car rips,got some videos of illegal racing with it,but i wont post em.Pump gas it rips enough to take out 98% of what pulls up next to you.
My 2.4 is done at machine shop and coming home in a few days for final assembly.Unfortunately have a few questions still after reading this whole thread.
I have a G4CS 90 hyunda sonata 2.4 block.
Questions I have 91 timing wheel. Thought read someone say to use 93 94 or to use the 93 to 94 marks? and thought someone else said no problem with 91 timing thing.
Which is right? I realize throw away the G4CS stuff.
Also someone is trying to tell me I have to clearance the oil pan for the 2.4 due ot the crank hitting it..yes or no..I realize to use a 2.0 6 bolt oil pan and have one. The 2.4 pan has no turbo return holes.
So does the oil pan need clearancing or is that only in the 2.3 engines.?
If you have a 2.0 6 bolt oilpan, that will work with no "clearancing". Just bolt it on and you will be fine. I transferred mine over from my original 91 6 bolt 2.0 engine to the G4CS with no problems.
As far as the timing marks go, I just bought some AEM adjustable cam gears, to replace the 91 timing gears. As far as I know, the marks on the 91 cam gears will not line up correctly with the G4CS setup.
Umm have a 2.0 6 bolt oil pan like you do.Not sure why guys are saying with 1g oil pan you have to clearance mabye they had 7 bolt oil pans?
Also I have the 2.4 timing gears.Talking the timing wheel on the crank! Did you use a 91 timing wheel on the crank and just set it to the 91 marks or did you use a different year of timing wheel?
Make your own timing mark on the crank pulley (not the sprocket for the timing belt). You will need to do this to set up the ignition timing. Just put an extension down the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the motor until it is at TDC and make the mark accordingly. I find this to be the easiest way to set up timing when installing the belt as well. I didnt even look at the marks on the crankshaft sprocket.
The 6 bolt oil pan works just fine. The 7 bolt oil pan will not work.
Guys couple more questions..there is no oil separator in my 2.4 main seal housing.Do I need to use my housing off the 2.0 or just use the 2.4 housing?
Also I bought brand new mits front cover and oil pump gears.Do I have to put vaseline in there.I am worried about getting something in my new off the head FP3065 oil feeline filter.
Can I not worry about putting extra stuff on the new oil pump gears.I will turn over engine without plus or injectors firing of course first.
Guys couple more questions..there is no oil separator in my 2.4 main seal housing.Do I need to use my housing off the 2.0 or just use the 2.4 housing?
Also I bought brand new mits front cover and oil pump gears.Do I have to put vaseline in there.I am worried about getting something in my new off the head FP3065 oil feeline filter.
Can I not worry about putting extra stuff on the new oil pump gears.I will turn over engine without plus or injectors firing of course first.
Yes use the oil separator just like you would with any 6 or 7 bolt build. I used the then entire 6 bolt rear main seal housing/separator.
I used assembly lube on the oil pump gears. You dont need to "pack" the gears like everyone says, you just need to get a of film lubrication to help make a seal for the pump. You dont want dry gears.
1. Are the pistons from a G4CS the same as the 4g64?
2. If I go 20 over what size would that translate to if I ordered a cometic hg (which if I remember correctly only have 4g63 not 4g64)
3. Does anyone have a pic of their "re-marking" the cam gears. I have some new fidenzas sitting around the garage and would like to use them
Please search... yes the pistons are the same and you are going to want an 87mm or 88mm HG. I went with a "custom" 88mm HG because of the excessive chamfer on the cylinders. Just call cometic, they will make custom sized gaskets.
I had talked to Jackson Auto Machine yesterday about machining my g4cs block, they recommended I keep the b-shafts and machine the block for oil squirters. Is it a bad idea to remove the balance shafts? Has anyone had any problems w/o them on thier g4cs? I have always removed them when I do a t-belt on a 4g63 and really don't want them in the g4cs if I don't need them.
I took them out of my 2.4 build.I used a fluidampr balancer.Factory balancers are garbage had a few come apart in my various dsms at random mileage.
I didn't balance engine which maybe I should have done. I heard that aftermarket parts are pretty close in balance already and also heard you had to balance the clutch and flywheel and didn't even have them when I did the engine and besides what if I change my clutch and flywheel. And most guys don't balance their engine after they take out the balance shafts in a 2.0.
I don't get much vibration at idle..my mirrors are clear. I don't seem to get much thru the range but may get a bit of something at 3500 or so but it seems to smooth out at higher rpm.I am not sure if that 3500 resonance is from 3 inch exhaust and no cat though or maybe from something else entirely. vibration from 3000 up is not that extreme either mirrors are still clear nothing in the car is shaking to pieces.
I have poly energy supension rollstop inserts front and back and that may also be some of the resonance ,vibration.
So I think its maybe a good idea to balance the engine but I don't agree with jackson and many others don't either that you have to leave the balance shafts in the motor.
I have seen balance shaft bearings go bad and seen many pics of what a broken balance belt does to a engine if it messes up the timing belt.
Lots of companies like FFWD and think magnus build 2.4 with no balance shafts.Most don't put in oil squirters either. They are not supposed to be very necessary in forged piston motors for sure.And one more thing to clog /mess up.
Its too bad they dont make kevlar belts for the 2.4 engines just the 2.0 and 2.3 .It would be nice to have kevlar timing belt for extra piece of mind and then maybe would have used balance shafts in the 2.4 if could have at least used kevlar balance belt. But there would still be the bearing failure problem from the shafts.
I have about 2000 miles on my 2.4 since started it up. So far no problems really except that 3500 resonance /vibration thing.
I had talked to Jackson Auto Machine yesterday about machining my g4cs block, they recommended I keep the b-shafts and machine the block for oil squirters. Is it a bad idea to remove the balance shafts? Has anyone had any problems w/o them on thier g4cs? I have always removed them when I do a t-belt on a 4g63 and really don't want them in the g4cs if I don't need them.
Do you mind me asking what they quoted you for this? I'm going to have JAM do my 4gcs this winter since they are less than an hour away. And since mine is going to be more of a street motor I want to retain the squiters and balancer shafts.
They quoted me $730 to do the block machining, that included everything that is in their 4g63 stage two block prep (accept for installing b/s elim kit) as well as machining the block to accept the factory oil squirters.
I just lost my whole 2.4 bottom end. Under 2k at this point never saw over 20 psi on a 60-1 pulled the pan and it was full of copper colored bearings. Not good...
Pulling the rest of the motor tonight looks like the mains are shot. Not sure what happened yet.
Whole assembly was balanced at time of build, new mitsu oil pump, eagle rods, wiseco pistons. Will post pics when we get it out.
I have aquired a 3g 2.4L 4g64 complete engine
Does anyone have any info or can you direct me to the right person/website for putting a 1g dohc head on it?
I have ink transferred the deck surfaces to a paper and matched the oil galleys and water holes. All but a couple line up.
I am pretty sure this will work, but want to be 100% sure before I start spending money.
I have aquired a 3g 2.4L 4g64 complete engine
Does anyone have any info or can you direct me to the right person/website for putting a 1g dohc head on it?
I have ink transferred the deck surfaces to a paper and matched the oil galleys and water holes. All but a couple line up.
I am pretty sure this will work, but want to be 100% sure before I start spending money.
Thanks
May I help you?
There was a young man in autoshop who reported had no oil pressure. His teacher confirmed same, 2-3 tear downs later zero results. Somebody was not telling the truth. You have oil or not, while I doubt gaskets are your problem and if you have read my responses, start a new subject and send a heads up. If I think you are spoofing me, if I think you are from a TV show I will do my best to discredit.
I suggest START a new subject, I will help you but I have a short fuse for amatures who have made this 200 riplies long. No I do not give private consultation.
First of all, learn some tactfulness instead of immediately trying to degrade someone that
you know nothing of.
A simple yes or no about this engine would have been fine.
Amature?? HARDLY not.. I dont call 9 years as a Helicopter Mechanic an Amature.
Next time before you make the assumption about someone you dont even know, hold your tongue.
-----------------------
Now, anyone having experience about a 3rd generation mitsubishi eclipse engine (4g64)
send me a message and let me know what the outcome was.
I just lost my whole 2.4 bottom end. Under 2k at this point never saw over 20 psi on a 60-1 pulled the pan and it was full of copper colored bearings. Not good...
Pulling the rest of the motor tonight looks like the mains are shot. Not sure what happened yet.
Whole assembly was balanced at time of build, new mitsu oil pump, eagle rods, wiseco pistons. Will post pics when we get it out.
Your question is a little vague. Are you talking about the timing belt for a G4CS or the timing belt for a 4G63? If you are talking about which timing belt to use on an engine consisting of a G4CS block and everything else from a 4G63 (head, etc.) then the correct timing belt to use is already listed in this thread. It is the timing belt from a 94 Galant GS.
