Ok, I just ran into a problem with this setup. I took my G4CS engine that I have built up off the engine stand, to put my ACT Streetlite flywheel on it. I have an ACT 600155 flywheel. When I tried to put it on the engine, I discovered the end of my crankshaft has a raised center section, inside the bolt hole circle. That raised center section protrudes out from the end of the crankshaft about 1/8 inch or so, and prevents the flywheel from sitting flush against the end of the crank. All 6 bolt holes are held about 1/8 away from the crank. Has anyone else run into this problem? Do you need the Hyundai flywheel? Does that one have the recess machined into it for the raised section in the crank end? Or am I missing something here? Any help would be appreciated, as I am stuck until I get this resolved.
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Dan
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is the g4cs crank from an auto? If so, I believe there is a piece on the end of the crank that you have to remove. I forget what you call it. Others have had the same problem.
Thanks for the reply. I don't know for sure, but I would guess it is from an auto. I was looking through the shop manuals and I see that there is a spacer plate used with the auto flywheel, but I didn't see anything that looked like that raised section on the end of the crankshaft. I'll go out to the shop again, and see if that is a removeable piece. If not, I guess I have two options. Machine out a recess in my flywheel, or get a spacer made that will raise the bolt hole face on the crank to the level of that raised center section. Neither one is attractive. How did everyone else solve this problem?
About the crank spacer--I welded a pushrod to it and just walked it out but I sure theres a million ways to get it out.Anyway it does have to come out for a 5spd flywheel.
The timing belt is from a 94 galant-part # md182292 and you might want to check on the timing cover from the same car as the 63 one comes up short on the top side.
As far as the knock sensor hole goes-you can either drill and tap it or weld a nut on top of the spot thats there.
One other thing and this is for anyone doing a balance shaft delete.Mitsu has this spacer available that lets you get rid of the balance shaft pulley on the crank.Part # md128107,costs like $6.
It comes out. My favorite method is using a bfh and a screwdriver. I have also pulled this pressed in piece with a vice grip pliers. Have fun while doing it. Put on a batman costume or something it makes it more enjoyable.
Ok, problem solved. Thanks for the help...that piece was removable, but it definitely was a PITA. No Batman costume was required, but I did play some Metallica rather loud while I was working on it So my flywheel is the correct one, and I have it and my clutch installed now...should be able to put the engine in the car this weekend!
Simple and easy trick for that 'pilot' or 'input shaft' bearing thing is to stuff in wet toilet paper, and then find a blank rod or socket of slightly undersize to fit in, and then hammer it. The wet toilet paper is incompressible and will force out the bearing. 2 minutes.
I had a question, the g64b block is the wide one right? What tranny bolts to that block? it is rwd right? what all is the same for the 4g63 and the g64b? thanks
P.S. I am wanting the rwd for a project front engine fiero drag car. thanks
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little more interesting info. i have a 4g64 wideblock in my garage that bolts up to a starion trans. the mighty max had a wideblock version of the 4g64 that was a 6-bolt block, the 6-bolt 4g63 head slides on the deck good but the holes need to be modded like normal.
the crank and all are the same as reg 4g63 blocks. its a hell of a lot wider then the 63 block. its in classifieds if anyone is interested.
im 95% sure it fits the starion trans. my buddy is on starion boards and people have doen it with other wideblock. people have done it with this block but only reason i say 95% is i havent dont it personally.
little more interesting info. i have a 4g64 wideblock in my garage that bolts up to a starion trans. the mighty max had a wideblock version of the 4g64 that was a 6-bolt block, the 6-bolt 4g63 head slides on the deck good but the holes need to be modded like normal.
the crank and all are the same as reg 4g63 blocks. its a hell of a lot wider then the 63 block. its in classifieds if anyone is interested.
The crank in the 4g63 has an 88mm stroke. The 4g64 and g4cs and g64b cranks all have 100mm strokes.
Hey ive been reading this entire thread and all of you are doing either a g4cs block with a 4g63 head with forged pistons and stuff... Well I noticed Swordfish posted a link to Use our original 4g63 block with the g4cs crank.. This would make it a 2.3L if im correct and then all that would need to be done would be to bore out the block .40 over to get the 2.4L i think... Plus custom Dish pistons to lower the compression.... This way seems cheaper to me just to find a g4cs crank and buy some forged dish pistons to get the compression ratio at 8.7:1 or 9:1.... why isnt anybody going this route??? is there anything wrong besides the fact that you have to machine a bit of the block and bridges of the 4g63 for the rods to clear them????? Let me know becuase i was planning on going this route seeing that already have a g4cs crank and 2 extra 6bolt 4g63 short blocks laying around...
how much do u think a starion tranny could hold up to? I just put a 4.5L v8 in my 85gt pontiac fiero and havent quite got it running yet. I heard that a wideblock will bolt up to a gm tranny too.does anyone know of any truth in that?
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Last edited by !gottadream!; 12-16-2004 at 05:22 PM.
Hey ive been reading this entire thread and all of you are doing either a g4cs block with a 4g63 head with forged pistons and stuff... Well I noticed Swordfish posted a link to Use our original 4g63 block with the g4cs crank.. This would make it a 2.3L if im correct and then all that would need to be done would be to bore out the block .40 over to get the 2.4L i think... Plus custom Dish pistons to lower the compression.... This way seems cheaper to me just to find a g4cs crank and buy some forged dish pistons to get the compression ratio at 8.7:1 or 9:1.... why isnt anybody going this route??? is there anything wrong besides the fact that you have to machine a bit of the block and bridges of the 4g63 for the rods to clear them????? Let me know becuase i was planning on going this route seeing that already have a g4cs crank and 2 extra 6bolt 4g63 short blocks laying around...
Read the title of the thread. You can go that route but you will no longer have a g4cs BLOCK. I started this thread to educate people and make the "rumors" on this site cease and decist. I have built several of these motors and have had nothing but success with them.
Last edited by 2.4 turbo Hyped; 12-18-2004 at 02:31 PM.
how can u tell if its a 100mm crank? i dont know where my crank came from but all i see it say is 4g64 and its a 6bolt? will the machine shop tell me ### size crank it is? i might have read something wrong. the 4g63 is 88mm stroke and the 100mm stroke is 4g64 g64b and gc something. right? im just getting everything straight in my head. im kinda slow
I have had my g4cs running about 3 weeks now and love it. 9:1 gives great off boost performance. running 10 lbs right now. 1st and 2nd gear do nothing but eat tires 3rd gear pulls like a rapped ape. Getting a tune this weekend, that should make a huge difference, seeing as I am running very rich. would not want to make a guess at power but it would run circles around my 2.0 t25 at 15psi. and I have not had a problem with anything on the streets so far.
one guy asked if it would be good for autocross - it would be very good. torque monster.
I know of 2 4g64 that have walked, I would not build one
you're in portland, where do you get a good g4cs block in town for a good price?
I haven't heavily searched but I haven't had any luck either
I got mine right down the street at columbia boulevard auto wreckers. I have bought all of their g4cs blocks (5 of them) . The complete motor was only 275 a piece. They actually end up being free as I sell everything but the bottom end on ebay. Truly a deal if you ask me. Sean
how can u tell if its a 100mm crank? i dont know where my crank came from but all i see it say is 4g64 and its a 6bolt? will the machine shop tell me ### size crank it is? i might have read something wrong. the 4g63 is 88mm stroke and the 100mm stroke is 4g64 g64b and gc something. right? im just getting everything straight in my head. im kinda slow
There is no such thing as a 4g64 6 bolt. A 4g64 is a seven bolt crankwalker. The only 100mm stroke 6 bolts that will work for this setup are g4cs and g64b. Please correct me if I am forgetting something. I only work with the g4cs blocks.
I had a question, the g64b block is the wide one right? What tranny bolts to that block? it is rwd right? what all is the same for the 4g63 and the g64b? thanks
P.S. I am wanting the rwd for a project front engine fiero drag car. thanks
You want to put a Japanese motor in the front of an American mid engined car. I like this guy. There are both narrow and wide block G64Bs. There are both narrow and wide block 4G64s, some are 6 bolt and some 7 bolt. Having fun yet? Do a Google search for G64B, 4G64 etc. and get one of the many application lists like these. And carry a tape measure. http://www.remanufactured.com/Mitsubishi_Engines.htmhttp://www.bestrebuiltengines.com/MITSUBISHI4.htm
There's a place on Marine Drive by the Troutdale Airport called 'rebuilders motor supply' or something similar in the phone book. They had some motors a couple of years ago, cheap too.
Ok, I have the G4CS out of the Sonata. It will bolt up to my 2G AWD tranny with no problem right? I've had it for awhile and I just didn't build it because I feared that it wouldn't. I meant to go on DSMTalk, but as we all know the site's been down.
Next question, all I need is the block and the crank, right? So I can sell everything else then and just use parts from my 4G63? It's a 7 bolt. Everything will still work? I am going to be building a 1G head to go with the block just FYI. I am getting antsy over here. I want to start ordering stuff.
I got mine right down the street at columbia boulevard auto wreckers. I have bought all of their g4cs blocks (5 of them) . The complete motor was only 275 a piece. They actually end up being free as I sell everything but the bottom end on ebay. Truly a deal if you ask me. Sean
I plan to sell all my spare parts off of my g4cs block on ebay as well. What kind of prices were things going for and what is worth and isn't worth putting on ebay? Thanks
=Jason-
Ok, I have the G4CS out of the Sonata. It will bolt up to my 2G AWD tranny with no problem right? I've had it for awhile and I just didn't build it because I feared that it wouldn't. I meant to go on DSMTalk, but as we all know the site's been down.
Next question, all I need is the block and the crank, right? So I can sell everything else then and just use parts from my 4G63? It's a 7 bolt. Everything will still work? I am going to be building a 1G head to go with the block just FYI. I am getting antsy over here. I want to start ordering stuff.
Read the tread. If you use stock 1g or 2g pistons your compresssion ratio will be very high. The stock rods are also a limitation, as they are very weak. If youre going to really utilize the 2.4 (ie 50 or 60 trim...or bigger) the stock rods will break.
How high do you think it's safe to turn a G4CS? I'm looking at 8.5:1 JE's, eagle rods, ARP studs throughout the bottom end, and having the motor balanced. Gonna run a big turbo like an SC61 or maybe even a GT4067, so I wanna decide what A/R housing to run. Do you think a .81 A/R housing would be too much? I know a GT4067 .81 A/R will make 14 pounds of boost by about 6000 on a 1.9 litre honda, so I figure it'll be in the 4500-5000 range on a 2.4?
The g64b block found in the expo vans and the mighty max pickup is set up for a rear wheel drive style transmission. The bell housing on the engine block is too wide for a 4g63 transmission. Is it possible to modify the block to make it work? The answer to this question is yes, but you will have to drill and tap new holes for the dowel pins and bolt holes on the block. It would be much simpler to start with the correct block rather than modify the g64b.
If you have the mechanical skill to tackle a 2.4l stroker, then this sould be cakework. It is worth it since these motors are not easy to find.
sorry to wake the dead
There are both narrow and wide block G64Bs. There are both narrow and wide block 4G64s, some are 6 bolt and some 7 bolt. Having fun yet? Do a Google search for G64B, 4G64 etc. and get one of the many application lists like these. And carry a tape measure. 
