Originally posted by Kheldar how much do u have to mod for the 4g63 head to go on there or is it bolt on?
The 1G head is a bolt on. The only parts that are needed are the 2.4 timing belt and cam gears, which are from the 95-99 Galant. Everything else swaps over from the 2.0 motor, front case and all.
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Originally posted by CursedGSX The 1G head is a bolt on. The only parts that are needed are the 2.4 timing belt and cam gears, which are from the 95-99 Galant. Everything else swaps over from the 2.0 motor, front case and all.
I could be wrong but I beleive there is no such thing as a dohc 95-99 galant that the cam gears will work on on this setup. The cam gears you will need are off of the 94 gs dohc galant. They only made it for 1 year. The head bolts directly on. The cam gears from a 4g63 will work but you have to make marks on both of them 1/2 tooth advanced. Use the new marks to set the engine at tdc.
I installed the motor this weekend. My views on the 1st 100 miles of break in: wow!! This thing hauls up hills in 4th or 5th gear like a tractor! This is the motor I have dreamed of. I am currently running only 8 lbs of boost but will turn the sucker up after I do an oil change (to synthetic) at about 1000 miles. The torque is absolutely astonishing. I see no problems hitting 11s this summer.
I will be upgrading the big 16g after break in (1000 miles) to a garett t3 60-1 rated at 781 cfm compared to the big 16gs 550 cfm. Not even 200 miles on the motor and I have already embarrassed several honda owners! HAHA!! Way too much fun!
Have fun guys. Anyone else need help on this build or has any questions please dont hesitate to post them here!!
Originally posted by Kheldar how much do u have to mod for the 4g63 head to go on there or is it bolt on?
I noticed that the g4cs block doesn't have the 2 little water cooling holes in the top of the block(right above the waterpump) that 4g63 has. The 2.0 dohc head has these holes as well. It appears you didn't drill them on your block, and was wondering if it is a necessary modification. It seems some people say it is and others say it isn't. What is your opinion on drilling them?
Also, for the timing belt cover, do you have to leave the upper cover off do the extra 6mm deck height? Which oil dipstick do you use, the g4cs or the 4g63? Do you have to dent the 4g63 oilpan to clearance the crank on the shallow end? Did you have to lengthen your turbo oil drain return tube? Which oil pump pickup did you use, the unbraced g4cs or the braced one from the 4g63?
Congratulations on getting the motor in, and thanks for sharing your build up with us.
Originally posted by redrkt I noticed that the g4cs block doesn't have the 2 little water cooling holes in the top of the block(right above the waterpump) that 4g63 has. The 2.0 dohc head has these holes as well. It appears you didn't drill them on your block, and was wondering if it is a necessary modification. It seems some people say it is and others say it isn't. What is your opinion on drilling them?
Also, for the timing belt cover, do you have to leave the upper cover off do the extra 6mm deck height? Which oil dipstick do you use, the g4cs or the 4g63? Do you have to dent the 4g63 oilpan to clearance the crank on the shallow end? Did you have to lengthen your turbo oil drain return tube? Which oil pump pickup did you use, the unbraced g4cs or the braced one from the 4g63?
Congratulations on getting the motor in, and thanks for sharing your build up with us.
I didnt drill any holes in the block or the head. The two you are talking about are not necessary. The engine block stays cool without them.
The upper cover will fit. I am not running any timing belt covers on this motor. If you want to use the upper cover only the two bolt holes on the valve cover will line up but it is possible to run it if you would like.
The oil dipstick from the 4g63 works just fine.
The oil pan requires no modification either.
I cut the center section out of the oil return tube and used a small section of high temp hose that seems to work great.
The oil pump pickup from the 4g63 is the one I used.
The g4cs block is the ONLY part of the motor that is different from the 4g63. A timing belt from a dohc 2.4 1990 glant gs and both of the cam gears are the only other thing that is not swapped over from the 4g63. Its a straight forward bolt up. Well worth the mere 1000 dollars or so it cost me to build this motor. Regards, Sean
I didnt drill any holes in the block or the head. The two you are talking about are not necessary. The engine block stays cool without them.
About the cooling holes, i'm a little more worried about them affecting the cooling of the head than the block, especially since there on the end of #1 cylinder which seems to be one of the hottest running cylinders. The g4cs head doesn't have them, which is probably why the g4cs block doesn't either, but the 2.0 DOHC head and 4g63 block does have them from the factory. It seems like Mitsu wouldn't have put them there if they weren't needed to aid in the cooling of the DOHC head, but who knows.
Also, i was curious what your oil pressure is like with the B/S eliminated along with the g4cs not having any oil squirters, and what kind of rod/ main bearings did you use?
Quote:
The oil pump pickup from the 4g63 is the one I used.
Did you swap the 1 stud and nut combination from the 4g63 that it uses to bolt the brace down for the pickup, or did you just use the main bolt from the g4cs to bolt it down? I take it there aren't any clearance issues with the crank and oil pickup brace. Sorry for all the questions, i'm just curious about these little differences, and want to make sure i get it right the first time. Thanks again.
Originally posted by redrkt Thanks alot for the info.
About the cooling holes, i'm a little more worried about them affecting the cooling of the head than the block, especially since there on the end of #1 cylinder which seems to be one of the hottest running cylinders. The g4cs head doesn't have them, which is probably why the g4cs block doesn't either, but the 2.0 DOHC head and 4g63 block does have them from the factory. It seems like Mitsu wouldn't have put them there if they weren't needed to aid in the cooling of the DOHC head, but who knows.
Also, i was curious what your oil pressure is like with the B/S eliminated along with the g4cs not having any oil squirters, and what kind of rod/ main bearings did you use?
Did you swap the 1 stud and nut combination from the 4g63 that it uses to bolt the brace down for the pickup, or did you just use the main bolt from the g4cs to bolt it down? I take it there aren't any clearance issues with the crank and oil pickup brace. Sorry for all the questions, i'm just curious about these little differences, and want to make sure i get it right the first time. Thanks again.
No one I know that uses the g4cs block has drilled those holes. They are useless as far as Im concerned.
My oil pressure is at about 100 psi while cruising and about 25 at idle.
The only thing holding the pickup in place is the two bolts on the oil pump itself. There is no need for the 3rd bolt. You can even cut the arm off if you so desire. Not a single clearance issue here.
I am using king race bearings on my rods and my mains. Theres a guy on ebay that sells them. The clearances on them tend to be a little on the tight side but I have had no problems yet (knock on wood).
Whats your compression in that motor? How does it pull when its not on boost. What kind of power do you think you are getting at 8psi?
I'm looking for a rallyX motor and the stock 4g63 really has no power when its not on boost. I need lowend 1500rpm-3500rpm torque more then horsepower.
Originally posted by mazdamx6pwr.com Whats your compression in that motor? How does it pull when its not on boost. What kind of power do you think you are getting at 8psi?
I'm looking for a rallyX motor and the stock 4g63 really has no power when its not on boost. I need lowend 1500rpm-3500rpm torque more then horsepower.
Adam
I did a compression check on all four cylinders this weekend. I got 175-180 psi on every cylinder. I think that equals out to 8.7:1 compression. Knock is very easy to control thanks to the anti detonation grooves in the pistons.
It goes into boost very quickly when you mash the throttle. THE LOW END IS VERY POWERFUL. It will pull up pretty steep hills at about 2000 rpm in 4th and even 5th gear. I would say this would be a great motor for rally racing. It is hardly ever in vacuum but maybe thats just the way I drive. hehe!! Regards, Sean
Could you please make a list of the things you needed to build this motor, or any g4cs motor for that matter. Im building up a g4cs later next summer. I PM'ed you, just in case you didnt know.
This is going to be an expensive build for me, Im also replacing the turbo with a 60trim or similar, getting the tranny rebuilt, and Im modifiying the cylinder head with oversized valves and custom camshafts. Sounds like fun eh?
Could you please make a list of the things you needed to build this motor, or any g4cs motor for that matter. Im building up a g4cs later next summer. I PM'ed you, just in case you didnt know.
This is going to be an expensive build for me, Im also replacing the turbo with a 60trim or similar, getting the tranny rebuilt, and Im modifiying the cylinder head with oversized valves and custom camshafts. Sounds like fun eh?
I know you directed this question to someone else, but I am just finishing my G4CS build too and can tell you what I did. I had a 4G63 motor, and purchased a G4CS shortblock with the Eagle rods and Wiseco pistons talked about in this thread. Aside from that, EVERYTHING from my 4G63 transferred over with the following exceptions: I bought adjustable cam gears, and a timing belt for a 2.4L engine. I also bought a lot of additional mods that say they are for the 4G63, but everything works just fine on the G4CS. Even the gasket set from the 4G63 worked for me. I did modify my oil pickup tube because the support brace didn't work with the ARP hardware.
Hey 2.4 turbo hyped, do you think you could read through my thread found here : Detailed 2.4 4G63 stroker Info needed and answer any questions that you know the answer too....i'd really appreciate it..ill be pickin up the block mentioned in the last post asap, and starting this project at the end of the month.
If you could pm me with any things that you had go wrong, or any tips for my project i'd really appreciate that as well.
Does EVERYTHING else from the 4g63 bold on to the 4GCS?... timiing belt tensioner? etc.
Im pretty sure he means the latter. Since you can use stock rods and pistons if you choose to.....but then again the stock rods arent very strong, AND the stock pistons would raise the compression VERY HIGH and possibly destroy your motor ( I think)....
You use a stock 1g head, it will bolt right onto the block.
Is 2.4 turbo hyped gone? Or where is he....could someone else who's done this swap please read my post. I mentioned it in my post on the last page...i just need to know if EV EVERYTHING bolts up off the 4g63..and other things mentioned in that thread.
You can buy EVERYTHING else, besides the timing belt and cam gears, for a 4G63. That means the timing belt tensioner, oil pan, oil pump, idler pulleys, brackets, enigne mounts, etc. etc. etc. I know this, because I have done it.
The g4cs block is the ONLY part of the motor that is different from the 4g63. A timing belt from a dohc 2.4 1990 glant gs and both of the cam gears are the only other thing that is not swapped over from the 4g63. Its a straight forward bolt up. Well worth the mere 1000 dollars or so it cost me to build this motor. Regards, Sean
I just wanted to clarify one point here...I just called the Mitsubishi dealer to order a timing belt for my G4CS beast and they said there is no such thing as a 1990 Galant with a DOHC 2.4L engine. They told me the correct timing belt to order is from a 1994 Galant GS, which apparently is the only model Galant that came with a DOHC 2.4L engine. He had about 9 other timing belt options for Galants, but they were all for SOHC engines.
