Well heres the build:
2.4 G4CS block
MAGNUS Billet Crank which turned out to be a K1 crank
R&R 156mm Rods which were supposed to be MAGNUS rods
Ross .020 over pistons which are going to have swain tech coating
ACL berrings
Kiggly main girddle
JAM CNC head, cometic head gasket
ARP main and head studs
Fliudampner
Now i have to make a call to argue about the same sht all over again
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R&R aluminum rods? Sounds like you got your self a race motor there. Im sure some guys will say "why you building such a extreme motor if your not gonna beat it"? But who cares, if you got the money build it so you dont have to worry about it.
I may like to say a suggestion. You can run a felpro permatorque mls headgasket on a 2.4 block. It alittle smaller bore size since its for a 4g63, but not enough to create an issue. Also arps will do, but L19s will be the best way to go.
R&R aluminum rods? Sounds like you got your self a race motor there. Im sure some guys will say "why you building such a extreme motor if your not gonna beat it"? But who cares, if you got the money build it so you dont have to worry about it.
I may like to say a suggestion. You can run a felpro permatorque mls headgasket on a 2.4 block. It alittle smaller bore size since its for a 4g63, but not enough to create an issue. Also arps will do, but L19s will be the best way to go.
They were supposed to be AL rods but I received steel rods instead. When I asked pete about this he stated that the steel rods were better for my aplication and were stronger. I also suggested the Felpro HG but JAM stated that the cometic gasket is special ordered to fit the .020 overbore so I will not have any sealing issues. Trust me I am going to beat on this motor but not like a full blown race motor. My goal is 500hp on pump and 700hp on the spray and race gas.
Oil squirter's would be a good thing to help keep the oil pressure down but the balance shafts are pointless on a built motor. I don't have either one and have had my motor for a couple of years now. I had to port the hell out of the oil filter housing to get my oil pressure in check.
G4CS block
8.8:1 Weisco pistons .20 over for the 4G64
Eagle Rods for the 4G63
ACL Race Bearings
Cometic MLS headgasket
Kiggly main griddle
regular ARP head studs
trying to keep it simple for 500whp, my goal with a holset was 450whp but i passed that a long time ago.
Can't wait till my Bosch 044 comes in, then I'll be able to turn the boost up to 35-40
my AFR's on that pass were 12.5:1 and went to 13.4:1 at the top!!!!!! No knock, and 15 degrees of timing...
Here are some updated pics, since i never update my pictures or times heh...
They were supposed to be AL rods but I received steel rods instead. When I asked pete about this he stated that the steel rods were better for my aplication and were stronger. I also suggested the Felpro HG but JAM stated that the cometic gasket is special ordered to fit the .020 overbore so I will not have any sealing issues. Trust me I am going to beat on this motor but not like a full blown race motor. My goal is 500hp on pump and 700hp on the spray and race gas.
I wouldnt say the steel rods are stronger by any means. Plus they beat up the bearings especially in a 2.4 (ofcourse when your making 800+hp) which I know your not concerned with.
I had a cometic and it pushed coolant like crazy. Im acually running a non o ringed head right now with a FELPRO lol. No issues ever, but im getting a head o-ringed, and slapping on a felpro mls or just a composite, have to see when the time comes.
You can run a factory mls head gasket also on the 2.4 block. A good friend of mine suggests it, and hes been putting down some deep 9 sec passes for years in dsms, and his evo is going to take out some big heads at the shoot out this year in englishtown.
hey Matt, what were you saying about the Eagle ARP rodbolts? does eagle give the wrong torque specs?
Yes, they say on the instructions to torque to 75ft-lbs for the 6bolt arp 2000 rod bolts, when you get a set of rods from them. . .
I talked to Kiggly and he recommended 43-45 ft-bs if you don't have a stretch gauge ! I already over stretched at least one of my rodbolts before I realized.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
I wouldnt say the steel rods are stronger by any means. Plus they beat up the bearings especially in a 2.4 (ofcourse when your making 800+hp) which I know your not concerned with.
If you knew the sht I had to deal with just to get the parts that I did.
I'm getting my parts gathered up to stroke my 4g63 to a 2.3. I've got my 2.4 crank, .20 over wiseco pistons and eagle rods.
Questions: I want a Kevlar timing belt, but can't find one for a 2.4... I've heard of a few people putting a 4g63 belt on and it worked, just was really tight. Anyone have input on this? Extreme Psi is having a sale on Greddy timing belts for $129.. don't want to pass that up!
Also.. I messed up and bought my Cometic headgasket standard size. Can I work with this?
It sounds to me you're stroking your 4G63 to a 2.3L using a 2.4L crank of either 6 or 7-bolt variety, std length 150mm Eagle Rods and .020" Oversized Wiseco Pistons.
If you are indeed using a 4G63 block, then any Kevlar 4G63 T-Belt will work.
Oh, and BTW, .20 is not correct, that's almost a 1/4".
I think you mean .020" oversized Wiseco Pistons.
The only reason anyone would need to use a 2.4L T-Belt is when they are using a 2.4L block which is 6mm taller than a 2.0L 4G63 block...
Check and make sure the Cometic Headgasket you got is for 85.5mm if so, then that'll work for your .020" over Wiseco Pistons.
If it's the stock bore diameter of 85mm, you'll have to sell that to someone and pick one up with the correct bore diameter.
Cool, just checked and it is the 85.5, very awesome, I was worried about that. I'm getting my timing belt now, before some other idiot tries to steal my paypal balance. Thank you.
In order to get 2.3L out of the 4G63/2.4L combo, you need to bore the block .040". Otherwise you only have a 2.270cc motor. Boring it out .040" gives you 2378cc.
I know this post is like 5yrs old.
I'd like to correct this imformation for anyone doing a search.
A 4G63 bored .020" over and using a 100mm crank will yield a displacement of 2.296L, not 2.27L.
Convert the dimensions to cm.
pi*(bore/2)^2*stroke*# of cyl = displacement in cc's.
pi*(8.55cm/2)^2*10cm*4 = 2296cc's or 2.296L.
Here's my "budget" 10-second slip stroker build...(budget anything on this damn car, lol)
7 bolt '98 block
Wiseco 9:1
Scat rods
Brand new OEM 64 crank
OEM HG
ARP's
ACL race bearings
OEM main bolts
Ported head
BC springs
Unknown cams (thinking 280's)
AEM cam gears
Holset H1E with .55 housing
Forward facing filter housing to fit a side exit exit exhaust
Built auto trans
Nitrous dry to stall the converter
meth-injection
E-85
What would be my weak link in this build? Also, what are some preferred choices ofr cams in the 2.3? I've ordered pretty much everything except for cams. I didn't want to do the FP3x's because I didn't want to change out my BC springs.
What intake? A stroker needs to breath and by that without an intake, cams its pointless. Last time I checked FP's site the FP3 cams were no longer available anyway. So its either HKS or Crower or FP4's which are recomended for the 2.3 or 2.4 motor. And if your going that route springs are needed.
Sorry, I have a 1g head with a 1g race JMF SMIM. WHy do you say BC sucks? I've hears that many times, but never found any proof that the stuff sucks, just people saying that. I was thinking of picking up some 280's from BC just because they're cheaper.
Yes, they say on the instructions to torque to 75ft-lbs for the 6bolt arp 2000 rod bolts, when you get a set of rods from them. . .
I talked to Kiggly and he recommended 43-45 ft-bs if you don't have a stretch gauge ! I already over stretched at least one of my rodbolts before I realized.
Crap, I'm building a motor with Manley rods and they come with ARP 2000 bolts I believe. The paperwork said to torque them 55-65 ft lbs. I torqued them to 60 ft lbs. I didn't have a stretch gauge to check. I don't know what the specs were on each bolt before I torqued them, so now what do I do? I could get a stretch gauge, but I don't think it will do me any good now.
Alright, but how do I know if the bolt has already been stretched? I could go to the low spec, but won't eventually the rod bolt spin off since there will be less of a clamp due to the stretched bolt (if it is stretched)?
The arp rod bond instructions that I got, when I bought the 2bolts to replace the ones I torqued to 75ftlbs saiys that if you don't have a stretch gauge to torque to 45ftlbs and losten and retorque for 4 times. So in your case I don't know. . . If you gauge them and they are within spec, then they should be fine. . .
Quote:
Originally Posted by 420a-t
Sorry, I have a 1g head with a 1g race JMF SMIM. WHy do you say BC sucks? I've hears that many times, but never found any proof that the stuff sucks, just people saying that. I was thinking of picking up some 280's from BC just because they're cheaper.
Anyone who doesn't site evidence or strong logical reasoning likely has none. So don't even bother wondering why they said it.
____________________________
Matt
dd '90 GST, Holset H1C
^^^Good point Matt, thank you. I also have a question around my 2g ported mani and my bolt-on .55ar housing for my H1E. Would that restrict airflow so much for this stroker that I should upgrade them? What point would this be a choke point on a 2.3?
When people are building these motors, are you using long rod or stock rod length? It looks like there are a couple of options out there when building these motors and I don't know what the options are. So far a 150mm 156mm and a 162mm? I would think it would best to try to get the better of the R/S ratios when building this motor.
What have people been reving their cars with the 1.5 ratio
it just seems like that needs a little more discussion here on this page
Another minor question that I am seeing is the cylinder heads that people are using but I could have miss read that. Are people using a 1g or a 2g (this has probably been talked to death on a 2.0L but saw that a couple were using 2g heads on 2.4L but didn't seem right... a 1g head would have better flowing ports but a 2g head is really close to just an evo head conserning port size)
One last question is that, I have both a 4g64I(mitsubishi expo) and a g4cs (hyundai) sitting in my garage. They are pretty much the same block correct? It just seems like everyone uses the g4cs but the 4g64 are plentiful out there in the 6 bolt form. Is there something special about the hyundai block that I don't know about. I haven't taken a really close look.
When people are building these motors, are you using long rod or stock rod length? It looks like there are a couple of options out there when building these motors and I don't know what the options are. So far a 150mm 156mm and a 162mm? I would think it would best to try to get the better of the R/S ratios when building this motor.
What have people been reving their cars with the 1.5 ratio
it just seems like that needs a little more discussion here on this page
Another minor question that I am seeing is the cylinder heads that people are using but I could have miss read that. Are people using a 1g or a 2g (this has probably been talked to death on a 2.0L but saw that a couple were using 2g heads on 2.4L but didn't seem right... a 1g head would have better flowing ports but a 2g head is really close to just an evo head conserning port size)
One last question is that, I have both a 4g64I(mitsubishi expo) and a g4cs (hyundai) sitting in my garage. They are pretty much the same block correct? It just seems like everyone uses the g4cs but the 4g64 are plentiful out there in the 6 bolt form. Is there something special about the hyundai block that I don't know about. I haven't taken a really close look.
I'm using the 156mm rods from MAGNUS (which are R&R rods) for the better ratio and less stress on the piston skirts.
I'm going with a 2g head but its being CNC ported I went with it for several reasons one being able to keep the 2g CAS (not that rewiring a 1g is that hard) and 2 the 2g head has a thicker deck than the 1g. Now as far as preference between a 6 bolt and seven its kind of a gray area. I've read that the 6bolt blocks have a higher nickel content that the seven bolts making them stronger. But the seven bolts have a factory main girdle that is stronger than the six's individual main caps. This really doesn't matter if your not going north of 500hp. As long as you go with a seven bolt that has the 3 piece thrust bering (98 and on) you should not have any crankwalk issues. And no theres no difference between the g4sc and the 4g64 blocks.
I'm using the 156mm rods from MAGNUS (which are R&R rods) for the better ratio and less stress on the piston skirts.
I'm going with a 2g head but its being CNC ported I went with it for several reasons one being able to keep the 2g CAS (not that rewiring a 1g is that hard) and 2 the 2g head has a thicker deck than the 1g. Now as far as preference between a 6 bolt and seven its kind of a gray area. I've read that the 6bolt blocks have a higher nickel content that the seven bolts making them stronger. But the seven bolts have a factory main girdle that is stronger than the six's individual main caps. This really doesn't matter if your not going north of 500hp. As long as you go with a seven bolt that has the 3 piece thrust bering (98 and on) you should not have any crankwalk issues. And no theres no difference between the g4sc and the 4g64 blocks.
FYI, the 2gb CAS bolts right on to a 1g head.
The 2g is superior in design over the 1g in terms of the heads. Out of the box, the 1g heads flow more, but when both are ported, the 2g takes the cake.
When I asked pete about this he stated that the steel rods were better for my aplication and were stronger. I also suggested the Felpro HG but JAM stated that the cometic gasket is special ordered to fit the .020 overbore so I will not have any sealing issues. Trust me I am going to beat on this motor but not like a full blown race motor. My goal is 500hp on pump and 700hp on the spray and race gas.
. This is my dream 2g look.
! I already over stretched at least one of my rodbolts before I realized.
