Interesting to fish for filings instead of using Brad Bauer's method of drilling and tapping with the engine running. Has anyone ever just put compressed air to the tailpipe and blown the chips out while cutting and tapping? I'd use a rag stuffed against the compressor turbine to keep it from spinning, and block the wastegate open with vise-grips.

For cutting the threads, I would use axle grease instead of white, I think it might hold chips better.

I don't expect that thread tape to last any time at all. If you were going for a gas seal, there's a muffler patch putty that'd probably hold up better.

Otherwise, excellent article.

Looks good Chris...I think all those pictures will really help people when attempting the install.

Some of the stuff Defiant pointed out I wouldn't have even noticed.

Except taking out the metal bits with a screw driver...I would just use a vaccum...but that part isn't a huge deal...once you turn the car on, all those bits would be out the exhuast in no time...as long as you didn't have a cat. hehe

But yeh, it will help a lot of people

Excellent article, everything more clear than the one on v###. I just have one question. I'm using the same exact center vent pod as you have shown, how do you secure it to the vent? Glue maybe?

Thanks.
Bruce

a little tip for those who are doing the tap with the motor running... use quality drill bits!! as I was stepping up each size, it took me three bits(wasn't paying attention as I was switching bits), to realize i was literally melting off the first 1/4" of each bit from the manifold temp. Switched to my good set of bits and it was a peice a cake... just some fyi

Originally posted by oldman
I just have one question. I'm using the same exact center vent pod as you have shown, how do you secure it to the vent? Glue maybe?

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Bruce, I actually had to do a great deal of cutting and filing to get the gauges to fit, but they actually fit tight enough to where I didn't need to do anything to keep them fastened. Just pushed them in and they stay. I did use a single wrap of electrical tape around the gauge, just behind the bezel in order to tighten the fit into the vent pod. No glue at all.

Originally posted by Defiant
Interesting to fish for filings instead of using Brad Bauer's method of drilling and tapping with the engine running. Has anyone ever just put compressed air to the tailpipe and blown the chips out while cutting and tapping? I'd use a rag stuffed against the compressor turbine to keep it from spinning, and block the wastegate open with vise-grips.

For cutting the threads, I would use axle grease instead of white, I think it might hold chips better.

I don't expect that thread tape to last any time at all. If you were going for a gas seal, there's a muffler patch putty that'd probably hold up better.

Otherwise, excellent article.

Click to expand...

You might be right about the grease - I used what I had, but it worked pretty well. I figured that the chips that were left in the exhaust were actually quite small and would likely just get pushed out through the exhaust anyway. I decided not to run the engine.

Originally posted by Ludachris
Bruce, I actually had to do a great deal of cutting and filing to get the gauges to fit, but they actually fit tight enough to where I didn't need to do anything to keep them fastened. Just pushed them in and they stay. I did use a single wrap of electrical tape around the gauge, just behind the bezel in order to tighten the fit into the vent pod. No glue at all.

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Chris, I installed the bazel today and fit pretty well like you said. However it looks very messy. I'm probably going to move the EGT to a dual pilar pod with my boost gauge and move A/F to radio bazel next to AFC. Thanks for the reply.

Originally posted by Ludachris
I figured that the chips that were left in the exhaust were actually quite small and would likely just get pushed out through the exhaust anyway.

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Just between you and me, you're right. I know because the exhaust manifold on my 200SX Turbo likes to melt its inner divider and shed bits of slag into the exhaust turbine- to the point that it'll actually lock it up with chunks between the housing and blades. I've cleared them in the past by turning the compressor side back-and-forth until I could hear them rattle out. I don't know how it lived through it, but a few little drill or tap shavings aren't going to hurt at thing.

Great article! However, in regards to the heat shield I would make drilling the heat shield first and enough to scour the exhaust manifold to have a reference point (with careful measurements). That way you wouldn't need to have as big of a hole on the heat shield or having to eyeball it/guesstimate.

Awsome article luda. Definately very informative. Have you considered submitting that to vfaq to see if they would like to put it up on their site too that way they have a better walkthrough of the process?

The "standard" logic for tapping #1 on a DSM is that it is the farthest along the fuel rail, so it would seem to be the most likely to go lean. However, I've seen many reports that #2 is actually more likely to run the hottest, so this is now the suggested runner to tap.

Comments? Explanations?

- Jtoby

I just took the manifold off my car. It seemed to be much easier for me compared to a friend's car I did.

Originally posted by jtmcinder
The "standard" logic for tapping #1 on a DSM is that it is the farthest along the fuel rail, so it would seem to be the most likely to go lean. However, I've seen many reports that #2 is actually more likely to run the hottest, so this is now the suggested runner to tap.

Comments? Explanations?

- Jtoby

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I've heard stories back and forth. I decided to go with the #1.

any mechanic will tell you that ANY metal going through your turbo will potentially KILL it. it's just like putting on a head, or an intake manifold, you plug the holes so nothing gets into the engine. ANY METAL SHAVINGS ANYWHERE IN THE ENTIRE ENGINE/TURBO IS BAD! I've seen a small piece of dirt shred a turbine before. Everyone really should remove the exhaust manifold when doing any drilling, filing or tapping on it.

Very nice and informative write up! I will be using this for sure when I install my EGT. Thanks!

You're missing a valve cover bolt

Nice job Chris. I just had Buschur tap mine for me. :laugh:

nice man. im gettin 1g in awhile. anyone got a link for that nice vent guage bezel? i really like that. thanks

ryan

fr33b1rth said:

any mechanic will tell you that ANY metal going through your turbo will potentially KILL it. it's just like putting on a head, or an intake manifold, you plug the holes so nothing gets into the engine. ANY METAL SHAVINGS ANYWHERE IN THE ENTIRE ENGINE/TURBO IS BAD! I've seen a small piece of dirt shred a turbine before. Everyone really should remove the exhaust manifold when doing any drilling, filing or tapping on it.

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I highly doubt that a small piece of dirt "shredded" the turbine, considering the metal is much harder than that piece of dirt (depending on what it is I guess). I drilled mine with the manifold on the car and the engine idling, as has almost everyone else I know. Nothing catastrophic happened.

RamenPride said:

I drilled mine with the manifold on the car and the engine idling, as has almost everyone else I know. Nothing catastrophic happened.

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why would you do it any other way than this...it is blowing out 99% of the crap as your drilling and tapping.


jim

I know this is a old thread but I need a picture of how the wires come off of the electronic part that goes to the probe part... which wires go in which holes because my connector got cut off and I can't find anywhere which wires go in which spots of the electronic EGT hold peak by Greddy...

Pic's of the wiring to the gauge and electronic hold/peak box part would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks again for the article and this Web site.

I wanted to ask you what size of drill did you use? 1/4"? But that is for the Greddy, right?
What is the size for the autometer? 1/8"?
I am planning on do it for my car and I used the clamp but doesn't hold really well (It leaks) so I decided to tap a hole.
I believe the size for a Auto meter is 1/8" NPT is that correct?
So I need to get a drill of 1/8" and tap of the same size?
Thanks in advance

titogs95 said:

I believe the size for a Auto meter is 1/8" NPT is that correct?
So I need to get a drill of 1/8" and tap of the same size?

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Pipe is measured on the inside, because what plumbers care about is the size of the water passage. The tap will have the drill size engraved on it, and it'll be about 1/4" if not exactly.

11/32" will do, .3390 in to be exact. http://www.korit.com/tapndrill.htm